Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

18 hours ago, Me78569 said:

well if it doesn't surge anymore I am happy...please say it doesn't surge.

Le'ts just say I can control whether it surges or not! (No it does not surge when timing is set correctly )

 

I'll try and get the update stuff done on my laptop again so I can try that newest high rpm tune. 

I got fueling to hold at max until ~3300 rpm.  Trans shifted so I don't know how long it will hold at max, but you should see a ton more fuel until 3450.  After that I let it fall off to prevent the ecm from shutting down.  

@Me78569 Hey we need to figure out the upper RPM range for MPG. 65 MPH is OK at 18 to 20 MPG. But the 80 MPH is in the toilet like 14 to 15 MPG.

 

I'm considering rolling back to see the old timing and comparing.

no changes were made to the cruise timing stuff.   It is %100 identical, I even compared the code from a backup of the tune you were running.  the new timing stuff is never running at the same time as the cruise timing section of code.  it is always one or the other, literally there is a line that tells the quad to use cruise timing or rpm based timing.   

Something changed... Puzzled...

What does your timing numbers at 80 vs at 65 tell you?  how about compared to before?  Regardless of the coding you should be able to see that timing at 80 is the same or different compared to before.  The output is the output ya know? Whats different in the output values compared to before?  

 

  Is your's going into cruise state and trying to get to the timing that is specified by your cruise state timing amount?  

For 80mph revs are much higher and timing should be adjusted accordingly. Basically you need a cruise timing for the speed you plan on running. For me around 70-75mph 20* works best. If I were pushing 80 I would probably try to bump timing to around 22*. 

Regardless of how or what I can say with %10000000 certainty that the code is the same as before for cruise state.  

 

I would look into if your truck is actually going into cruise state or not.  I know that cruise state will apply up to 84 mph is tps and mph is stable.  

 

To test you should be able to set cruise timing to 3*, then take it out.  You should see and hear timing jump to ~20* once you are at cruise.

I'll check on the way home.

@Me78569 did you make some changes to the tune that you sent me the other day?  
 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@Me78569 Hey we need to figure out the upper RPM range for MPG. 65 MPH is OK at 18 to 20 MPG. But the 80 MPH is in the toilet like 14 to 15 MPG.

 

I'm considering rolling back to see the old timing and comparing.

I never saw that kind of mileage with just the rv's or them and the comp.

Before I update the flash and APK for the Quadzilla I topped out at 22 MPG doing awesome with winter cold temps and everything. Now the last two trips are barely 17.x MPG. @Me78569 says the code is the same but for some reason, I can't find that sweet spot again. 

On 1/17/2017 at 4:16 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

@Me78569 Hey we need to figure out the upper RPM range for MPG. 65 MPH is OK at 18 to 20 MPG. But the 80 MPH is in the toilet like 14 to 15 MPG.

 

I'm considering rolling back to see the old timing and comparing.

Wait, is this the same Mike that use to preach to us on how going over 55mph was bad and just a waste of fuel?

2 minutes ago, Carbur8tr said:

Wait, is this the same Mike that use to preach to us on how going over 55mph was bad and just a waste of fuel?

right up until the point he was 23+ mpg at 80 hahahaha.    

 

 

As for Mikes issue, I believe it is related to IAT temps being so low.  Until IAT's are above ~85*F the ecm is going to add ~4-6* of timing.   

I made several trips holding 23-24 MPG with interstate travel at 80 MPH. Like talking to @Me78569 I'm going to end up changing the IAT gauge from the cold mark from 60*F to 80*F. Also I've got to rehook up the MPG fooler. I was testing a first article cable from our new supplier and pull the wires out of my old cable on the IAT plug. This is where it would shine. 

More logs from @TFaoro, thanks man

 

canbus Fueling has been held at %100 until ~3400.  Still working on getting to ~3500 at full canbus fuel. 

 

@jlbayes thought you might find it interesting.

