Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

11 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

We got your back, no worries. 

 

As for MPG vs tow etc.  MPG is going to mostly be the same regardless of the tune provided the cruise timing is the same.  

 

What I would start off with for your setup is posted in the tune thread  i will link your user so you get a notice.

 

Power Reduction applies to lvl1 only so you can set it to whatever you like then it will only apply when you put the tuner to power lvl1.

 

Thank you Nick I think I understand

 

Do you have warmup settings enabled?  I am assuming hte phone is connected to the bluetooth and the truck is on correct?  the app won't change power levels unless it is connected to the truck with the truck powered on.  

 

Yes warm up is enabled, phone is connected but the truck is not on just the key, didn't want to sit and idle forever.   Got to learn how to reply too. 

 

 

Edited November 7, 20168 yr by Dieselfuture

So your power level bar is Green then?  You can't change power levels until coolant is up to the temp configured in the warmup mode. 

15 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

So your power level bar is Green then?  You can't change power levels until coolant is up to the temp configured in the warmup mode. 

It is green and I didn't think of that warm up mode I set it at 140f, Just saved your tune you posted for me on v2 tunes will try it on the way home about 80ml worth. 

 

Is Default Profile a tune also? or you have to build all of your tunes with v2 tuning 

default profile is a tune, it is geared more to stock injector trucks.  You might like it more I dunno.  

The names are slightly different, but you can see what they mean easy

 

Quote

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// Custom Tuning Defaults Start
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
#define DEF_POWER_LEVEL_MAX 11         // including level 0

//timing
#define DEF_TIMING_ADV_MAX  6.0
#define DEF_TIMING_SCALE   100
#define DEF_LOW_BOOST_ADV 2.0  //this is how much timing to pull at max TPS vs low boost.
#define DEF_LOW_BOOST_SCALE 100 //Sets how much scaling to use for timing.
#define DEF_CRUISE_TIME_MAX 2.5 // timing to add when at cruise state

#define DEF_BOOST_MAX      40

#define DEF_BOOST_SCALE_MIN_PUMP 10  //** can be a % from 0-100 min fueling boost %
#define DEF_BOOST_SCALE_PSI_PUMP 8  //** Set this to a PSI
#define DEF_RPM_MAX               3400

 

#define DEF_FUEL_TIME_MAX   1800

#define DEF_POWER_REDUCTION_SCALE    35  //** can be a % from 0-100 0 for no reduction 100 for %100 reduction

#define DEF_PUMP_TPS_MAXMAP_POINT    100    // can be 1 - 100
#define DEF_PUMP_TPS_MAPSCALE_MIN    20    // can be 0 - 100

#define DEF_POWER_SCALE0 101
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE1 102
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE2 103
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE3 104
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE4 105
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE5 107
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE6 109
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE7 110
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE8 112
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE9 114
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE10 116
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE11 118
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE12 120
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE13 122
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE14 124
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE15 125
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE16 126
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE17 127
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE18 128
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE19 129
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE20 130
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE21 131
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE22 132
#define DEF_POWER_SCALE23 134
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// Custom Tuning Defaults END
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

 

Got better videos today. Had the truck at 35mph in 4th gear (1450-1500rpm) and used the brake to hold it there. This was just to show the low end smoke caused by big injectors and stock tuning. First is stock, 2nd is quad on level 2. I like the sound of my exhaust....

 

And from what I can tell, it took the big turbo about 1/2 a second longer to spool. If I were to bump the fueling just a tad on the quad I'm sure it would have spooled just as fast. 

 

 

Edited November 7, 20168 yr by TFaoro

Nick, you mentioned earlier that the minimum timing was somewhere around 8 degrees.  I have yet to record anything lower than high 10s.  Do you know if there's a difference based on what pump you're running/year of truck/etc?

 

 

I believe the pump for an ho truck is simply just advanced manually, if it wasn't and it was all code then you would see HO and SO pumps acting in the exact same manner based upon what truck they were in.

 

 

Now you will only ever se 8* if you go WOT from a stop, that is the only time when the ECM pulls timing down enough for us to actually bring it down to 8*. Once you are moving the ecm keeps timing in the 13*-15* range depending on a mass of variables.

