My boost elbow threads are loose enough it's tightening up while I drive.... I went to do some testing and saw the drive pressure spike to over 110psi. Needless to say I'd like to make sure it stays in place! Ideas? I've got a couple of my own but I'd like to hear you guys' first. 

off the top of my head... from less ghetto to most ghetto

• get a new boost elbow
• loctite
• staking the boost elbow 
• make a burr on the screw, if it was an interference fit pin I would actually knurl it to raise the surface, but I would do something similar carefully with a set of vise grips to raise up the surface of the threads.  

I've always wondered if I could run a mcmaster carr needle valve in lieu of the boost elbow with some sort of remote in cab adjustment via a cable of some sort. 

Edited February 5, 20169 yr by CSM

Too cheap for a new one  I spent all of my money again! 

I was thinking a dab of loctite on the outside of the threads. Doesn't work so well when you're constantly changing things though.

Staking??

The last one might be the best route for me.

There is a company that makes one but I can't remember the name. I would worry about the delay from all the piping though.

You could try filling in the hole then next to it drill and tap a new hole for the elbow.  I had to take my boost elbow off the other day to put on the stock elbow and found it loose also.  The stock elbow went in with no problem but when I tried to put in the boost elbow back in it didn't feel right.  I taped the hole, I think it's ¼ NPT, and put the boost elbow back in.  If I tightened it down all the way The elbow will be facing the inner fender and not the waste gate actuator.  I backed it off a  ½   turn for now and called it good.

42 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

You could try filling in the hole then next to it drill and tap a new hole for the elbow.  I had to take my boost elbow off the other day to put on the stock elbow and found it loose also.  The stock elbow went in with no problem but when I tried to put in the boost elbow back in it didn't feel right.  I taped the hole, I think it's ¼ NPT, and put the boost elbow back in.  If I tightened it down all the way The elbow will be facing the inner fender and not the waste gate actuator.  I backed it off a  ½   turn for now and called it good.

Thanks for the response! I think I should have specified better in my first post though... I'm having trouble with the little adjustment screw wanting to tighten up on me, not the whole elbow itself. Sorry about that

That's why I love my Edge Products boost elbow. No adjustment and does like it should and provides 35 PSI boost pressure. I've got an adjustable boost elbow in my toolbox but hate that darn thing 1/16 of a turn could change boost 5-10 PSI.

A matter of fact I got to order a boost elbow for the truck in my yard. Edge only wants $10 bucks for the elbow.

Edited February 5, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That's why I love my Edge Products boost elbow. No adjustment and does like it should and provides 35 PSI boost pressure. I've got an adjustable boost elbow in my toolbox but hate that darn thing 1/16 of a turn could change boost 5-10 PSI.

A matter of fact I got to order a boost elbow for the truck in my yard. Edge only wants $10 bucks for the elbow.

 sure makes it hard to tune twins without adjustment though! I bet money my DP would be over a hundred with one of those elbows. 

Does anyone know if they make a barbed needle valve?

I have an edge elbow , I haven't looked at it in awhile 

are there enough threads left when its where you want it that you could put a small nut on it to lock it by backing the nut against the housing

 

 

 

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

 sure makes it hard to tune twins without adjustment though! I bet money my DP would be over a hundred with one of those elbows. 

Does anyone know if they make a barbed needle valve?

Try a fuel tank petcock.

Have you considered a spring gate?  I'm really warming up to them.

Edited February 6, 20169 yr by Cowboy