Hi all,

So I'm getting ready to do an oil change and I realized that I'm paying almost as much for Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40, which is full synthetic(not sure if it's group 3 or 4 though) as I would be for some of the Amsoil products which I know are group 4 base stocks. So I'm looking into switching to Amsoil. I'd like opinions on which version to use and if I should get a bypass filtration kit while I'm at it. I know they have several different diesel oils and I don't know which one I should use. I originally went with the Valvoline PBX because I wanted the 5w-40 and full synth for the cold temps up here. I can definitely hear when the oil gets to the motor which makes me feel a lot better about things. So I don't know if I should use 15w-40 with Amsoil since its synthetic or if I should still use the 5w-40 even though its recomend for newer engines. I'm also wondering how long I should go on an interval. I was always brought up on 3000 miles, but I know you'll all say that's crazy. So I'm looking to extend intervals and save some cash with this stuff being so expensive. I've read a lot about oils especially when deciding to go with the Valvoline PBX in 5w-40, so I know some general stuff. I'm just looking for some specifics and opinions and advice from you all. 

Thanks!

3 hours ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

Is anyone running a 10w-30 year round?  The duramax/powerstroke guys have been for years and it seems like the OTR trucking industry is heading that way also. 

No.  Their engines are designed for that oil, ours isnt.  

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

If you got a quality filter it will never fill on the outside holes because of the anti-drain valve.

So the drain back valve is to prevent clean oil from being pulled through the filter and back to the oil pan? I always thought it was to keep it from flowing backwards....

 

So do you fill your filters Mike? I was always taught to fill it if you could. Obviously if the filter is sideways or located somewhere really hard to reach you can't, but that's not the case with ours....

I am aware that it is very important to make sure nothing gets in the center of the filter if you do fill it that way...ive read quite a few different places where it was claimed that according to Cummins, little bits of the foil seal of an oil jug cause way more major engine damage by plugging an oil nozzle, than the KDP ever did....

If you fill the center, debris can plug oil passages, get in bearings, and plug cooling jets.  

 

If foil gets in the crankcase, it will likely get stuck on the pickup screen or in the filter.  Or get pulverized by the timing gears.

 

I dont fill mine, because I dont think its necessary, its usually messy, and there is a slight additional risk.  

At the risk of creating havoc, I have pretty much always filled mine thru whatever hole it wants to go in. I am careful with the foil seal and remove the entire seal before pouring. I have filled them this way all my life. Just my .

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one then lol. That's another thing I like about Valvoline oil jugs, the seal comes off very easily and completely. 

There was a few old articles I remember reading about filling the oil filters.

 

A few strange warranty claims on Dodge was one that wipe out a piston because of a mouse turd. Yeap... A mouse turd. What had happened was oil companies mass produce containers and store them in a warehouse and back then bottles didn't get foil lids.  So mice got into them and left presents for consumer. Needless to say the mouse turd was enough to plug a oil nozzle wiping out a piston.

 

Another warranty claim on Dodge was owner was pre-filling the filter and the foil bits had fell back in the jug so when he filled the filter the bits of foil poured into the filter and found there way to connecting rod bearing and wiped it out.

 

Kind of another debris / filter problem. I was changing oil on my truck and always remove the BHAF and put it on the bench. Inspecting the engine and found one intercooler clamp coming lose. Went to the bench to grab a tool bump the bench hear something fall and disregarded the noise of the object and went on to work on the intercooler. Finished up the oil change and the reinstalled the BHAF air filter. Made less than a mile and turbo was dropping boost and EGT rising like a rocket. Limped home to find the object that fell was a hose clamp in the BHAF.

 

 

So now if there is a way to avoid getting debris in any filter or introduced to the engine I do it now. Like keep all filters sitting down on there base seal. This way never get a chance to get anything into the filter. The filter stays wrapped up till I'm ready to use it. If a port or hole is open I'll cover it with duct tape or rubber glove (great for intercooler lines!). So all it takes is once and things can get very expensive very quickly...

Edited May 2, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

What compressor wheel did you replace yours with? OEM? 

 

I like the Fleetguard filters from Geno's because they come sealed in plastic, not just in a box.

 

So I'm guessing you do not fill filters then?

31 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

What compressor wheel did you replace yours with? OEM?

