Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

Cruise control issue: Look at the attached log, gotta figure out why the cruise surges, and throws the timig out of cruise mode. Any ideas on why it surges like this?

Cruise VS Foot.xlsx

Few things,

 

• What's up with your fuel pressure?  
• Do you know if your oil pressure sensor is working correctly?  
• I would wait until your truck has completely warmed up prior to taking any data.  The truck does some weird stuff when it's cold.  Generally I find that for taking data it's best when the truck is above 180.  Just seems to be more consistent across the board.

 

The only correlation I can find is that this might be due to the engine load dropping by more than a few percent while also combined with your TPS dropping. You can't really notice this in the first little blip, but then again you're TPS and engine load seems to be pretty stable in this area.  On the second and more noticeable 3rd drop you'll notice that the engine load and TPS in this area are moving together.

 

I'm sure @Me78569 could go into further detail but I see similar patterns in my daily driving so it's not something that I think to be too far out of the morm.  

 

Also, considering that these little blips were anywhere from 2-3 seconds in length you shouldn't be sacrificing too much when it comes to gas mileage. 

 

 

 

On another note, I have yet to get a solid fill up on just daily driving.  What I can say is that I was way above anything I expected on this last fill up which was a mix of highway driving with the 5th wheel, in town driving, and highway unloaded.  Averaged right at 14.1.  Not great, but considering that half that time was with the rv which I usually average around 9-10 depending on wind and elevation, I'm ok with that.

 

 

 

Don't bother data logging until temps are above 170*F  Timing is stupidly advanced from the ecm at that point and the quad doesn't add timing.

 

I decluttered your data log so I could read into it better,  to me it looks like speed is increasing and decreasing too much in the places where timing is dropping.

 

 

to "cure" your fueling surge issue that is causing the above I am going ot say you should pull some fueling in the 3-7 psi range in your mpg tune.  

 

Does your truck have vacuum cruise control or cable cruise control?

18 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Does your truck have vacuum cruise control or cable cruise control?

It's an 00 so it should have vacuum. 

 

I'm really liking the newest timing change. I finally got a chance to do some around town driving and I'm liking the way timing ramps up. It no longer stays low when the power comes in. 

Is there a time frame that we need to wait with key on before starting the truck, aside from wait to start? do we need to wait for the phone app to load and start reading what's going on before we start the truck? reason I'm asking is I think sometimes if I start it too quick then I get some glitches, the other day I started the truck for first time in morning with about 40f ambient and didn't wait for anything and pulled in a garage turned key off but the truck was still running and what it was is my turbo timer that is set at 350 f but qwad was telling me temp was at 560 f, I turned exhaust break on just to see if it goes up and it actually went down to about 430 f. so I tapped go pedal and truck died, tried starting it again but waited for qwad to load and it did same thing. not sure, haven't started since. also I had that issue with not having to wait till truck warms to my preset temp of 140 f so I'm able to change power levels which was also first start of the day. so I'm thinking is there strain time that it takes qwad to properly load? 

 

The Box under the hood will fully start much faster than you can crank the truck.  

 

The phone app is purely a display, once you setup your tune and settings they are stored in the box and loaded the next time you start the truck.  

21 hours ago, Carbur8tr said:

Few things,

 

• What's up with your fuel pressure?  
• Do you know if your oil pressure sensor is working correctly?  
• I would wait until your truck has completely warmed up prior to taking any data.  The truck does some weird stuff when it's cold.  Generally I find that for taking data it's best when the truck is above 180.  Just seems to be more consistent across the board.

 

The only correlation I can find is that this might be due to the engine load dropping by more than a few percent while also combined with your TPS dropping. You can't really notice this in the first little blip, but then again you're TPS and engine load seems to be pretty stable in this area.  On the second and more noticeable 3rd drop you'll notice that the engine load and TPS in this area are moving together.

 

I'm sure @Me78569 could go into further detail but I see similar patterns in my daily driving so it's not something that I think to be too far out of the morm.  

 

Also, considering that these little blips were anywhere from 2-3 seconds in length you shouldn't be sacrificing too much when it comes to gas mileage. 