 

Remember the Quad Base timing map and the timing reduction map work against each other also.  Down low the timing reduction map has more weight, but as psi rises then the base timing map has more weight.  Try a tune with you timing max set to 0 and your timing reduction set to 5*.  I bet you will pulling timing down like a rock.    You can also add more weight to one of the other by messing with the scaling function for each of them.  Setting timing reduct to 5* but the scaling to %50 will push more timing reduction down low.    

 

If we need to we can allow for higher timing reduction settings, I didn't see a need for it as offidle I was able to pulling timing down to 8* using only 3* on the setting.

58 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

You can also add more weight to one of the other by messing with the scaling function for each of them.  Setting timing reduct to 5* but the scaling to %50 will push more timing reduction down low.  

This has never made sense to me.... seems like 50% would make it less weighted. Damn programmers

I really don't have a good way to explain this lololol.

 

The scaling function is really just a "cap" on max timing, so %50 scaling with 12* timing gives you a max of 6* timing correct?  So it will max out at the same max timing as just setting 6* with %100 scaling. 

 

So the key difference is what happens up to that max.  The calculation for timing is linear.  So say 12* time %50 scalin, below 6* the timing is still 12* x timing map position.  You can see the red line in this picture ramps up to that 6* faster.  simply because where the map shows it wants %20 timing you will get more with 12* as your setting.  

 

12 x .20 = 2.4* vs 6 x .20 = 1.2*.  

 

 

Edited December 30, 20177 yr by Me78569

So it uses the linear ramp of 12* but caps it at 6, making it much more aggressive.

 

Got it, and it makes perfect sense.  

Yea...that.....dummy 

 

Now that you have a handle on it, go ahead and write up the training on it, because  I obviously cannot explain it worth a darn 

Edited November 8, 20168 yr by Me78569

50 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Yea...that.....dummy 

 

Now that you have a handle on it, go ahead and write up the training on it, because  I obviously cannot explain it worth a darn 

Wait.... you mean I have to use this $80,000 degree?

 

So, to put this in the simplest terms that I can, it all has to do with peak timing and how fast it reaches that peak timing. 

The picture I attached demonstrates timing with reference to boost. These numbers are fictional as I'm sure quad has their own equation.... it could be based on rpm and boost, but it doesn't matter for this example. 

 

Now to explain:The slope of the graph is basically how fast timing ramps up with reference to the boost. As you can see, 12* has the 2nd steepest slope, so anytime you put 12* in your timing is going to ramp up very quickly. You then use the timing % to determine your peak timing. In the example I used 50%. So 50% of 12* is 6*. As shown in the graph, the timing will still ramp up at the same rate as 12* it just cuts off and flatlines when it hits 6*. This can be done for 15*. 15*x0.6666 = 10* You can see that in the example too. 

Edited November 8, 20168 yr by TFaoro

Ok, I got to say wow, there is definitely a difference of how the truck drives now. What i noticed is at cruse speed my egt's are down about 100f, low to middle of 600's, truck sounds more crisp, feels like it has less effort to go down the road now, way less smoke on acceleration, just at low end mainly,  but for some reason my lieometer is now about 4-5mpg less, it used to stay between 28-34 cruising 55-60 and now for some odd reason it's between 23-29 or so same road same speed, my real mpg was right at 20, but truck feels better, will find out after few days, i'll put few hundred ml on by then and compare. I do have some more questions of course. 

 

1. Quad advertises  "Read and Erase DTC's" with iquad, not sure how to get there, and life data where I can monitor timing, etc. in real life if it's an option, just seen your maps when you guys were playing with tuning stuff, how do you get that.

 

2. An idea and a question, create a tune just for IDLE TIME (winter tune). So if I go to the store for few minutes or pick up kids etc. Have it set at 100f for turbo timer on egt setting, on level 0 with high idle activated after 10-20 sec or so, set power redaction to 10 so it can still high idle, pull the key out of ignition, lock the doors go do your things, come back put key back in, change tune and drive off. Not sure if by putting key back in it will make the tuck go back to normal, or are you going to have to shut it off and sturt it again anyway.

 

3.  By driving on your regular DD tune on levl 3 so wire tap is disabled, and with power reduction at 70-80, would you see better mpg at cruse speed since you're not using full potential, or you'd burn more fuel trying to get going.

