Hey guys,

 

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157

 

So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though.

 

Other interesting links:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search

http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html

I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming

Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5

 

Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself.

 

I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. 

 

Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

 

 

 

 

 

If you are reading boost using the edge monitor they like to max out around 40psi for some reason. Had this issue when I was still vp powered.

 

Simple fact is if you want 600whp none of the injectors you have will support it. I have my personal favorites and know some others that build very nice injectors and would give you sticker shock over what ddp charges for their stuff.

 

If you want to drag race and run decent times, yes a lockup switch is needed.

 

Yes boosted launches will kill drivetrain parts. Oddly enough I do not seem to go through them like others. These trucks can be pretty tough.

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Man, wow. Why would the WTS light come on if the engine is warm? I know there's the bulb check, but didn't this site (and the FSM) have the chart with how long it stays on for, for a given temp out? I don't recall it ever staying on when the engine was warm or it was warm out. My truck has gone thru 3 alternators somehow. I'm hoping those days are behind me. My batteries are at 12.7v resting. Two 2 yr old yellow top Oltimas.

Be very clear, does the WTS light come on EVERY Time you key on?  If the truck is warm it should turn off right away, but it still comes on.  

Yes, the WTS comes on every time I turn the key on. Instantly Im pretty sure, but I will take a short video to be sure. I previously bought a brand new Bosch alternator from Napa, the 136amp, because I read how problematic they were. I had also bought a new Mean Green in the past, when I had the motor installed, and I was told it was defective. So it got returned rather than swapped to save down time.

 

This morning, after talking to you guys, I noticed the WTS light didnt stay on, but my voltage was still going from 12.7 to 13.7. I could hear it in the motor initially, that's what made me look. The analog cluster doesnt show it, but my Edge display does. I was surprised, because the WTS light didnt come on, so I didnt think the grids would be cycling. The truck did start up without a hard start. I noticed my water separator drain was weeping ever so slightly, so I tightened it extra good n tight and hope that fixes my hard start. Otherwise the only thing left is the rubber fittings on the brass return T.

 

The truck is warm now, so I'll take the video of the WTS. When I previously measured AC voltage I thought it was low enough, but I cant recall if it was .01 (I think it was) or .1v. In my head I think .01-.03 was all that Moparman said was tolerable. There's a good chance those values are wrong in my head, so I'll measure it again here shortly.

IF the WTS light comes on everytime right away then you are fine.  You had made it sound like you had hard start issues when the WTS light didn't come on.  

Ya, by not coming on I thought it would be clear that meant staying on after the bulb check. My bad. I remember clearly the truck was running real good, I had no problems with it besides my AirDog dropping pressure down to 8-10psi on WOT pulls. That's why I took it in for a ECM reflash, because in their manual they say to do that.

 

Fast forward, I never got the ECM reflash, I got a PCM reflash, I had hard starts after that. Airdog had me install my original non-adjustable base which remains on the truck. I changed filters (tried 10 and 2 micron), changed water seperator, changed fittings, changed harnesses, changed all fuel lines, bought a new gas cap, they sent out a new AD200 motor, I installed a sump. You name it. Re-did all the relays in the fuse panel except the funky short square ones. Made sure voltage is proper @ 13.5-14.3. Typically its 13.7-14.0. I tend to watch it like a hawk after dealing with a limp mode and things. Now I have the AD200 motor on there, AD100 original non-adjustable base, I cut the spring down so Im 16-17 PSI at idle, 16 psi in drive not moving, 15 PSI with 5-10% throttle, and it'll still drop down to 11psi at WOT with the 50HP injectors. Drives me mad. Only reason I went with the AD165 originally /w the new motor was because my AD100 that came on the truck was rock solid at 15-17psi all the time. Ive given up on calling them.

 

jlbayes - It always seemed strange to me that 2nd gen injectors were so cheap. I still to this moment dont know who builds better stuff than DDP. Not saying they are the best by any means, but it seems that they carry the highest price tag. BD probably waivers close to them if I had to recall.

 

Im not looking to drag race, but if I a lockup switch improves daily driving then thats what I want. I've been meaning to put one in, but I know I have to use it right, and I dont know how to use it really. I can guess and get along, but generally to learn I must first break something. That's not a path Im trying to run down right now.

 

I'd almost take better driveability and less smoke than 600hp right now. We will see. I'll try to get a iquad and I've got the Edge's low end fueling turned down to 1 for now. I will continue to tune the WG. I'm seeing with the Edge boost elbow I only get 8 PSI @ WOT with the WG regulator full open (it's got a guage on it). With a normal 45* brass plumbing elbow I was seeing 45psi at WOT.

