Hi all,

So I have a new Valair single disc clutch with all new components, and new OE hydros from Napa. I have about 1000 miles on the hydros and 550 on the clutch. Today I noticed that sometimes, as I'm slowly letting up on the clutch pedal, it feels like it is sticking or binding kind of. It is only minor and only when I let the pedal out very slowly, which I normally do, and even then its not all the time. Its like it will just kind of hang up slightly then let go and release more quickly than I want it to. I am sure the clutch and components are installed correctly as I and my dad did it together and we are both pretty competent in this area. We also had the help of a friend who is a lifelong mechanic.  I checked the FSM and didn't find too much except to grease the pedal pivot point. But in the case of binding, it says to replace the hydros. Since they are new maybe I could grease the pushrod? How would I do that? Just smear some synthetic grease on the pushrod and work it in and out? Has anyone else ever experienced this and or found a solution or have any other ideas?

Edited February 23, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

But what I'm confused on is how you move it back without doing the same amount of work as pulling it totally out? I mean you still have to drop both drive shafts, and remove the shift tower, and I would think drop the crossmember?

 

also can you describe what your fork felt like when you moved it by hand? Never mind on this. I was just re reading your post about it on Cummins forum. Mine definitely does not feel how you described yours feeling.

 

on another note, what's your take on the trans tech's theory of a groove on the input shaft retainer? I mean, I think we or the guy that did the trans work would have noticed that, and even if there was something like that, I should have been able to feel it with the old clutch too wouldn't I?

Edited March 3, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

I am the last person who would want to pull the tranny unless there is no other option. I had none, the bearing was gone. I also use an SKF bearing but mine was only about $45. I believe Katooms was a lot more which leads me to believe  there is more than one line of SKF. Since I replaced the old clutch with the SB I will never know how long it would have lasted. Katoom will have to correct me if I am wrong but yes to pull the tranny back is pretty much the same as dropping the tranny except you might see the issue and be able to fix it without getting the tranny completely out of the way and removing the TC.. Some time savings I guess.

Auto zone letting you try the hydros and returning them for a refund if it does not work blows my mind. But if they are willing that is good way to eliminate the hydros as the issue. I would darn sure try them and you can eliminate that as an issue.

That is interesting about your bearing being so much cheaper, was it similar to your old one in construction? Or was it much beefier? Mine was much heavier duty looking but it was closer in cost to Katoom's.

I was shock as well when they told me that, but I have had good luck with their warranties in the past so I figured it was worth asking. I am thinking about pulling the white tip off of the slave on the one from them and replacing it with my current one to avoid breaking the straps incase I do need to return it. Although I really don't understand why they even have that. It's not that hard to install the slave without them...

My other bearing was in pieces and I did not try to compare them. This is the bearing I think I got, a little pricier than I remember but still half the cost.http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,8.0l+v10,1384769,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968. it is the SKF listed.

It would be good to swap the cap and not give them any reason not to take them back. The plastic tip serves another purpose. That is to protect the slave rod from wearing thru the the clutch fork. That metal on metal would not be good. I have pulled my slave a couple times and they are easy to reinstall after the tabs are broken.

Yes that's what I mean. I don't get why they even make it with the tabs. They are almost totally pointless.

I couldn't tell by those Rockauto pictures what bearing was what, nor if was they listed was the same bearing as I purchased.  All I know is the SKF I discussed in that other thread was stout and nothing like the OEM version.

I cant comment on any "grove" in the sleeve either.  Maybe.....maybe not.  I wouldn't think a small grove would do anything but cause a one time hang up when you pressed the clutch pedal.  Not to say that little catch wouldnt be annoying If thats what you're feeling.....

And yes, leaving the transfer case attached still means you have to undo the driveshafts and drop the cross member but leaving it up on the jack and only pulling it back far enough to get in there made the whole event much quicker.  Still a pain though.....

I actually found the bearing I used. still in the bed of the truck from the clutch install. Just looking at the pictures it appears I used a Timken or the National. Their "pictures" are the same if that means anything. Looks very much like the bearing Katoom showed in his pictures on CF next to the SKF. There is a groove around the inside of the bearing. They all appear to have one in the pictures.

hey guys. I just picked up the master and slave assembled from autozone and WOW! The master and slave are made from cast aluminum, not plastic! And, the slave has a BLEEDER SCREW!!!!  I will post comparison pics later but overall this thing looks way better than napa's. My only questions right now are, should the bleeder screw face up or down? And, how do you bleed a clutch that has a bleeder screw??

Its hard to force air to go down so if its possible to set it facing up.....

I bled mine while it was on the truck. I replaced it separately from the rest of the system. I filled it first and then installed it. Had a friend push the clutch in an hold it while I opened the screw.  

I would just put them on and see if it helps. If it is doing the same thing the other one did then it is not the hydros .

                        How to Bleed a Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder

1. Open bleeder screw and yell to friend in truck "OPEN".
2. Friend pushes clutch peddle slowly until it reaches the floor and yells "DOWN".
3. Close bleeder screw and yell to friend "CLOSED".
4. Friend now lets the clutch peddle back up and yells to you "UP".
5. Stop and have a beer. 
6. Repeat 1 thru 5 until there is no more air coming out of the bleeder screw or you are to drunk to continue.

                                                                   

      Bleeder screws are at the top of any cylinder you are bleeding..

Thanks! I bled it before installing the unit in the same way you would one without a bleeder screw so hopefully all is good now but we'll see.

Hey everyone, 

I got lucky for once! My problem was caused by the hydraulics! So far the new set from auto zone seems to be working great. I like the feel of the pedal a lot better too. I also have a little free play at the top now too which I am very happy with. Below are the pictures of the new slave and master from auto zone. I apologize for not thinking ahead enough to take a side by side comparison. At least you can see the construction and the bleeder screw. Also, just to be clear, I am not doing this to put Napa down at all. In general I prefer to deal with them over places like auto zone and advance auto parts. However, there are some instances where I like auto zone better for their parts or their polices. This is one case where I think you get a better product and a better warranty from auto zone. However, I do have to give Napa credit for making at least there master cylinder in the USA. I didn't see a stamp on the one from auto zone, but the box said made in china. While that disappointed me a little bit, I am over all happier with auto zone for this part. Time will tell how it holds up I guess. 

Master from auto zone

Slave from auto zone 

Master from Napa

Slave from Napa

Great to hear that it was a quick success and thanks for the pics. 

  On 3/8/2016 at 12:01 AM, leathermaneod said:

but the box said made in china.

Some times you have to go with what works.

Well finally.....

Glad you did not have to pull the tranny. Let us know how your visit with napa goes.

I actually already went to Napa. They took the hydros back with not argument. I told them the situation and they made no mention of getting them tested before giving my money back. I also told them about the construction of the hydros from auto zone and suggested that they try and get some like that as well. The guy was upset that I didn't have the original box for him to send them back in. I told him I was sorry, but obviously I didn't plan to return them when I bought and installed them. Thanks everyone for all the help! For anyone who is interested, the article on the pedal bushing replacement is finished and pending approval.

Glad to hear that went well. Maybe you should have put them back in Auto Zone box.

 

  On 3/8/2016 at 2:19 AM, dripley said:

Glad to hear that went well. Maybe you should have put them back in Auto Zone box.

lol believe it or not that is exactly what I did. Problem was, the set from Napa came in a huge box that allowed for the plastic tubing to not be bent at all. The set from autozone came in a much smaller box that had the tubing coiled up kind of.