 

4. So basicly for max mileage, you don't need to create a special tune, because at cruse speed above 40mph on level 3 (no wire tap) as long as your cruse timing is around 19-20 you should see good mpgs 

 

To be honest, if it wasn't for this new software that Nick wrote I don't think I would by this Iquad or be all that exited about quadzilla, in my opinion Nick saved this thing big time. It's finally where it should've been this whole time. Just my  ofcourse. Better late then never. VP trucks will go up in price some more now. Thank you Nick and people involved in updating quad, and Mike and his site for making lots of things possible.  Too long of a list to thank for everything. 

Just at the bottom of your screen drag upwards and the many different data icon are present. Just drag them to a placement that you want. As for reading errors I've not seen it either. 

 

Turbo timer I've got set for 300*F but if I want to leave it idling I just set the 6 cylinder high idle and it floats just above the 300*F and won't shut down. That way you don't have to keep changing the tune.

 

Daily driver I use my levle 6 or MAX tune. As for level 3 it doesn't use the power reduction setting. That is Level 1. I've got mine set to 5% so if I'm in Boise I set my tune to level 1 and the truck only drives 5 MPH. It make it a complete turd and I don't think anyone will steal it then. 

 

As for my MPG tune again I use Level 6 and got my timing adjusted not just 19-20* but for what the truck requires. The 19-20* is a good starting place but there is way to many variables that are involved to just say 19-20* is optimal. Larger injectors might need this kind of timing but like myself with smaller injectors I'm use a base timing of only 6*. 

58 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Ok, I got to say wow, there is definitely a difference of how the truck drives now. What i noticed is at cruse speed my egt's are down about 100f, low to middle of 600's, truck sounds more crisp, feels like it has less effort to go down the road now, way less smoke on acceleration, just at low end mainly,  but for some reason my lieometer is now about 4-5mpg less, it used to stay between 28-34 cruising 55-60 and now for some odd reason it's between 23-29 or so same road same speed, my real mpg was right at 20, but truck feels better, will find out after few days, i'll put few hundred ml on by then and compare. I do have some more questions of course. 

 

1. Quad advertises  "Read and Erase DTC's" with iquad, not sure how to get there, and life data where I can monitor timing, etc. in real life if it's an option, just seen your maps when you guys were playing with tuning stuff, how do you get that.

 

2. An idea and a question, create a tune just for IDLE TIME (winter tune). So if I go to the store for few minutes or pick up kids etc. Have it set at 100f for turbo timer on egt setting, on level 0 with high idle activated after 10-20 sec or so, set power redaction to 10 so it can still high idle, pull the key out of ignition, lock the doors go do your things, come back put key back in, change tune and drive off. Not sure if by putting key back in it will make the tuck go back to normal, or are you going to have to shut it off and sturt it again anyway.

 

3.  By driving on your regular DD tune on levl 3 so wire tap is disabled, and with power reduction at 70-80, would you see better mpg at cruse speed since you're not using full potential, or you'd burn more fuel trying to get going.

 

4. So basicly for max mileage, you don't need to create a special tune, because at cruse speed above 40mph on level 3 (no wire tap) as long as your cruse timing is around 19-20 you should see good mpgs 

 

To be honest, if it wasn't for this new software that Nick wrote I don't think I would by this Iquad or be all that exited about quadzilla, in my opinion Nick saved this thing big time. It's finally where it should've been this whole time. Just my  ofcourse. Better late then never. VP trucks will go up in price some more now. Thank you Nick and people involved in updating quad, and Mike and his site for making lots of things possible.  Too long of a list to thank for everything. 

The Lie o meter is based on serval calculations.  You will notice it will read a lot less than normal if your tune is starting and cruise below %100    one on of the main calcs for the mpg meter is the fueling message ,the tuning % for each PSI level directly alters the fueling message.  This means the PCM doesn't lknow how much fuel is being used.  

 

old tuners pretty much always fueled over %100, as is apparent by the lie o meter, so that is why they read higher mpg. 

 

 

1.  DTC are not able to be read over the canbus plug under the hood.  DTC stuff is for later year trucks.

 

2. Just set your turbo timer to 100*, it will idle for up to ~20 minutes ( that is a silent feature I put in when I first started working on it)

 

3. You really wont see a big MPG difference based on how much fueling you do in the tune, within reason.  The truck still needs x amount of power to move down the road.  I would just make a tune that you like and keep it on that.  The cruise timing function is what will get MPG up.    I would guess that underfueling a significant amount would cause mileage to drop.  Lvl1 is really for emissions or anti theft.

 

4. pretty umch true any level should work find for mileage assuming timing is in the range that you configure it to be.

