Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

I don't know if it is possible to have a choice in place to have the app dictate where the export gets saved.   The perk of using the "intent" function of android allows the user to choose what to do with it.   What you see pop up when you hit export is the intent function asking the user how they want to handle the action you requested.  This is a fundamental android function that pretty much makes a system wide API.

 

Personally I would not use a natively built in save function because I just use Google drive.  It automatically syncs.

 

So if the cost of having a natively built in export save function removes the intent function of the app / android then I think it is a step backwards and I would be very unhappy.  I don't want to be limited to only saving the export file to a location on the device.  This is why I suggest have a folder program installed on the drive so when you call the Android intent process it finds that program and does what you want.

 

The way it is setup now is a future proof method or exporting data.

So I'm still not understanding the timing parameters despite watching the tutorial vid and reading the in depth article here as well as on quads website. 

 

I have stock injectors right now. Hopefully that changes soon. 

 

I drove truck today and watched the timing carefully at about 60-65 mph/2100-2300 rims. I have 4:10 gears with 285 tires. Timing seemed to hover at 17.20-17.67, I watched it and it didn't go up to 17.7 at all. Despite having my cruise timing advance at 3*. Should I set it higher just for cruise state? And then set the load timing offset to 3 that way it pulls more timing when I get higher boost and I don't end up with head gasket problems. 

Try 5* just make sure your cruise psi limit is set correctly to disable if your load increases.

 

I would save your tune again and then load the tune again to ensure it sticks, 17* seems low.

I don't think you getting into cruise state and still in performance state. Make sure you boost on the Quadzilla isn't exceeding the cruise boost state. Make sure you holding throttle even and steady. You should hear it and see it flip to cruise timing. 

I agree with Moparman.  What's your tune?

I hope its ok to post screenshots of my tune, if not tell me and I'll just type it out on the deal Mike made up in the custom tune thread. 

 

I really liked the way my edge fueled on 5x5....I'm trying mimic that and get good MPG. 

 

I could pull 14K #s on level 2x3 on the edge....that was a very good level....EGTs would never climb past 1100, even if I accidently lugged it. 

 

Getting my head wrapped around this timing deal and the cause ad effect is rather difficult for me. Thanks guys!

 

 

EDIT: Would me posting exported data help? 

Edited February 27, 20178 yr by crf450ish

Exporting data always helps,that will tell us what the truck is doing rather than trying to guess.

 

If you want more meat then bump your canbus fueling more.  You won't hurt anything.

 

Also on stock injectors if you want more bottom end reduce your pump low boost scale psi from 8 to 1 or 2 if you want it to drive like the edge on 5x5. Setting it at 8 means you get 0 wiretap until 8 psi.  Good setting for bigger injectors but not so much stock fueling.

 

Rest of the tune seems good.  From my testing only timing really has changed mpg much.  Fueling doesn't do much so long as wiretap isn't going crazy.

So to gain more mpg while cruising, just add to the cruise timing. But then how do I assure that theres not TOO much timing being added when The engines under load, other than max load offset?

@Me78569 I have been trying like hell to get a tank where I didn't pull anything but haven't had much luck until today.  Went on a 4 hour detour today running around 65mph and filled up twice with two different tunes just to see if I could get the truck to register some mileage.  First tank with high timing, sat around 19.5-20 while running 65, averaged 14.6mpg.  Now I was running into a little head wind but nothing that should have dropped me into trailer mileage territory.  So I figured I would go the other way and run less aggressive timing and sure enough ended up netting 17.4 with timing hovering around 17.5-18.

 

Still need to do a little hunting for the sweet spot but I have no doubt in my mind that I will be able to touch at least 18.  Not terribly great considering what yall are pulling but definitely better than what I have seen.  Still not sure if it's due to the HO motor, but I can definitely say that the higher timing hurts my mileage significantly. 

And max timing in the equalizer parameters only means timing won't go above whatever you set it at, at max engine load %, right?

 

But that doesn't apply to cruise state timing?

 

@crf450ish Timing is good to an extent.  I think the generally consensus is 18-20 is about what you need to aim for while cruising.  Too much timing just seems to cause some weird idle characteristics that we have not been able to explain.  Keep it under 20 and you should be fine.

5 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

And max timing in the equalizer parameters only means timing won't go above whatever you set it at, at max engine load %, right?

To my understanding it's more of a set point rather than a limiter.  For instance, you can set it at 30 degrees at 3k but it won't necessarily be able to attain that.  I've seen it in the logs before but it gets rough above 26.

 

 

5 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

But that doesn't apply to cruise state timing?

 

Correct.

Max timing setting is above 3k rpm it wont go over that.  Max fuel load timing sets how much of that rpm timing is related to load %. So in order to reach that timing limit you set you would have to be at %100 canbus fueling.

 

Each truck will be different at cruise state.  My truck likes to sit at 20* at 65. Yours might like 17* or 19*.  Issue is I am no tuning genius I just created the interface lol.  All I know for tuning is what works on my truck.

9 hours ago, crf450ish said:

But then how do I assure that theres not TOO much timing being added

 

You'll hear it. The rattle will get rather pronounced. 

 

I've got to update me tune log again I jump up to 1.9% on the fuel map really got some power building but now I've got to watch the smoke amount and the EGT's actually bounces off the EGT limit at 1,300*F compared to my economy tune which you could mat it and take nearly everything to touch 1,200*F. 

9 hours ago, crf450ish said:

And max timing in the equalizer parameters only means timing won't go above whatever you set it at, at max engine load %, right?

 

But that doesn't apply to cruise state timing?

 

 

 

Performance timing slider vs cruise state timing are different. You can limit performance say 16* at 1500 RPM and then be at 1600 RPM with a cruise timing of 20*. So no the max timing does not limit the cruise timing but it does limit the performance timing. 

17 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I am no tuning genius I just created the interface lol.  All I know for tuning is what works on my truck.

 

I'm also learning quickly at what the tuning game is all about. With all the stuff I read about P7100 timing and tuning you figure that would help... Nope. The only thing I can give is that the general idea of timing is more advancement moves the torque curve up in RPM's. So it's a matter of figuring out this torque curve and getting the timing to push it along at the same rate as your throttling or cruising. So there is no set magical point or way of copying someone's tune to hit dead on. You might get close but you'll always be tweaking just a wee bit to get the most out of it.

39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

. So there is no set magical point or way of copying someone's tune to hit dead on. You might get close but you'll always be tweaking just a wee bit to get the most out of it.

really it comes down to the more tuning you do the better the truck will run, but you can get "most of the way there" by using someone else's tune.   If it runs good enough at that point then fine. 

I am building an article with before and after video.  If you have any will you post them up so I can get them put in the article? 

 

I have tfaoro, and carb and myself right now.  

iQuad-2017-02-27-12.31.14.csv

Heres some data. Drove for like 10 mins on a good flat straight road @ around 2k rpm 65 mph.

looks like it didn't upload successfully. only ~20 lines in the export.  Try to attach to the site again.

Edited the csv dump out

Edited February 27, 20178 yr by Me78569

@crf450ish  I dont know that your data log is good.  The last post was just CSV data pasted into the post.  

Hmm. I'll have to try again. I Just drive for a while then export it right? 

Dude sorry for posting a bunch of nonsense ? I didn't know what else to do.