Ok, I have a 98.5 24v 5 speed gvrw of 10,500.00 and a 50' kaufman car hauler trailer, How do I know how much weight I can to with it? I plan on staying below 26000 lbs as its a heck of a lot harder to structure the business with that much weight plus I think its above what the truck can handle (possibly). I just worry that my truck is to small for this work but then again I see people toting cars around all the time in 1 ton dually diesels.. Do I have anything to worry about?Thanks.

Technically, the limit is around 15k if you look at truck specs. Obviously people go over this all the time. Your truck will go up to 26,000lbs fine but you should drive slow. I wouldn't go over 60mph if I had over 15k. You can license the truck for whatever you want but the DOT can get really picky and chew you out for being over the trucks towing limit. As long as the actual tongue weight doesn't exceed the trucks payload, it will be fine. I see people all the time with 4 cars on their cummins.

Talk to CajFlynn... He hauls boats cross country some that are even wide loads...

We have a local guy here who tows daily at over 40k lbs. And he passes everyone once he gets wound up. has a 99 4X4 dually ext cab and has a 40 foot gooseneck and hauls a 580 case backhoe and 1845 case skidsteer at the same time.Plus a loaded tools box and diesel service tank in the box. He is also too cheap to upgrade to a better clutch and has hired help blow the center out of the stock clutch about every 6 months. Rig is 100% stock. Not endorsing this type of action but just letting you know what is possible.

  Wild and Free said:

We have a local guy here who tows daily at over 40k lbs. And he passes everyone once he gets wound up. has a 99 4X4 dually ext cab and has a 40 foot gooseneck and hauls a 580 case backhoe and 1845 case skidsteer at the same time.

Plus a loaded tools box and diesel service tank in the box.

He is also too cheap to upgrade to a better clutch and has hired help blow the center out of the stock clutch about every 6 months. Rig is 100% stock.

Not endorsing this type of action but just letting you know what is possible.

No kidding... Even with trialer brakes that's just a wee bit scary for weight... I remember hauling a Backhoe to my place from New Meadows (20 miles) and I did have a trailer brake... talk about plenty of power to drag but even with the E Brake and service brake you need more room to stop...

So in the long haul you should stick to the GVWR that is in the owners manual... The truck will thank you...

I have some information that may help here.

1. The CGVWR is a manufacturers suggestion. It is only a suggestion. The DOT does not look at that number. They probably don't even know what it means.

2. Every state is different in how much weight they let you tow. Some states require a CDL if you tow trailer with GVWR's over 10k. In Florida if you are over 15k on the trailer then you need to have a CDL and a bigger truck.

That being said I can easily tow over 20k with my truck. I say the biggest factor in what you tow should be the size of your trailer brakes.

---------- Post added at 04:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 AM ----------

  Mopar1973Man said:

Talk to CajFlynn... He hauls boats cross country some that are even wide loads...

I rarely tow anything under 10ft wide. Wide and heavy pays the best.

My trailer is a 18k trailer with electric brakes on 3 6-7k lb dexter axles.Thanks.

  cajflynn said:

I have some information that may help here. 2. Every state is different in how much weight they let you tow. Some states require a CDL if you tow trailer with GVWR's over 10k. In Florida if you are over 15k on the trailer then you need to have a CDL and a bigger truck.

The Federal Motor Carrier Administration states that if the vehicle weighs 26,001# or more then you are required to have a CDL from your state. That is Federal Law. It also states that any vehicle (trailer) in tow regardless of the towing vehicles weighs 10,001 or more then you must have a CDL. A lot of States will give exemptions on this for recreational vehicles, such as toy haulers. Appears that Florida (and every other state I have looked up) operates off the same laws so I would be careful towing in excess of 10,001 pounds, you could be in for a ticket. http://www.dmvflorida.org/commercial-license.shtml

I tow boats across the country. I get lots of permits for over 10k lbs trailer loads and none have required a CDL. The Florida permit states I am good to 15k lbs on the trailer without a CDL. I have been stopped in many states and I have heard some say they thought I should have a CDL if I am over 10k but every DOT officer that has looked it up said I was ok. I don't want to argue about the laws. I am not a cop or a lawyer. I am just relaying my experience. It could be that boats are not looked at the same as flatbeds and the rules are slightly different. Another interesting note was the weight most DOT officers looked at (when not at the scales) was not the actual weight on the trailer but rather the GVWR stated on the trailer. They (Arizona and Oklahoma DOT) told me the I could not pull trailers if the gvwr of the trailer and the gvwr of the truck added together was over 26k lbs. The actual weight was not relevant if the gvwr's were over 26k.

Hey cajflynn Saw you SIG and know michael talks about your cross country trips. Curious on any general advice for towing --- figured you'd know -- spefically around Towing in O/D ???J-HOOK and ETG'sMPG's3x TC - wot you have and do you think required over a single (and if so why) ? I am gonna try and beef up my trans with a TC and shiftkit or new new VB. And see where I am at.Was thinking of the j-hookget pretty crappy MPG towing 9000lbsno idea on O/D - have heard people say yes and no. other ?

