Hey guys

Ok - onto next part of the equation.

The TC and VB are ordered - and should be here in a around 1 week.

Thought I would ask for advice on dropping and reinstalling the tranny as well as the TC/VB replacement.

Any thoughts or guidelines from experience. ??

I have heard the TC and the cross members can be a pain ......................

Any special tools or techniques help ?

Things to watch out for ?

thanks

John

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ----------

Oh - and yes- I am getting some help also

hahahaha - thought I would beat W+F telling me to do so *joke*

If it was at 240 at the hot line that is way to hot, you should see in the same range as what the engine temp is unless you are sitting in stop and go traffic for long periods ect with it in gear it will get a bit hotter but not that hot, I would keep it under 220. What port are you talking about for the mechanical gauge? The one on the passenger side, servo port? If you saw 180 there and 240 at the hot line is about right but it is getting too hot for some reason, did you recheck the oil level?

Hey mate - ok here's the info I am going to talk with vendor tomorrow. I am prepared for a new trans - thats kinda why I wanted to do this part myself cause I wanted to learn and half expect I may need to get a tranny guy to install trans.Anyway - this is what happens - thanks again for all the help guysAnytime the TC is not locked up - the truck feels really laboured - almost like the e-brake is on - or I am not in low enough gear, or something slipping. This is where the heat builds and quick - like 150 -210 in 3 miles (in the hotline).A soon as the TC locks in - the power feels good - and the temps drop dramatically - like from 210 down to 170 in minutes. And good power.I am now throwing P1762+p1763 which I think areP1762 Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too HighI know you can adjust the fuel pressure in the VB if its too high, I also know you can replace the goveror pressure sensor etc - but this VB should have all new electronics ( I paid extra for that - but will confirm exactly was was done tomorrow)

Did you pinch a wire during install??? A lot of times when you short a wire to ground it creates a HI volt code...

Sorry to hear all of your bad luck and this is why I hat my auto when I had problems overheating I had to dig one of the rubber check balls out that I forgot about thank god it was that easy but I still think that upgraded vavle bodys in a porley designed transmissions just isnt the ticket I need a new tranny and I am just pushing mine out I dont know what others think but I would the cooling systems for our trannys is there demise I wish I had something intelligent to say to help you out but its probably a pinched or cut wire in a bs connection as mike kinda indicated they make these things to darn complex now days at least for some (computer controlled 24 valves and auto)

If you look at a PCM on a manual trans the PCM is like got no wires... I bet the Auto trans has ton of wire going to the PCM...

Sorry to hear all of your bad luck and this is why I hat my auto when I had problems overheating I had to dig one of the rubber check balls out that I forgot about thank god it was that easy but I still think that upgraded vavle bodys in a porley designed transmissions just isnt the ticket I need a new tranny and I am just pushing mine out I dont know what others think but I would the cooling systems for our trannys is there demise I wish I had something intelligent to say to help you out but its probably a pinched or cut wire in a bs connection as mike kinda indicated they make these things to darn complex now days at least for some (computer controlled 24 valves and auto)

Yeah - I wish I had bought a good manual 12v now and just wacked in a good flywheel and clutch - lmao. Anyway - spoke with my guy - he's gonna send another valve body - he said we could both spend too much time trying to figure it out - so it'll ship tomorrow. Gonna have a mechanic do this one - can't afford spilling any more atf fluid on my mates parents house - and I can't do any work here - rv park. Was an interesting exercise for someone 6 months ago hadn't even changed brake pads on his car to now dropping the tranny/TC/VB Was fun - would I do it again - not quickly Now I just need to find a half decent tranny guy near STL MO ........ Going for the mosts posts in single thread moparman history

Did you pinch a wire during install??? A lot of times when you short a wire to ground it creates a HI volt code...

Actually a pinched wire would be a dead short to ground and would throw a low voltage code an open or cut wire is what throws a high voltage code.

So if my truck is in limp mode with those codesCan I clear it by leaving the -ve battery cables diconnected ??any ideas ? Just want to get it out of limp mode when I drive it to the tranny guy to do my new VB rather than trying to start in 3rd each time.

Nope if it is in limp it will keep going to limp until the problem is fixed. When I did my BD VB it had a bad solenoid from BD and did the same thing and I had to replace it with another. Funny how electrical components can give fits out of the blue.

Nope if it is in limp it will keep going to limp until the problem is fixed. When I did my BD VB it had a bad solenoid from BD and did the same thing and I had to replace it with another. Funny how electrical components can give fits out of the blue.