 

Also the truck when I first drove it with all these mods except it had the 1.10 cover on the S475 and a stock intake elbow on there, it made 53PSI. Ever since that day I've been looking to get the boost back, I think it was my billet intake mani from D&J that was slowly leaking. Since then I have got the 3.5" banks intake /w 3.5" tube on there. I also threw my drive pressure sensor in the intake elbow originally to compare the MAP sensor to Edge's sensor, and they were within 1-2psi of each other. I think the $80 Napa MAP sensor reacted quicker and was slightly more accurate. The Edge sensor readings seemed to lag behind it by roughly a second.

Ditch the Edge the sublevel control of smoke is not a good design. At least with the Quadzilla you can set the low boost fuel numbers below stock rate and tune out a majority of the smoke issues. 

Greeds will cycle pretty much every time you start the truck, and can cycle on and off first few minutes and wts will not come on while the ruck is running already even though grids are cycling, but wts does need to come on righ a way when you turn key on. 

I took a video, but I don't have a way to upload it right now. It shows the WTS light coming on first before any other light by half a sec or a quarter second.

 

Thx for the insight on the grids Diesel.

I didn't realise quad had such better smoke control.

 

I bought DDP Injectors bc they were the priceiest I knew of. I wanted the best.

 

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

5 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

 

 

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

Batteries act as a filter test from the alternator itself.

Infinite performance, Haley Speed Inc., F1 Fuel Injection are the ones I would consider for injectors. 12v & vp injectors are "cheap" due to being a mechanical poppet injector. Do not let advertising or price fool you. I have yet to see a set of ddp injectors come close to anything more affordably priced in performance. Industrial Injection is another that charges an extreme premium for a less than mediocre product.

 

I use a lockup switch daily on my stock 12v. Stupid sloppy stock 47re converter.

 

The edge is reading the sensor value across the bus. Likely why the resolution was worse.

 

You said you have a 1.32 on there now correct? That is where some of your boost went.

42 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA

 

I lost 6-7lbs of boost with no changes to the truck after it's first couple months of being run with the new motor.

 

I recalled after going to the 1.32 when I used to have 6-7psi I had 3-4psi with the same load and rpm on the roads I drive to and from work daily (same driving style etc).

That larger housing moves quite a bit more air than the 1.10 jobber. When is the last time you pressure checked the piping? Sorry if I missed that somewhere. Lotta info to try and absorb in all the posts.

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA

 

I've watched that video before, probably from you on here.

Ya JL- I know I throw info out there incohesively too. Last time I did a pressure test was about a month ago after re-sealing the billet intake manifold with The Right Stuff. I took pics, some areas have only a quarter inch or less (maybe even an 1/8", I should refind pics) 

On the back of the alt, one post gives me 7.53-7.59v AC, the other gives .061v-.065v.

 

Off the charging cable at the alt I see .015vac.

 

All measurements on a hot engine with the turbo center section used as a ground.

 

When I bought the truck I read about the 53 block but could not find the casting at the time. I got it for $7100, it had the edge tuner, air bags, etc. I thought it was amazing. Well I started leaking coolant roughly a year after owning it, and right away I was able to identify the 53 in the casting. So $13000 plus 1k S&H later for a D&J motor, this is what I get.

I have pics of the rest of the exhaust ports. This one was the worst in terms of unburnt oil on the roof.

I noticed the very center of the ports were untouched despite their 5 axis CNC machine. My only explanation for this was the port height & angles were already optimized stock and they didnt want to disrupt the swirl in the cylinder. This is their stage 2 porting on the intake side. Stage 1 is exhaust side only.

Edited August 15, 20177 yr by rogerash0

I would be less than impressed with the valve seals.....

 

The only other cnc'd head I have seen (in person) the ports were opened up even the roof. Some do not like touching the roof due to the connector tube passage. 

My exhaust side looked similar not as bad on oil resedue, wow on your valve seals nothing left, how many miles on rebuild. I'd be all over your rebuilder I don't care if you took it to the track every weekend it should last for quite a while. Unless you use send for oil. Just kidding of course. Looks like poor job to me.

Ya I wrote Jared about a month ago and typically he reply to emails same day. I should get on them but I hate being a pain in the *** and I know I'm gonna get the run around. It's embarrassing blowing white smoke all over while the engine is cold, and even some when it's warm if I don't rev it out.

Edited August 15, 20177 yr by rogerash0

You may have a cracked head and that could be reason why you blowing smoke. Just a speculation. 

As in it's coolant? They said they do all the checks on the head to ensure it's not cracked. I have noticed my radiator hose seem to stay pressurized for a long *** time. Like overnight. I have mishimoto radiator and cap.