Hello every one.

I'm new to this sit and have a 2000 quad cab 2500 4x4 8ft bed, 24v cummins whit automatic transmission I thing it's 4 shifter (sorry i'm new whit this kind of transmission)** & all stock except lift pump which is last week went out and I change it to DRRP02 FASS 110 GPH,other than that untouched truck, anyway, I've to get the RPM over 2k or 22k till shift to the upper and only on the highway goes to 4th and O/D otherwise just only 2 shift. is it normal? I fell engine is under the presser and need the another gear or shift so. In the city with 1500 or 1800 RPM still stays on 2nd shift at 40 to 45 MPH I think is something wrong with it by the way is there any way we can add the one more shift to transmission or not? is any 5 shifter or more is available in the market so we can replace it with this 4 shifter? how much is cost? I knew it maybe the same topic from the other members but I really need your expertise HELP and I need to know what to do as much as I can by myself cause I'm on the very tight budget.

Appreciate for your help.

PS** I'm a semi tractor trailer driver and use to change gears (18-15-13 speed / straghit 10 or supper 10 speed gear box) even my 2000 Honda Accord is 5 speed manual and auto trans is little bit strange for me sorry I don't want to be selfish just want you know my fillings abut the situation.)                   

Edited March 15, 20169 yr by Sam53

If you weren't getting the P0122/P0121 then it could still be possible the VP could be the culprit to your problems. Given the codes you have, I DO NOT think the VP is the problem for you, I think it's the APPS.

 

P0121 = APPS Sensor Volts do not agree idle validation

P0122 = APPS sensor signal voltage too low

 

I would first try and re-calibrate your APPS to see if that will correct the issue and get rid of the codes.

 

Check your voltage on the stock APPS HERE

&

Make sure you reset the APPS as well HERE

 

If none of those procedures fixes your problem then I'd look at getting a Timbo APPS from HERE

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

I DO NOT think the VP is the problem for you, I think it's the APPS.

you make my minds free.

realy realy APPRECIATE. 

Best Regards 

Sam53

I will note that if you find your self doing excessive APPS re-calibrations I would test the alternator for excessive AC noise.

On 4/17/2016 at 7:02 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

test the alternator for excessive AC noise.

Thank You to all family member & friend on Mopar1973Man whom Continuously fallowed & helped me during past several weeks to solve my problem with transmission shifting.last week I end up having problem with APPS low voltage and dead pedal + two codes P0121 & P0122 and the check engine light. first time I check the APPS voltage it was 2.46 (not good)but in the back of my stock USA made sensor recommended volt is .619 (wow) anyhow adjust

it to .580 as suggested by Mr. Nelson, test drive it, on first few miles was good & normal after that light it came back, dead pedal again, wait for minute got acceleration back & drove it home. order Timbo APPS recommended by notlimah. after I ordered saw the link on timbo web page abut trany problem (Timbo Thanks to you too.) fallow it & read the 5 page & fined out, my problem with Lock & Unlocking between shifting is the same as them! and exactly is  

what Mr. Nelson told me yesterday morning, stupid noise of alternator diode spread via ground wire which is black or gray color, going toward the air filter & fire wall causes PCM get confuses trany lock & unlock between shifting.I end up doing old fashion treatment (ALUMINIUM FOIL). wrap ALL the ground wire going toward the PCM & wires coming out of alternator with:       1: cooking foil 2: fixflex heating&cooling aluminium tape 3:electrical tape.check the APPS voltage which was dropped from .580 to .245.re-adjust it to .369 as far as I could get with turning APPS clock wise & idle torque all the way back and loose then re-adjusted to .430 with idle screw right before start accelerating. re-calibrate it same as Mr. Nelson video, re-adjust TV cable and test drive. Thank Goodness on this time I had smoothed and proper shifting I ever had.I hope it last longer other wise I have to buy SPONGE which is suggested by Timbo. so when I received My new Timbo APPS definitely it's going to be installed & replace the old one.

Now I'm closing this tread or should say topic & move on.

I'm realy realy Appreciate of every one whom spend the valuable time and effort for helping me to solving my problem with trany & reading this long store.

Best Regards

Sam53

Saeed Sadeghian form Everett, WA                   

  

Edited April 18, 20169 yr by Sam53
miss prograf & spacing by system

So apps and alternator were bad hunh? Glad you got it figured out!

2 minutes ago, notlimah said:

So apps and alternator were bad hunh? Glad you got it figured out!

Yahp Thank you though.  

On 4/18/2016 at 4:30 PM, Sam53 said:

I end up doing old fashion treatment (ALUMINIUM FOIL)

I have to buy SPONGE which is suggested by Timbo.