I don't know what to say .........except At least its happened to someone else - I thought man what are the chances it happens to a noob - yet I was really careful (and it aint that hard from above) - might be a bit different from the bottom with those dastardly e-clips My local mechanic wants $200 for a VB install and tranny flush - and thats me supplying the tranny fluid. ....... I like the guy but he wasn't sure how to do the tranny flush - so I am thinking I need to find a decent tranny guy - just in case issues moving forward. onward and ?upward?

Not MIA - just had nothing to talk about as too depressed about my truck - still on the bench.

So have replaced new torque converter and VB. Then threw p1762+p1763. They sent me another VB with new solenoids but lower pressure and she acted screwy but no codes.

Now they want me to put back the original VB that threw codes - and they are going to play with the line pressure as well as add a resisistor to the PCM if required (input/line 31 or something).

So will see how that goes ............... beyond that I am not sure ............... might have to order a new tranny and just be done with it:cry:

---------- Post added at 07:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:02 AM ----------

Here is a very similar thread/situation if any1 interested

Will know more friday.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/186150-47re-line-pressure-gov-pressure-issues.html

Apparently the new VB are not meant to require the resistor - but thats where we are heading - once we check the voltage with the VB back in.

---------- Post added at 09:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:10 AM ----------

oooooooooohhhhhhhhh ............... it might be fixed

mechanic said he added some more tranny fluid - and things much better ............... no codes, have 1st gear back ............ gonna get him to drive a little more and then I am going out to check the shifts and temps

If all good - PARTY AT MY HOUSE !!!!! (well .... RV)

If all good - PARTY AT MY HOUSE !!!!! (well .... RV)

Around what time? At least it's almost fixed and should hold the power for once. Keep us updated

Woo Hoo - ok ISX - we need a boys fishing trip Picked up the truck - shifts like a dream all gears nice and firm.Temps on the hot line around 160-175 when cruising, maximum I have seen is 198 when stop/start. So all looks good - still breaking her in a little W+F - what temps are ok on the hot line when towing up a hill ??? Its amazing how much more idea of temps you get from this than the silly test port which just kinda sits in the middle not matter what. So I am all on board with that great tip. Will monitor and update - then gonna do a writeup (clean) of everything from start to finish Including the awesome service I got from the company - RevMax - but will hold out for at least a week or so to see it all stays same WOO HOO

W+F - what temps are ok on the hot line when towing up a hill ??? Its amazing how much more idea of temps you get from this than the silly test port which just kinda sits in the middle not matter what. So I am all on board with that great tip.

Glad to hear it finally came together for ya. Temps will vary greatly depending on conditions,load, ambient temp, speed, weather or not the tc is locked or not ect. It would be safest to keep it under 220. Higher temps for a very short time with synthetic oil won't hurt it but not too often if so more frequent oil changes are needed. If its over 220 I would let it cool down a bit before continuing.

Glad to hear it finally came together for ya. Temps will vary greatly depending on conditions,load, ambient temp, speed, weather or not the tc is locked or not ect. It would be safest to keep it under 220. Higher temps for a very short time with synthetic oil won't hurt it but not too often if so more frequent oil changes are needed. If its over 220 I would let it cool down a bit before continuing.

Yeah put in a drain valve so I can change fluid more frequently for that very reason. Anyone apart from Jim(SASQCH) use an auxilliary tranny cooler ? Any recommendations ? ta dudes

In my neck of the country extra tranny coolers are not needed much. If a rig spant a lot of time in stop and go traffic or towing in such I would be more prone to steer people towards dual electric fans versus adding extra coolers.

In my neck of the country extra tranny coolers are not needed much. If a rig spant a lot of time in stop and go traffic or towing in such I would be more prone to steer people towards dual electric fans versus adding extra coolers.

will check that out - cost and ease of install

In my neck of the country extra tranny coolers are not needed much. If a rig spant a lot of time in stop and go traffic or towing in such I would be more prone to steer people towards dual electric fans versus adding extra coolers.

I tend to agree... I think the reason why the stop and go traffic is so hard on it is because there is little to no air movment... Kind of like riding my Goldwing in Boise, ID traffic. It would climb the temp gauge quick and high... But I added a toggle switch to force the fan on. Well that cured most of the problems with slow driving in towns... But for a Cummins since the fan is belt driven your going to need a electric fan like W&F mention...

whats the cheapest/easiest way to do that ?I can add a extra tranny cooler for like $300 ........

I think flexalite actually makes a set of dual electric fans for the cummins application for around 500-600 bucks. The problem with adding another cooler is giving you nothing but added capacity and while driving in city stop and go traffic you still have the same problem of lack of enough airflow to cool things down, it may take a bit longer to heat up the extra oil but it will eventually heat up just the same without a way to flow air to disipate the heat.