I don't know anything about the clutch pedal or how to adjust it. Lately I have had to turn the engine off to get it to go into any gear when stopped. Has happened yesterday and today now. It's been flawless up till now so I think it just needs to be tightened up, but how do I do this? Do I just need to bleed it?

Yeah I got the upgraded one. The guy who sent me to a place that knew how to turn my timing up is a valair dealer, he said $175 for a 400/900 clutch and new bearings. I thought it was going to cost me over $500, I'm not very good at pricing things Since I got all this time on my hands, think I am going to krylon the trans. Maybe not the aluminum parts, hmm maybe I should. Here's pics of before and after just power washing. I'm going to polish it up until I see my face in it today.

Lucky.. Darn 2WD truck have all the luck... Try that with a 4WD and transfer case hanging off it... Polish it??? Are you nuts??? Nobody is going to see it...

Lucky..

Darn 2WD truck have all the luck... Try that with a 4WD and transfer case hanging off it...

Polish it??? Are you nuts??? Nobody is going to see it...

Man I was sooooo close to saying something sarcastic about it being a 2wd Still took me 2 or 3 hours, but of course I do all this alone so I have nobody to tell me to hurry up You do have some luck though. I think I took my fords trans out without having to jack the truck up until I had to roll the trans out from under it. Not sure if 4x4 dodges sit that high. Most of my problem was getting to things around that 5" exhaust, it is pretty well butted up against the frame and side of the trans.

Yeah it didn't exactly polish up. Perfectly clean though. The only engine paint I have is either red or orange. So I guess it will be whichever of those I have.

Only after I got done and began to wonder, did I look at the can and read off "Chevy Orange" :banghead:

I take off so slow I could top off a glass of water and not spill a drop. I figured it had something to do with being a shock absorbing thing but just don't see how it could happen to me when I accelerate so slow. I might floor it in 4th or 5th but there is no jerkiness to that.

Is this the same ISX that took me for a ride in puff of black smoke that threatened to bring that small down down on its knees with all the grocery/food stores closing for the day ??? *joke* I do like the orange - might earn you a few extra $$ if you sell it to a Florida guy one day Gonna get some pink for mine .......... ..... delayed to friday ....... Hope you get it fixed - only understood half of that - just caught up on all the lingo of an automatic internals, one day might have to learn the manuals also ...... man oh man:cookoo:

I look at the can and read off "Chevy Orange" :banghead:

Gonna get some pink for mine ..........

I think you both have lost your minds...

Only bad part is, now the rest of the truck needs to be painted. That engine paint says something about 7 days to completely dry, though dry to the touch in half an hour. I don't know why it takes 7 days but my trans has been hanging on the cherry picker for almost 2 weeks now, so it should be good and dry. I guess I could have taken the engine out and done the same but it would be nice to have it out for like a month to take everything off individually and paint it. The trans was a piece of cake to paint. If you spray it down with degreaser or something, all the mud and grease just falls off with the power washer. Then I just took the air hose to it to dry it really quick and start painting. It really does look amazing. Just have no idea what color to make the engine. I'll be damned if I am going to paint it chevy orange

Got the beast in, 4 days after ordering it. I'll try and be nice to it

nice

are you sure that old one wasn't a stock? i know you said that it was a SBC...but like i said before....

I have the box for the SBC and everything, I put it in. The stock one wouldn't hold it at all.Alright heres some proof.The stock clutch is 12 1/4", the other two are 13" upgrades.

is the new on a valair or SBC? which one of the SBC is the broken one(i don't wanna buy that one). are you using stock or upgraded hydraulics?you have more broken clutches and tape measures than me:lmao2:i was gonna snap a pic of my accord and rangers clutches...only one tape:banghead:

I got the second one down (NMU70279-01) on here.

Stock hydraulics, well new stock hydraulics now

I will go look at the box today sometime, south bend has so many on their site I am not sure which one it is. I know it's Con O but that doesn't seem to be specific enough.

I have maybe 4 more tapes than that Had to keep changing because the camera glared on the newer ones.

The south bend one is the only broke one, the stock one is fine, I have the pressure plate and flywheel for the stock one still, stashed away. It just wouldn't hold the power at all. The turbo would light and so would the clutch

---------- Post added at 11:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------

Finallllllly got it back together. I wasn't going to stop til it got done tonight, almost midnight but, I wanted to see it move

Everything is perfect, shifts nice, everything. Little bit different clutch feel, gonna have to break it on for a while and see how it changes.

Took me about 12 hours to put it all back together Think Mike does it in 1/4 the time, maybe less lol. I take my time and make sure everything is perfect 10 times. Took me 40 min to fill the trans from the top, now sure how to get it so it flows down faster than 1 quart every 10 min.

One thing though, I drained all the oil from it from the drivers side, lowest bolt on the PTO, and it drained like an oil pan when I took that one bolt out. I always did it from the passenger side and coulda sworn I had to take all the PTO bolts loose and break the cover loose to get it to drain, and I talked with Guesswho512 who said the same thing when he did it on his passenger side. So next time you guys drain, try the drivers side

What's rather odd in your pictures... The 13" clutches are about 2 wide in friction material and the stock clutch is like 2.5 or a bit more...

I noticed that too. Thinking maybe the stock clutch had a weak pressure plate so they made up for it with surface area. I wonder if the aftermarket clutches have to use a smaller surface area to keep the clutch from grabbing too good.. I mean if it can grip twice as much torque with less material touching, I am thinking if it had the same amount as stock, it would grab unnecessarily hard. Not sure though.

On my neddle bearing it squealed one time and took out the input shaft. Somebody needs there azz kicked for putting junk like that in in the first place

Yeah, the south bend bearing and the new one were both sealed ball bearings. I did see the crappy needles in the stock flywheel the other day. They are not bad, they just run out of grease so fast that they end up rusted and disintegrated. There are a lot more needle bearings than ball bearings in one of them and since they are needles, they have much more surface area. This equates to a very strong bearing, but, if they run out of grease, then you have problems. U-joints are the same way, stockers do not have any grease certs in them, so unless you take the driveshaft off and pack grease in there, they will do the same thing, as mine did last summer.

I am trying to figure out why you would not have contacted Peter@SBC once you had the failed unit out of the truck instead of putting in the Valair junk?.With how SBC stands behind their units a call to him would probably have righted the issue and cost you less than the new unit you bought from the second rate clutch company.

So your going to tell me that something I already bought and already put in and already am happy with, is junk? Did it occur to you that I might have contacted SBC? So lets say I told a guy who just bought a powerstroke, that he just bought junk, even though it gets 20mpg and tows like crazy, you tell him it will break in half by 250k...