 

Thanks, it means a lot.   

Edited November 8, 20168 yr by Me78569

1. gotcha

2. so by removing key from ignition and putting it back in within 20 min time span will be ok, and truck will be driveable without have to restart it? pcm, ecm, vp, quad will all agree? I'l try it and find out just wanted an opinion before I fried something. 

3. make since

4. also makes since

You're welcome you did a bigger thing then you think, (I think)

 

Another few  question

1. are you guys still fooling IAT to 143f to help with more timing (summer like conditions) or is it not necessary with new software and being able to set your cruse timing to what you want. and using IAT fooling can be just used for greed heaters ect

 

2. say you set it to level one with redaction of 5 so it just idles, and then you break your phone, then what. My guess is disconnect batteries unhook tuner plug map sensor in original plug and drive away on a stock truck. For these that know that anti theft option isn;t a problem then. So might want to have a back up plan also. 

 

I hope I bring up some good points for everyone that might be wondering same thing, otherwise I fill pretty dumb, just doesn't seem like there is much interest in this right now, unless everybody else has an Edge and just drooling over this thread thinking I wish I had a quad Sorry had to. 

Yep it can idle until it hits that 20 minute time and it will shut off.  The truck is none the wiser.

 

As for the IAT fooler, I think it would still help as your Daily driving at lower speeds will still increase due to the fooler.

 

IF the phone breaks the quad iwll remember whatever setting it was on. If you pull the power to the quad it will revert back to lvl0

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

1. are you guys still fooling IAT to 143f to help with more timing (summer like conditions) or is it not necessary with new software and being able to set your cruse timing to what you want. and using IAT fooling can be just used for greed heaters ect

 

 

 

Correction. It retards timing. The ECM programming is excessively advanced timing in with cold coolant and IAT temps. Like @Me78569 and myself found that it can retard roughly 3-4* on the cold start. As it warms up it reverts to the normal timing seemlessly. Even if you leave MPG fooler on it will still work just fine when fully warmed up. This is why the rattle seems to be reduced when the fooler is turned on.

 

Just remember colder the IAT the more timing. The warm the IAT the less timing. Reason why is ECM assumes that the air, fuel and everything is cold so it adds timing to give better chances to ignite. The only factor the ECM can't see is the fuel chemistry so if the cetane is already high then the advanced timing doesn't help MPG's at all. It actually hurts the MPG number.

Edited November 8, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

Got another question

Say my truck is running and my phone is on and linked to adrenalin through iquad, can someone with quad software on their phone change my settings while my phone is linked or only when nothing is linked to iquad one device can be liked. I'm guessing any device that is compatible can be linked to iquad through bluetooth just like I did originally with my phone and there were no passwords, it just asks you pair with this device, push it and you're paired. Just wondering if anyone tried this, kind of a concern to me. Not that random people will be paring with you, and they would still need the software to do anything, but if you had a buddy that liked messing with you then... 

On 11/7/2016 at 10:10 PM, Me78569 said:

Yea...that.....dummy 

 

Now that you have a handle on it, go ahead and write up the training on it, because  I obviously cannot explain it worth a darn 

Man I think I finally start to understand this at least some of it. 

So where would it be beneficial to set it more aggressive like that.  Why not just use 100 scale and let it ramp up slower. I suppose if you had bigger injectors or turbo things happen quicker and getting there faster might be beneficial?   

Edited November 9, 20168 yr by Dieselfuture

Like myself I've got rather smallish injectors where I can ramp up aggressively and still be rather smokeless running. Now like @TFaoro he's got to ramp up slow and be more careful about settings because of the larger injectors. Name of the game is to feed as much fuel as possible across the full fuel and boost map without smoking excessively. When you get smoke then your basically flooding the cylinder without enough boost pressure to ignite the fuel completely. I'm still attempting to get better handle on all the setting and relearning with every flash upgrade. 

 

Like with my set up I enjoy the idea that the injectors are small and need to use the Quadzilla Adrenaline to push beyond the stock rates. This makes for good control yet and MPG values. I'm still waiting for @Me78569 and @TFaoro to catch me in the MPG game. The horse power game has already been played out we all know how far these trucks will go with HP/TQ but has anyone play the efficiency game to 30 MPG? Not yet on the 24 valved trucks. I'm going to attempt to beat my previous 27.2 MPG by any amount.