Hi all,

I was towing my trailer today as I was looking at cars to buy. It is a nice, heavy 18ft trailer, but I was towing empty. I got back after pulling 150 miles and noticed spots all over the front of the trailer that could have been confused w diesel splash.

Crawled under and found that the leak is on the hard lines from the trans to the trans cooler, right at a plastic retainer clip about just above transfer case. Their is corrosion there, appearing that salt got held their and it corroded and swelled and today it decided to rub through or blow a pin hole. It is a healthy leak.

i pulled into parts store and bought some ATF+4 and funnel, topped it and came home since parts store looked it up and said it wasn't in stock. But I don't trust the kid, he found one line that was $92 and it didn't look just right and the truck has 2. I will try and use the part lookup tool when I get back to the house as I am working on my work iPad (ptooey!) and the tool isn't compatible.

so, I will be installing new lines. But what else should I do while I am fooling w it? It is a daily driver right now. 165k miles. I have never serviced it. Never changed the fluid, but it will be getting a good flushing over the next workweek! I know there are bands, but not much else. I run highway speeds(up to 90mph) and towing good work trailer w car or sometimes bobcat or small tractor. Should I still get in there and drop the pan and look to see condition?

All suggestions are appreciated. 

I confirmed today that I must have a failed thermostat. Running 70-80 w trailer and I just barely raised over the first hash mark, which makes it 160ish? So I need to do a search on the tstat info.

 

thanks in advance!

As for the Trans Leak.

As for the thermostat you should reach 190*F no matter what. Even in sub zero weather ad not towing. So the thermostat is shot.

Well I would highly suggest you change th ATF in the transmission. Just loosen the valve body a little bit and it will drain the torque converter most of the way for you. Adjusting the band are in the FSM in the download area. Typically you torque to 72 inch/pounds and then back off X amount of turns. If I'm not mistaken the fluid and bands should be service every 100k miles or reduced down to 60k miles for high speed travel.

 

I meant that I would be getting a partial fluid change from the fact that I have this leak and must keep driving, so I'll have to keep topping it off. Yes, once I fix the lines I agree that I need to change the fluid and have fresh in there.

 

So that kit is both lines that run parallel to each other to the driver's lower side of engine. I need to take some photos tomorrow and post them up. And am I understanding that link correctly...the port is already in there for hooking up your transmission temp gauge? It is in the best location for the gauge? That would be cool.

I'll use the moroso trans. pan gasket. it seems a good one....         on summitracing.com       # MOR-93110

 

For transmission pan leak!!

Personally spending about $5 a quart for ATF+4 I would look towards fixing the leak and changing the fluid in one shot. But, that's me.

If the trans is shifting fine I would adjust the bands and put a new filter on when you do the lines.

If you have some extra coin get a deeper aluminum pan just because it makes future services so much easier. I have one from Goerend, very nice unit. 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Personally spending about $5 a quart for ATF+4 I would look towards fixing the leak and changing the fluid in one shot. But, that's me.

I would as well, but even if I get those lines here ASAP, I'm going to be driving it for work a few days this week and losing fluid all the time. It isn't just a little flow. I'm thinking of finding some rubber and getting under there and clamping it over the bad area of the hose while I wait for a part to come in so it is more of a leak than a bleed!. So $5 a quart is cheap to keep the transmission alive since I have no other option for wheels. I need to get photos to show the amount.

I have never done a trans pan.If I do this route I'll need to get a gasket, correct? So do I need the moroso mentioned by Frankenstein? Will that work with the goerend pan if I order that? Also, Goerend recommends  Mopar Trans Filter #3515996  for the trans. Can that be picked up at the local Napa/O'Reillys/AutoZone?

Also, what do I need for using that Trans Temp port? What sensor? Where is it suggested I pick it up? I know I want to have that for future towing.

Thanks so much guys. I really appreciate the help.

I used rubber hose with clamps to fix a couple pin holes I had,  it worked for some time, but as with everything the got worse and worse, so just keep an eye on them.

 

The port for trans temp is for 1/8" sensor, but you could use any sensor as there are various brass fittings out there to adapt.  DAP vulcan etc should all have what you need.  

 

Also you can install a bung in the oem pan for just a couple dollars.  I think oriellyes had one for $4, just drill and hole, install the fittings and gasket and you are done.

55 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

Also you can install a bung in the oem pan for just a couple dollars.  I think oriellyes had one for $4, just drill and hole, install the fittings and gasket and you are done.

Link please! I'm looking for this fitting...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/65241/N0268.oap?ck=Search_N0268_-1_-1&pt=N0268&ppt=C0142

What's the thread on the plug? I can see the 1/2-20 but the plug has be something else?

No idea,  

 

I just drilled a hole, inserted the hollow threaded section, put the washer on the backside and installed the nut.  install the plug and bam you are done.

Well geez... What good is it to put a pan drain in if I can't install a temp sender?

ooo, for that I used....something... I forgot, what though.    The bung is so you can drain the fluid from the pan wihtout dropping the pan. 

 

 

Something with a 1/8 NPT bung.

Yea,  I think I just drilled a hole for the 1/8 in NPT threaded section, then just used a joint on the backside to hold it in place.  I used a simple oring on the backside in the same manner.  Pretty simple and it doesn't leak.

5 hours ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

If the trans is shifting fine I would adjust the bands and put a new filter on when you do the lines.

If you have some extra coin get a deeper aluminum pan just because it makes future services so much easier. I have one from Goerend, very nice unit.  

would you tell us approximately the cost of deeper aluminum pan & does it have drain bolt? cause I'm looking to flush the trany + new filter, and want to know which brand is exceptional. may be it help me  for my trany issue.

Appreciate    

Edited March 20, 20169 yr by Sam53
spelling & grammar.

12 minutes ago, Sam53 said:

would you tell us approximately the cost of deeper aluminum pan & does it have drain bolt? cause I'm looking to flush the trany + new filter, and want to know which brand is exceptional. may be it help me  for my trany issue.

Appreciate    

I paid about $230 for the pan and yes it does have a drain hole. 

Changing the transmission filter and installing a deep pan typically won't fix any any issues you are having. They are simply preventive maintenance. 

In my area, in Canada.  I go to auto parts and when I order a filter it comes in package with the pan gasket.   For the moroso pan gasket I'll use this for my custom made deep pan.  It's a thicker gasket with metal inside and its reusable!!      If using a new deep pan you not really need it, cause aftermarket aluminum pan is made stronger and not warping but the moroso gasket is a good choice to prevent again leaking pan.  

Thanks for the INFO.that help a lot.