I'm sure this has been covered somewhere but I have looked for quite sometime and can't find the exact answer I'm looking for. I have had an intermittent "pop" when turning the steering wheel left or right. I dropped the steering column down last week to remove the dash and replace the heater core and it has since gotten worse. Before you could feel it in the wheel when it made its popping noise but now the sensation is more pronounced. I have replaced most of my steering components in the truck already and with it becoming worse after dropping the steering column I'm lead to think it must be in the column itself. Any ideas? The truck is a 01' 2500 4wd six speed manual. New parts include ball joints, adjustable track bar, tie rods and ends, and steering shaft.  

did you replace your u joints?  

 

Any clicking noise when driving in a tunnel or next to a wall?

I have replaced the rear and the drive shaft as well. I don't notice anything going down the road other than it still wanders more then I would like. Noise happens only when turning.

Did you replace the front u joints? 

No i haven't. 

I would check those first. 

then check your unit bearings.   Jack the truck up and see if you have play in the bearings.

 

 

It could be in the column itself but I would lean more towards the ujoints or bearing first.  

 

Edited March 1, 20169 yr by Me78569

Excuse my ignorance but I assume you are referring to the U-joints at the axle ends and not the front drive shaft. By unit bearings you mean.....?

the ujoint between the hubs and axle shafts. 

 

The unit bearings are what bolt the hubs to the knucles.  

Edited March 1, 20169 yr by Me78569

Thanks for the help. I guess I should have done the u joints when I did ball joints and the hub assembly. I have been debating on what else could be replaced to cut back on the wandering in the front, I figured it was time for a new steering box but I never thought of the u joints.

7 hours ago, mwingert said:

I figured it was time for a new steering box

Saginaw boxes are really easy to rebuild and reseal yourself. While your redoing the box you can readjust everything to make it tight again.

Edited March 2, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

Does it make the popping noise when the truck is at a stand still or in a slow turn.  If at a stand still jack the front end up an turn the steering wheel lock to lock.  If at a slow turn is it left, right or both? Have some one drive the truck in a circle while your out side listening you might be able to narrow it down.  Then again it's a diesel and can't hear anything.   

If you working with someone you trust you can get a 2nd person to slowly turn the steering wheel while your feeling steering components for popping motion. Again its got to be someone you trust and be careful with where you place you hand in moving parts. Must have good communication and do everything slowly.

Sorry guys I was away for a couple days. Thanks for the advise. I cant really tell you if it does it at a stand still because I have almost 35" tires and it doesnt like to turn all the way without moving. It only does it off and on and will do it regardless of speed. The sound has to be coming from inside the cab or just the other side of the fire wall, its almost like a spring winding up and popping. This is not to say that the steering box or maybe other components are wore out, it does have 200k and all the parts are stock except for what I have replaced myself.

Also where is a good place to buy a rebuild kit for the steering box and what is you take on trying to adjust it before rebuilding?

Problem. To do the bearing preload adjustment you have to remove the gearbox from the truck. If you going to remove the gearbox to adjust it you might as well do the rebuild. You can do the sector adjustment (over center adjustment) on the truck which is typically where most play is.

On a different topic, I have been looking at your crankcase vent mod. Would there be a problem with running the same 3/4" heater hose down from front and along the bottom of the engine to the back of the engine, instead of going up and over with the PVC?

It would be a problem it the hose kinked or collapsed and no longer allowed pressure to vent.

Ok, so as long as I installed it properly and kept an eye on it from time to time it should be good? 

Another reason to route it over the top is to prevent oil spilling on steep hills and rapid stops.

The problem, that I see, with using hose is that with time and heat it will break down and become soft.  If it does become restrictive that pressure will find another route and blow a seal or gasket somewhere.

But, if you feel comfortable with the way you install it and monitor it then, yes, it would work.

Edited March 4, 20169 yr by Hawkez

I've been contacted by several people that said, "You told me so..." Don't make any long runs with rubber hose. All it takes is one kink or a plug of ice and it will blow out the tappet gasket or crank seals. Several people thought the same thing. The one I felt sorry for was the one being towed back out of the Alcan Highway which was an expensive tow all just because of wanting to use a rubber hose for vent instead of PVC pipe.

Ok! That is all I need to know. I will be doing it your way! Thank you!

You may want to check the adjusting sleeve for the track bar and make sure it's tight. Also, be sure the track bar connections are tight. That's where I've experienced most of my steering "pops".