On 4/18/2016 at 4:30 PM, Sam53 said:

I have to buy SPONGE which is suggested by Timbo.

 

Sam I highly suggest AGAINST any noise filters or tin foil tricks this just points to a bad alternator problem. Rather just replace the alternator or rebuild it to keep the rest of the system from getting fried from AC noise issues. So you'll do all this and still lose your VP44, ECM and other computers. Fix it right have the alternator rebuilt or replaced.

 

Edited April 21, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

16 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

So you'll do all this and still lose your VP44, ECM and other computers. Fix it right have the alternator rebuilt or replaced.

(VP44, ECM & other computers) NO WAY I let that happened if I need to buy a brand new alternator, I'll do rather than losing all expensive part. I'm going to get rid of the aluminium & let the wiring breath & not using the truck till get the good alternator, thanks for notifying me.  

would you please tell me which brand is the good one? yesterday my brand new Timbo APPS arrived, I don't have a chance to install it yet since I need to replace the alternator I'll wait then work on both. if someone knows the best or good brand alternator please let me know.

Appreciate for all the help and Effort.    

New doesn't mean good. I've seen new alternators failed right out off box. Any alternator you buy make sure to have tested. I typically buy reman'ed.

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Any alternator you buy make sure to have tested. I typically buy reman'ed.

I want to make sure what test must be done?

AC noise

10 minutes ago, notlimah said:

AC noise

Thanks.

how much noise Frequency is acceptable? 

5 hours ago, Sam53 said:

Thanks.

how much noise Frequency is acceptable? 

 

ZERO. Should be DC power with little to ZERO AC Frequency...

 

OK please someone tell me which local part store i have to go that have RIPPLE test for alternator? i went to NAPA, O'Rally, Auto Zone, Car Quest, Advantage auto part, ACDelco in my area NONE of em have ripple test only things they can do is testing for proper charging. now what should i do to been sure the alternator I'm buying it doesn't have AC noise?

 

Thanks to Dodge Chrysler for this she?>?" design for all make and model they all have electrical problem. only Daimler Chrysler not any other make or brand as we seen on the video

Mr. Nelson posted is the 06 Chrysler not even 98 to 04 dodge ram 2500 cummins!!!! and we have to spend hundreds of dollars to deal and fix the STUPID design. we just buying the name (Dodge Ram) not the quality. look at this way rear end / transmission / transfer case / don't know any thing abut front end yet? / steering box / steering stabilizer ( in the road looks like DUI driving) / lift pump / VP44 / vacuum pump and steering pump seal /air intake elbow / Alternator noise causing electrical and computer failure / turbo / air filter thumping noise / poor dashboard plastic / AC & heating + fan / and so on I mine what the hack. instead of all, this trucks (from 98.5 - 02) have a good looking body and body style that's all nothing else.

it's been only 4 mounts I but this truck and have to spend over 1600 to fix it and still not done yet. every day I'm starting it worried & scared of break down on the road. to me this truck is not Reliable and doesn't have quality.

 

Please Accept my Apologies. 

 

 

 

 

                   

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 hours ago, Sam53 said:

Mr. Nelson posted is the 06 Chrysler not even 98 to 04 dodge ram 2500 cummins!!!! and we have to spend hundreds of dollars to deal and fix the STUPID design.

 

First off all alternators are the same for the most part and have been for years. It just back years ago other there was no computers. So now as a diode or brush pack fails the AC noise increases and what happen the AC noise increases and computer go nuts because of the AC noise. I hate to say it even Ford and Chevy have the same problems too just manifest in different ways. So it's not the the design of the alternator its the on set of all the computers. Like you PC your using right now like to have PERFECT 5V and 12V for the motherboard thats why its got a power supply with noise filters and everything. So technically the best way to run your truck would be off the batteries without an alternator which would be absolutely clean DC power. Problem is the batteries won't last.

 

As for steering I've just about master correcting most steering issues as long as there is stock or smaller sized tires. Even for 261k miles perfect tight steering just like the day I bought with 43 miles on the odometer. Still got OEM tie rod ends yet!

 

So as you read the four reason you'll see the VP44 isn't really the problem everything around it. VP44 not an issue. There only 4 ways to kill a VP44.

1. Excessive AC noise from the alternator.
2. Low fuel pressure. Less that 14 PSI is asking for trouble loss all your cooling flow.
3.  Filtration most people toss the stock can it best to double up stock like FASS 150 or AirDog 150 against the stock can.
4.  Fuel Lubricity. It should be <450 HFRR (Bosch Standards) but US diesel fuel is typically ~520HFR.