 

Stock. Rebuilt by Industrial Injection also spun balanced.

 

32 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

I like the Fleetguard filters from Geno's because they come sealed in plastic, not just in a box.

 

I do too but getting to a local Fleetguard dealer and keeping the price down is rather difficult. Why I've fell back to Napa Gold filters.

 

34 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

So I'm guessing you do not fill filters then?

 

I use to... I don't any more after a few reported cases of filter loading failures.

Cant say how close I watch when I fill it. I would like to think I would see a piece of foil or a rat turd, but who knows. Been doing it for so long with out any problems. Might be why I lost a valve in number 10 on my 96. Not sure what happened, just know a valve dropped thru the #10 piston. Never experience an engine failure other that that. Of course that failure occurred right after having my oil changed at a pep boys. 

 

Always wondered how you ingested that clamp.

With all the talk we have had about oil filters it reminded me I needed some fuel filters. So I looked for the DBL 7349. After seeing it for $16 to $22 I got a little discouraged. Then I found them for $11.64 here http://www.filterspro.com/detail_2.cfm?part=2679703. I keep thing some one posted this link before, not sure.

So you sent your turbo to them for a rebuild? If you don't mind asking, about how much did that set you back? Between the rebuild and the wheel? I have a rebuild kit from DAP sitting on my shelf, but I'm holding off for now because I decided the turbo wasn't that bad, and I need a new comp wheel because mine is nicked. I always wonder how critical it was to get it balanced though....

 

I do watch very closely when I fill the filter, but now you guys are making me think I should give up that practice. It just scares me knowing that that filter has to fill all the way up before the engine can get oil. I know it takes a second or two even on my Hondas before the low oil pressure light goes out....

Just now, leathermaneod said:

 

So you sent your turbo to them for a rebuild? If you don't mind asking, about how much did that set you back?

 

 

$850... Completely rebuilt and put back to spec.

 

1 minute ago, leathermaneod said:

know it takes a second or two even on my Hondas before the low oil pressure light goes out....

 

You could pull the fuel pump relay (in the PDC) it will disable the VP44 and you could crank the starter to pump the oil up to pressure. Then reinstall the fuel pump relay and then fire up.

Wow that is quite a bit. I guess one rebuilt by them is probably a lot better than a comparably priced new one though. 

 

I like that idea about disabling the vp while getting the pressure up. Only question is, how exactly should it be done? Crank for so many seconds then fire it up? I mean without a mechanical gauge there would be no good way to know for sure when the pressure is up...

I get my truck up to temp before changing. It only takes 30 to 45 minutes to change the oil. How much lube can you loose in that time period to make any difference in starting with the filter empty?

Just now, dripley said:

How much lube can you loose in that time period to make any difference in starting with the filter empty?

 

Exactly... A second or two of idling isn't a huge issue.

 

5 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

I mean without a mechanical gauge there would be no good way to know for sure when the pressure is up...

 

The stock gauge is nothing more than a dummy light so the needle pops up then the pressure is there...

hmmmm. Well I guess if you guys aren't concerned then I shouldn't be either. The whole "most engine wear occurs at startup" thing just really sticks in my mind. This is a hard pill to swallow lol But then again I don't want to risk damaging my engine by inadvertently dumping a mouse turd in the filter either so I guess this is a pick your poison situation lol

Not knowing the direction on oil flow from the pump, my guess is the sensor sees the oil flow before the filter. and would never know the air passed thru the system.

Oil pressure sensor is on the driver side of the block after the oil filter.

11 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Oil pressure sensor is on the driver side of the block after the oil filter.

Well, live and learn. Thanks.

2 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

The whole "most engine wear occurs at startup" thing just really sticks in my mind.

 

Years ago back in the stone age most diesel owners had electric pumps to pressure the oil system before start for this issue. I don't even remember the name of the common unit but here is a marine pre-oiler for same reason. Ask yourself how many people have these? Then how many oil related failures are there from startup?

 

If you are really worried you can install a system like this...

https://www.cpperformance.com/products/Oil/engine-pre-lube.htm

 

Another idea...

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/132630-Is-it-possible-to-prime-a-Cummins-oil-pump?p=1238843#post1238843

 

Edited May 3, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

That's awesome! Thank you!