 

 

 

On another note, I have yet to get a solid fill up on just daily driving.  What I can say is that I was way above anything I expected on this last fill up which was a mix of highway driving with the 5th wheel, in town driving, and highway unloaded.  Averaged right at 14.1.  Not great, but considering that half that time was with the rv which I usually average around 9-10 depending on wind and elevation, I'm ok with that.

 

 

 

@Carbur8tr, I bought a cheap 30PSI fuel pressure transducer on amazon, I am waiting for the 100PSI one to be delivered. I have a FASS system, and a gauge on the column reads PSI directly at the pump, its always stable and above 15psi, whereas the one for the quad in plumbed in about 12 inches from the VP44. I have 1/2" Doublewall hose from Tank to Bank, and a Tank Sump for good delivery.

 

My oil pressure always reads 102 PSI, I believed all of the cummins were like this because the ECM receives the oil pressure data in an unreadable format.

 

My truck hardly ever reaches coolant temps above 178* unless I am hard on it, I think its because of the thermostat. The previous owner put the engine in, and he was pulling a 40' goose neck every day for a solar business, so it is possible he put a cold thermostat in.

21 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Don't bother data logging until temps are above 170*F  Timing is stupidly advanced from the ecm at that point and the quad doesn't add timing.

 

I decluttered your data log so I could read into it better,  to me it looks like speed is increasing and decreasing too much in the places where timing is dropping.

 

 

to "cure" your fueling surge issue that is causing the above I am going ot say you should pull some fueling in the 3-7 psi range in your mpg tune.  

 

Does your truck have vacuum cruise control or cable cruise control?

I have vacuum cruise control and under 70mph, it likes to hunt for the speed, which you can see in that log. with cruise on the TPS% will constantly oscillate a few percent, and I am pretty sure this is the problem with the timing. @Me78569 the data you have displayed above is me driving with cruise off, so my foot is not steady and neither is speed. If you see this view below, Series (2) is the data with Cruise on, and the timing constantly drops, almost exactly the same number of degrees every time. the timing curve even repeats several times throughout the log.

 

I will try pulling a few % from my 3-7 PSI scales as you suggested.

 

 

Are you sure you even have a thermostat lol?

Your oil pressure sensor is bad, mine was doing the same thing.  

 

I am not able to understand the graph info overload.

 

I also can't tell the difference in the blue timing lines between the 2 run.  

Edited November 28, 20168 yr by Me78569

@Carbur8tr @Me78569 See this picture below, this is what I was saying, This is comparing cruise to no cruise, (Series 2 is not cruise, I had that backwards)

Edited November 28, 20168 yr by xxTJRocksxx
table formatting

Noticed your Edit,

 

So your issue can likely be cured by making your tune more lazy in the cruise area, OR by putting a restrictor in the vacuum line that runs to your CC module.  

 

You could also make a flat spot in your tune at your crusie psi.  That way if boost comes up fueling doesn't increase.

Edited November 28, 20168 yr by Me78569

You sure that's not the other way around?

 

Flat timing on (2) as well as the constant TPS would make me think otherwise.  

 

Two things though, speed and tps.  There are a few variables here that make it a little hard for comparison.

11 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Your oil pressure sensor is bad, mine was doing the same thing.  

 

I am not able to understand the graph info overload.

 

I also can't tell the difference in the blue timing lines between the 2 run.  

@Me78569 Yeah that makes sense, dammit!

 

As for the graphs, I heavily rely on the chart filters to clutter/declutter the info, so no worries. The tool I made has its limits, but I keep finding ways to improve it.

 

As for the timing, The dark blue line represents timing without cruise control engaged, and the light blue line that dips repeatedly is the timing curve with cruise control on. I admit I should have done two logs at the same speeds, to see if it really is a fueling problem.

 

I really think its just a cruise control problem though, because even with cruise off at 70 mph, the timing stays right around 20* if I don't hit a big hill or move my foot. you can see on the chart that the boost stays very stable with cruise off too.

 

in the .xls attached, I pre filtered everything to be easier to understand, all except graph 450

Cruise VS Foot.xlsx

11 minutes ago, Carbur8tr said:

You sure that's not the other way around?