I can tell you how I do it with my truck. I know a lot of people have opinions on how to tow but this is what works best for me.1. I tow in OD. If you don't you will never get there because you can only go 50 mph. I also get better mileage in OD. I do downshift when I am pulling a hill and my speed gets to 53mph. I shift before the truck does. Then I hold the turbo at 20 lbs of boost until I get to the top.2. I have always had the j-hook. With 90hp injectors and a power puck I don't have egt problems. I try to run my truck with 12 lbs of boost. That is where I get the best mileage. It is also where the turbo whistles the loudest. I can hear when I am at the right speed.3. The three disc TC is awesome. Your transmission will run much cooler and last a lot longer. There are two parts to the equation. 1. The multi discs. 2. The stall speed. My stall speed is set at 1600. If I had it to do over again I would set it at 1800. The lower stall speed helps a lot for towing. I got my transmission rebuilt for $1100 in Los Angeles. It is just starting to show signs of age at 250k miles. I put a transgo shift kit in it.4. MPG. This has a lot to do with what you are towing. Drag is more of a factor than weight. I get anywhere from 9 to 12 mpg's with a 9,000 lb load. If you want good mileage you have to drive right. What I mean is you have to keep your momentum up as much as you can. Speed down hills and hold constant speeds up hills. Trying to accelerate heavy loads uphill is a waste of time and money. Keeping your truck's rpm's in the right range will make a huge difference. I haven't gone over 2200 rpms in a long time. I would just get a shift kit. That is all a new VB is. Don't waste your money buying parts you already have. A lot of people make nice shiftkits. I check my fluids, air filter (get a bhaf) and tire pressures a lot. Simple things can make a big difference on mpg's and keep maintenance costs down. That being said if you are towing heavy things parts will break. Every nut on the truck will rattle off at some point. My favorite towing upgrade is on my brakes. I went to a junkyard a bought third gen calipers for $80. Two new rotors and some pads and I was stopping a lot better. Then I put the 1 ton cylinders in the rear drums and tied the portion valve arm all the way up. My truck can now stop 9000lbs a lot better. In the end stopping is more important than going.

  cajflynn said:

I can tell you how I do it with my truck. I know a lot of people have opinions on how to tow but this is what works best for me. 1. I tow in OD. If you don't you will never get there because you can only go 50 mph. I also get better mileage in OD. I do downshift when I am pulling a hill and my speed gets to 53mph. I shift before the truck does. Then I hold the turbo at 20 lbs of boost until I get to the top. 2. I have always had the j-hook. With 90hp injectors and a power puck I don't have egt problems. I try to run my truck with 12 lbs of boost. That is where I get the best mileage. It is also where the turbo whistles the loudest. I can hear when I am at the right speed. 3. The three disc TC is awesome. Your transmission will run much cooler and last a lot longer. There are two parts to the equation. 1. The multi discs. 2. The stall speed. My stall speed is set at 1600. If I had it to do over again I would set it at 1800. The lower stall speed helps a lot for towing. I got my transmission rebuilt for $1100 in Los Angeles. It is just starting to show signs of age at 250k miles. I put a transgo shift kit in it. 4. MPG. This has a lot to do with what you are towing. Drag is more of a factor than weight. I get anywhere from 9 to 12 mpg's with a 9,000 lb load. If you want good mileage you have to drive right. What I mean is you have to keep your momentum up as much as you can. Speed down hills and hold constant speeds up hills. Trying to accelerate heavy loads uphill is a waste of time and money. Keeping your truck's rpm's in the right range will make a huge difference. I haven't gone over 2200 rpms in a long time. I would just get a shift kit. That is all a new VB is. Don't waste your money buying parts you already have. A lot of people make nice shiftkits. I check my fluids, air filter (get a bhaf) and tire pressures a lot. Simple things can make a big difference on mpg's and keep maintenance costs down. That being said if you are towing heavy things parts will break. Every nut on the truck will rattle off at some point. My favorite towing upgrade is on my brakes. I went to a junkyard a bought third gen calipers for $80. Two new rotors and some pads and I was stopping a lot better. Then I put the 1 ton cylinders in the rear drums and tied the portion valve arm all the way up. My truck can now stop 9000lbs a lot better. In the end stopping is more important than going.

1) thanks Good to confirm with someone who 'knows' from experience 2) How do you keep the boost at 12 ? Just with the accelerator ? 3) Yeah was just gonna go single as only at 350HP - and people say this is enough - but figure 3x disk is $300 more and if I sell truck will probably hold value. Was going to do the transgo shift kit -> but not sure how hard to do ......... but I like its $100 instead of $350 ........... Revmaxx have a VB wih shiftkit and upgraded electronics (guessing governor solenoid and pressure solenoid) - then VB becomes $500 with shift kit and electronics. Will get stall speed of 1800 - I tow - but not that often. 9000lbs. 4) Yeah I get around 10mpg towing 9000lbs , but that was before chip - so hoping once 3x convertor and VB/shift kit might pick up 1-2MPG. Brakes - yes - I had a mate recommend the exact same thing you mentioned. Taking th 1 tonne breaking and seeing if I can put on my truck. Will have to investigate this as I hate stopping with that thing especially with the way people drive unaware you can't stop that quick ......... new respect for people/trucks now when I am not towing. Try to keep out of their way thanks cajflynn

I keep my boost level constant with my foot. After a while it gets pretty easy. The transgo is not too hard to install. A DTT might be a better kit and definetaly comes with better service. Maybe goerend makes one too. Wildandfree would know if they did. You will find that a lower stall speed will help with mileage too.

  cajflynn said:

I keep my boost level constant with my foot. After a while it gets pretty easy. The transgo is not too hard to install. A DTT might be a better kit and definetaly comes with better service. Maybe goerend makes one too. Wildandfree would know if they did. You will find that a lower stall speed will help with mileage too.

Thanks. You guys rock !!!!