 

New

 

 

Old, you can see at 3200ish fueling starts to drop like a rock.

 

There should be a pretty significant change in how much power falls off beyond 3000 rpm.

I need to get the MPG fooler turned on before drop below 80*F IAT. MPG's are better with warmer IAT temperatures. It seems there is a heavy amount of advancement below 80*F IAT which kills off the MPG's. I've been attempting to avoid the fooler so not to muddy the tuning up for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Come to find out you do need the MPG fooler to keep pushing forward MPG wise. 

 

Again let this be a lesson. Do don't assume that more timing is better for efficiency. In my case with the super cold air (<80*F IAT) ECM is toss quite a bit of timing on top of the tune. Yesterday's run the weather warmed up in the 30's and the snow was melting I I was bouncing just over the 80*F mark and the timing started retarding back to normal. MPG's started rising back to the 20's. Right now I've got no numbers being my tune is kind of fudged till I get my fooler back on line again. 

Now that I've replaced my high idle / MPG fooler cable. I took a test drive today to see how it would react kind of a poor day to get good reading being the IAT temperature is well in the 80's and the fooler made little impact on the timing. It did how ever make a impact on the warm timing while the Quadzilla is still disable during its warm up process (Coolant <160*F). The timing was reduced and MPG's still remained higher than without. 

 

So I've got another trip to do in the morning so I'll have a good test bed in the morning for testing the MPG fooler against the Quadzilla. 

Finally getting a grasp of this new App and tuning features. I broke over 21 MPG. 

 

Things I did learn. 

• MPG Fooler. This is awesome combo for custom tuning. Being it fixes the IAT temperature to 143*F and locks it in place it makes it super easy to build timing curve that fit your driving style. If you happen to own a high idle kit and Quadzilla enable the MPG fooler and start building a tune it will give you an even playground. Also @Me78569 and I found out that temps below +80*F will make the ECM add even more timing killing the tune as temperatures wander up and down. All along I was attempting to build tune without the MPG fooler thinking it would muddy the waters too much. Actually makes for a very stable tuning platform.
• You can crank up a bit more timing that you figured on your Cruise Timing Adv then using the the Fuel Load Timing to pull the timing back down based on load. This gives you the ability of having a really high timing under very low loads like slight downhill runs. Then as the load comes on the setting will pull the timing down up to 3* of timing. This is great for my kind of travel being I could run along a flat valley then climb a grade at the far end of the valley. Giving some retarded timing  bring the torque curve back down allowing the engine to build power after the load is gone allowing to return to high timing again. 
• Do not attempt to build a one tune fits all. I've attempted this and failed. You'll find the requirements for a good economy tune will be way different from a good performance tune. You constantly fight to get good MPG's then once you get the MPG's tune right the power will feel off and you go back to tweaking and now your power is back but now your MPG tune is back in the toilet. Make sure to stay focused on the type of tune you are attempting to build. Quadzilla give you all kinds of room for building many tunes take advantage of this and separate your tunes by purpose. 
• Don't be afraid to try some wild settings. Some times you'll find other neat secrets to building power or MPG tunes. 
• Optimally you need to be able to watch feedback from the engine to build a good tune. Like I'm using the OBDLink LX and a Android Tablet. I've got horsepower, torque, engine load, Instant MPG, total MPG and both IAT and ECT temperatures. I know the Quadzilla has some of these gauges but missing the MPG and power gauges. This gives me at least a rough measurement of if the tune is better or worse but changing a setting on timing and/or fuel. 
• Go back over your tunes often and double check yourself. I've made errors in my tunes being either tired, in a hurry, or just having a dumb moment. It helps to review your setting often to catch mistakes. 

One note @Mopar1973Man fuel load timing actually works opposite to your thinking. Think of fuel load timing as a buffer or a weight to your rpm timing tuning.  You will never get more than your rpm setting, but your fuel load timing dedicates how much of your rpm timing is related to load.  If load is at 100% you get the full timing value.