Hey guys - I could use some help.

 

I've done a ton of mods to this truck and I have two issues - plus I suspect I should be getting a lot more performance.

 

1.  Very difficult to start in cold weather.  If I don't have the block heater plugged in I get a ton of white smoke and it's very hard to start until the temp reading hits about 50.  This is with the Edge set on level zero.  Once it hits a certain temperature boom!  It's like a light switch and it runs great though it still smokes (whitish) while the extra fuel burns off.  Floor pedal does nothing until it runs, Edge says APP is reporting correct positioning.   I can hear the grid heater go 'clunk' when the key is turned on and I've checked the fuse.  Fuel is good and I've even added anti-gel though it isn't near cold enough for that to matter.

 

2. Pulling a load, uphill, 4th in lockup I get a shudder at about 1,800 RPM through about 2,100 RPM.  Does it worse under load though I can still feel it on a hill without a load.  I have a trans lockup switch installed and If I force it into lockup it makes no difference.  I can force it into third and force lockup and with the RPM boosted to about 2,200 the issue is very subtle to non-existent.  I suspect compression stall.  This seems to have started right after the Hamilton cam was added.

 

Other observations:  Heavy black smoke when starting from a stop sign regardless of edge setting.  MAP sensor is reporting pressure to the Edge (the edge is just an in-line insertion between the MAP and wiring harness) but if I disconnect the MAP completely it seems to make no difference to performance (I'm wondering if there's a break in the wiring harness and that's why it's over fueling).  No check engine light when first disconnected though after fooling with it a half dozen times I now have a CEL that won't clear.

 

Help, guidance, wisdom and 401k contributions gladly accepted.

Mishimoto radiators for second gen dodge:

 

I just pulled out my FIFTH one in a bit over two years.  Hoses are new, no galvanic issues, even replaced the water pump once while I had it out just for fun.  With me swapping out so often the coolant can't possibly get old.

 

Their radiators blows a hole in the core after anywhere between 2 and 4 months.  They'll pass an initial pressure test but will fail pretty soon after the install.  It's almost always in the same location but since there's 4 ways to orient the core when attaching the end tanks I can't tell you exactly where it will blow on one you might buy.

 

There's a mechanic at the shop that does a lot of my work with a Ford and he's on his third Mishi radiator - I wonder if it's the same core with different end tanks?

 

It's not a big hole so you'll have plenty of time to wait for a warm day and for the warranty swap to arrive.   They will insist on a photo of the leak so hopefully you won't have to pull it out for the photo then put it back until the replacement arrives.  I only had to do that once.

 

They will ask you to pay them $100 for every warranty swap, and they won't ask for the old one back.

 

It's a great looking unit and the fit and finish are outstanding if you can get past the "doesn't work" feature.

3 minutes ago, OverToyed said:

Mishimoto radiators for second gen dodge:

 

I just pulled out my FIFTH one in a bit over two years.  Hoses are new, no galvanic issues, even replaced the water pump once while I had it out just for fun.  With me swapping out so often the coolant can't possibly get old.

 

Their radiators blows a hole in the core after anywhere between 2 and 4 months.  They'll pass an initial pressure test but will fail pretty soon after the install.  It's almost always in the same location but since there's 4 ways to orient the core when attaching the end tanks I can't tell you exactly where it will blow on one you might buy.

 

There's a mechanic at the shop that does a lot of my work with a Ford and he's on his third Mishi radiator - I wonder if it's the same core with different end tanks?

 

It's not a big hole so you'll have plenty of time to wait for a warm day and for the warranty swap to arrive.   They will insist on a photo of the leak so hopefully you won't have to pull it out for the photo then put it back until the replacement arrives.  I only had to do that once.

 

They will ask you to pay them $100 for every warranty swap, and they won't ask for the old one back.

 

It's a great looking unit and the fit and finish are outstanding if you can get past the "doesn't work" feature.

 

That's the one that makes me nervous. 

My guess, and this is just a guess, is they have a high profit margin and a warranty replace deal with the factory in China.  They certainly aren't going to send it back to China except as beer cans.  But they send my photo of the leaky unit to china as evidence,.

 

Since China is covering them with a new unit and the $100 covers shipping of the replacement they've already banked the profit and don't much care.

 

I should add that they were pretty quick with the replacements, typically no more than a week with UPS ground shipping, and they did give me a full refund when I asked for the first time after installing the fifth one.  I did not need to get upity or push them for it.  They were not difficult to deal with at all - just leaky.

That does suck. Thank goodness it is a easy part to replace. Swapped my od out on the side of the interstate when it blew. Are replacing the anti freeze each time? That and the 100 bucks would add to the "sucks' factor big time.

I don't have anything clean to catch the antifreeze in except an oily bucket when swapping them so yep, used fresh fluid every time.  I'm pretty fast at swapping them now.  The cheapo replacement I just got from Auotzone didn't go in nearly as easily as a Mishi as the drain valve just barely clears the intercooler outlet pipe.

 

But, all's well that ends!  I hope!

OK.  New Iquad is installed.

 

I wish the mods you guys have installed were easier to follow on the mod database page.  It's hard to figure out who has what, also I see only about 9 setup parameters for custom tuning on my android unit.  I have a starting point tune that tech support sent me nut only a few of the fields they sent are available on my unit to change.

 

Here's what they sent:, but I don't see most of these settings available.

 

Fuel Load Timing:2

Low PSI Timing Reduct:2

Timing Reduct Scaling: 100

Cruise Timing Adv: 3

Timing vs rpm 

1500: 16

2000: 18

2500: 23

3000: 25

Timing Max: 26

 

Pump Stretch: 1750

TPS Pump max: 100

TPS Pump Min 20

Pump Low Boost Limit: 8

Pump Low Boost Scale %: 0

 

Boost Scaling: 40

 

RPM Limit: 3400

 

Power Reduction: 35

 

0 PSI %: 87

1 PSI %: 88

2 PSI %: 89

3 PSI %: 90

4 PSI %: 91

5 PSI %: 92

6 PSI %: 93

7 PSI %: 94

8 PSI %: 95

9 PSI %: 96

10 PSI %: 98

11 PSI %: 100

12 PSI %: 102

13 PSI %: 104

14 PSI %: 106

15 PSI %: 108

16 PSI %: 110

18 PSI %: 114

20 PSI %: 118

22 PSI %: 122

24 PSI %: 126

26 PSI %: 130

28 PSI %: 134

30 PSI %: 138

 

"This is designed to be a daily driver tune on a truck with a VGT and 120HP injectors. Your twin setup and size of injectors should be compatible with this tune. The only thing that I think may cause you any kind of grief is the timing just based off your Hamilton Cam. I'm not sure how it messes with the timing, but if it adds or retards the timing you should take that into account when building your timing section"

 

Edited February 4, 20178 yr by OverToyed

in the vehicle section on the Iquad unit what do you have?  Ensure you choose the V2 vehicle out of the list.  that's what tells the phone what tuning parameters to use.  

 

 

Jackpot!

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

in the vehicle section on the Iquad unit what do you have?  Ensure you choose the V2 vehicle out of the list.  that's what tells the phone what tuning parameters to use.  

 

 

 

OverToyed. Do you want to sell your Edge CTS2?