 

Flat timing on (2) as well as the constant TPS would make me think otherwise.  

 

Two things though, speed and tps.  There are a few variables here that make it a little hard for comparison.

yeah I had it backwards, (2) is cruise off

Ya I would just drop your fueling at cruise by a 3-5% and see if it gets better.    You are runnning bigger injectors than me but the same tune so I would expect to start to see this type of issue.  The more aggressive your tune gets the more you will notice CC freaking out like this.  

 

I would also put in a section of smaller vacuum line leading to the CC module.  

4 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Ya I would just drop your fueling at cruise by a 3-5% and see if it gets better.    You are runnning bigger injectors than me but the same tune so I would expect to start to see this type of issue.  The more aggressive your tune gets the more you will notice CC freaking out like this.  

 

I would also put in a section of smaller vacuum line leading to the CC module.  

Oh I agree with you. I have to pick the wife up from PBI airport (30 miles away) so I am going to make a few changes to the tune and try some testing. I will graph the logs and get back to you guys tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the help, I am loving this forum. Not looking forward to changing the Oil press. transducer though, POS.

It's pretty easy to get to, just to pricey for my liking. 

@xxTJRocksxx

 

 

As for your MPG, I would expect it to come up somewhat if you get coolant up to 190*f-200*f.  I would get a new theromostat.

 

Hey guys, First of all thank you for all of the input. I really appreciate the conversation.

 

Secondly, I drove 48.1 miles on 2 gallons of fuel (23.84 mpg) above 70mph. Timing was relatively stable, but cruise still needs adjusting. 90% of the trip I was running "Test Tune 2", and I just graphed the fueling curve with interesting results. See the tunes below, and the graph of their respective fuel curves.

 

Anyway I think a better starting point for 7x0.010 SAC injectors is between 82-83.5%, and the smooth curve really helped with the timing and cruise. Its not perfect, but I am getting more confident with the tuning, and setting up these different tunes before my trips and switching on the road is a great experiment. @Carbur8tr @Me78569

 

I am going to get a new thermostat this weekend to see if I can get those numbers up further, but I am very impressed already.

	Normal	Test Tune 1	Test Tune 2
# Power Levels	6	6	6
Timing Limit	15	15	15
Timing Scale	55%	54%	53%
Low PSI Timing Reduct	2.5	2.5	2.5
Timing Reduct Scaling	100%	100%	100%
Cruise Timing Adv.	3	3.5	3.5
Max Fuel Stretch	1700	1750	1400
TPS Pump MAX	100%	100%	99%
TPS Pump MIN	25%	20%	20%
Pump Low Boost Limit %	5%	8%	5%
Pump Low Boost Scale PSI	10	0	0
Boost Scaling	40 PSI	40 PSI	40 PSI
RPM Limit	3200	3200	3200
Power Reduction	15%	15%	15%
	Normal	Test Tune 1	Test Tune 2
0 PSI	86%	82%	83%
1 PSI	87%	83%	83.2%
2 PSI	87%	84%	83.5%
3 PSI	89%	85%	83.9%
4 PSI	89%	85%	84.4%
5 PSI	89%	87%	85.0%
6 PSI	89%	87%	85.7%
7 PSI	90%	87%	86.5%
8 PSI	92%	89%	87.4%
9 PSI	94%	91%	88.5%
10 PSI	96%	92%	89.6%
11 PSI	98%	99%	90.8%
12 PSI	100%	100%	92.0%
13 PSI	104%	104%	94.1%
14 PSI	108%	108%	96.3%
15 PSI	112%	112%	99.0%
16 PSI	116%	116%	103.0%
18 PSI	124%	122%	106.0%
20 PSI	128%	128%	110.0%
22 PSI	132%	132%	115.0%
24 PSI	136%	136%	120.0%
26 PSI	138%	140%	125.0%
28 PSI	138%	140%	132.0%
30 PSI+	138%	140%	138.0%

23 mpg at 70 mph.....haha no amount of code is going to make it get better than that hahaha.

 

 

 

@Me78569 what are you seeing for fuel mileage and at what stretch?