Air Filter thumping noise is for the most part normal because of the megaphone effect of the BHAF if installed. You can go ahead and verify the valve lash and do a compression test but I'm pretty sure everything will be fine. You not complaining about white smoke on startup, unusual cranking speed with surge, or misfiring.

 

Vacuum pump seal kit is only 13 dollars and typically change them out in about 1 hour. No problem

 

Most all plastic exposed to lots of UV's and heat tend to degrade. That's another thing that I still don't have a problem with.

 

If you got a 47RE automatic talk to Dynamic he's a transmission guru and can build a heck of transmission. As for the 47RE is actually based on the old 727 Torqueflite from back in the 70's. Dodge has been using that transmission since 1956. The problem was and error was the transmission was designed around a V8 HP/TQ where its high the RPM span but the Cummins is much lower and the transmission doesn't deal with it good. Then toss on power mods and the trans gives up early because most like to defeat the torque management and build more low end power. POP goes the transmission.

 

There is another very weird design flaw that we all suffer with but no one every talks about... (another chapter...)

Edited April 24, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

So if the AC noise cause of ALL this error and failure, what is the best way to get rid of it? changing alternator more often? re-rout the negative wire form under the alternator to front of the engine like the other positive wire over the radiator? install the noise filter?(if someone like fried wire on the oven this method is the very best way!!!) warped the wire with thin aluminium foil? I mean realy what we can do once for a long period of time to be free of this headache?        

Best thing to do is get a good rebuilt alternator and check it monthly.   

 

There is no reason why a good alternator with good diodes shouldn't last 50,000 miles.

14 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

changing alternator more often?

 

Correction... Test your AC noise voltage every oil change. Grab a DVM with capability of measuring small voltage on AC volts and just probe the BATT and the alternator and the alternator case. That's all there is to it. 

 

15 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

re-rout the negative wire form under the alternator to front of the engine like the other positive wire over the radiator?

 

No. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the wiring. It worked for over 14 years the way its was designed. Again fix the cause of the problem. The alternator! The wiring has ZERO to do with the problem.

 

17 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

install the noise filter?

 

Again fix the problem... The noise filter will only handle maybe a single bad diode then when two pop it will blow so much AC noise the filter will fail. Again this alternator smoke 2 diodes and tin foil, ground reroute and noise filter could NOT reduce the noise. Pure and simple the alternator failed! The picture below is 2 failed diodes and pushing over 0.3 AC volts.

 

 

19 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

 I mean realy what we can do once for a long period of time to be free of this headache?        

 

Reduce your loads on the alternator. Like I unhook my grid heaters in the summer because they are not needed. Every time they cycle can pull either 95 amps (single grid) or 190 amps (both grids). The alternator is only rated for 140 amps. So at idle its not spinning fast enough to keep up now if you rev it now the grid hold on longer which makes it worse now adding more time to heating up the diodes to failure. It's all about heat and current flow on the diodes. Some people have gone to the National Alternator and gotten bigger alternators but it requires wiring changes because the factory charge lead is too small plus the alternator fuse is two small as well.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Correction... Test your AC noise voltage every oil change. Grab a DVM with capability of measuring small voltage on AC volts and just probe the BATT and the alternator and the alternator case. That's all there is to it. 

Is DVM is digital voltmeter? I do have 3 different brand & can check any small volt. how do I check the AC noise whit it? how do I probe the BATT and the alternator and the alternator case? I'm asking because newer done it before!!! I know how to check the voltage not probe.  As all ways Appreciate for the helps and efforts you guys providing and Please accept my apologies if   sometimes I'm getting upset.  I want you as of  my friends know that is hard for someone like me living paycheck to paycheck keep up whit this truck issues + payment & insurance for it. I think, mention it before the only reason of buying it was, having  a camper on it ( borrowing for close friend ) & after been 16 years in the U.S.A going to see the beauty of nature on our vacation.

     

21 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

Is DVM is digital voltmeter?

 

Yes. If you hover your mouse over the dotted underlined acronyms it will display the definition.

 

22 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

how do I check the AC noise whit it?

 

Red probe to touch the BATT terminal.  Black probe touching the metal case of the alternator. If the reading is poor touch the negative battery cable. Optimally you want to measure at the alternator not on other wires or battery terminals.

 

25 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

I know how to check the voltage not probe.

 

Same as doing DC but you select AC on a small scale some where like 2V AC or 200mV AC. Now like I said above red to the BATT terminal and black touching the case of the alternator.