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Have Isspro EV gauges and wondering where the best place to install pyrometer amplifier? Would like to use someone else's experience if possible. Thank you 

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  • leathermaneod
    leathermaneod

    Yes I am very pleased with them so far. I always enjoy doing business with companies like that. Just like Eric over at Vulcan Performance. 

  • Nappa has 1/8 -27NTP tap part № BK T440 for $18.49 and 1/4 -18NTP tap part № BK T-302 for $6.99. drill bit size: 11/32 for 1/8 NTP,   7/6 for 1/4 NTP. 

  • leathermaneod
    leathermaneod

    Just wanted to update this incase anyone is interested. I did send my pyrometer in to Autometer at their suggestion to be looked at. I sent it last Wednesday evening and received it back yesterday(Tue

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So I have another pyrometer question. I realized today, while working on my fuel leak, that the dude that installed the pyro in my truck tapped the manifold on the wrong side! Meaning the front side of the manifold outlet rather than the rear. Anyone have an idea on how much hotter the back side normally is? Also, if i wanted to fix this, could I just plug that spot and drill and tap the rear side?

Take a picture of where its tapped.

You're right.  Thats is in the wrong spot.  It should have been drilled on the left port which measures the back three cylinders because 5 and 6 run the hottest.

 

Yep that's what I thought. So any ideas on how much my pyro is off? In the future it would be nice to drill and tap the back one and just plug the current hole, but for now I'd just like a ball park estimate of how much hotter the rear cylinders are....

What could you use that would plug the hole and stand up to those temps and heat cycles? Just curious because I've thought of worse case scenarios where drilling and tapping this goes wrong, what would be the best way to fix it. Only thing I could come up with was a whole new manifold, at least that's what I'd tell the wife! :lol:

Lol idk I figured just a steel plug...I really have no idea though I'm hoping someone who knows a lot more than me will chime in because a new manifold is definitely not happening anytime soon. I don't even wanna drill a new hole and move the probe. So I'm hoping for some opinions on how much hotter those rear cylinders are as well as advice on how to fix it.

Well why don't you post your numbers so that way someone with similar mods can tell you their numbers and then you have your difference!

 

I think

 

 :think:

 

Haha

That's an idea. Well truck usually idles at about 250° to 280°. 3 cyl high idle is lower, around 175° or 200° if I remeber right. maybe the probe in the wrong location explains that? Not sure which cylinders fire in 3 cyl? Today on my way to work it's raining and about 35°, and my drive is mostly rural highway. Highest my egts got was a little over 800° in fifth gear climbing a decent grade at about 60mph with 12-15 psi of boost. Normally at about 65mph or so on the interstate I see 600° to 700° on flat and small hills. But it get up in the 900° to 1000° range for some of the really steep hills. Sorry I don't know grades... I also noticed the other day with the comp on 3x5 accelerating hard and about 30-35 psi I think I may have hit 1100°, might have been a little lower but def hit 1000°. What do you all think?

Does not sound out of the ordinary to me. I might see 50* more than you cruising level ground but climbing a grade sounds about right. All depends on how far you stick your foot in it. 

Edited by dripley

That's true. I'm just worried about it since everyone always says to put it in the back. I can't believe I never realized it before. I always thought it was in the correct spot. Next questions then are can you plug one hole and use a new one without issues, or should I just get a new manifold? If so which one? Three piece?  Do you have the hi idle switch to know what temp your at in 3 cyl mode? 

Those temps sound about right, wouldn't mess with with it if was mine. A pipe plug would seal up just fine if you decide to drill a new hole. 

  • Owner
3 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

 Do you have the hi idle switch to know what temp your at in 3 cyl mode? 

 

3 CYL mode is about 800-900*F with an exhaust brake, about 600*F without.

4 minutes ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

Those temps sound about right, wouldn't mess with with it if was mine. A pipe plug would seal up just fine if you decide to drill a new hole. 

Just a normal npt plug? No thread sealant could stand those temps I assume? Can I reuse the original pyro probe or would I need a new one?

 

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

3 CYL mode is about 800-900*F with an exhaust brake, about 600*F without.

See that's what concerns me, I do not have an EB, but my 3 cyl temp is way low, like around 175-200 if I remeber right. The truck still warms up just fine though. Could that be due to the probe location? 

I dont know which 3 fire, but if it is 2,4,and 6 you would not be reading but one live cylinder. Could be the difference. If you plug the hole just put anti seize on it. Personally I would just leave it alone.

Just now, dripley said:

I dont know which 3 fire, but if it is 2,4,and 6 you would not be reading but one live cylinder. Could be the difference. If you plug the hole just put anti seize on it. Personally I would just leave it alone.

Yes that's what I was thinking but idk which three fire either haha. Well that's two people now that told me they would leave it so maybe I should listen lol. I guess if you guys wouldn't worry about it I shouldn't either. I was just concerened about how much hotter those rear cylinders might be getting....

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

1,2,3 are DEAD.

 

4,5,6 are firing.

 

Firing order - 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

 

I'm installed in the 4,5,6 port...

That explains everything! Well what do you think Mike? Leave it alone, plug and re tap, or get a new manifold?

Well I just dont know if it's worth it or if things will break and I'll regret it haha. Also wonder if I can reuse the probe or not. I wonder how much hotter the back three are getting...

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.