Hey guys,

 

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157

 

So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though.

 

Other interesting links:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search

http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html

I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming

Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5

 

Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself.

 

I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. 

 

Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

 

 

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

there is a pos and neg lead going to the battery,

 

Bad idea... Nothing should ever be hooked to the battery terminals. 

 

Both batteries are clean of any leads other than stock.

 

All aftermarket accessories. Are hooked up here. Never hook to the black lead if the alternator fuse blows it will produce high voltage that will let the "magic smoke" out of any device hooked to that black lead. 

 

The prevents the battery acid from attacking all the terminals. Also, this does produce a big ol' hairy looking terminal that gets tore up from jump cables. 

Edited August 18, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

I noticed the other day after a nominal amt of driving in town that the AD200 motor was so hot I could barely keep a finger on it. Makes me think it'll fail. I have the original 100 motor, the new 4G 165 motor, and the 200 motor they sent me as a warranty to try to fix the pressure drop. What would be the smartest way to regulate return, a 1/2" needle valve?

Thanks moparman, I'll get some stuff moved over to that terminal then. I do have way too much crap on the batt terminals, I need an expandable block (or whatever they're called again) badly. Just another thing on the to-do list.

1 minute ago, rogerash0 said:

What would be the smartest way to regulate return, a 1/2" needle valve?

 

No. Can't use a fixed orifice. The old style spring and ball were the best design. The new adjustable style doesn't work because the regulator pin hangs up and sticks. 

That's why I switched to the non-adjustable original AD100 base. I forgot the spring and ball were in the return port.. that's how I adjust my operating inlet pressure. I have two new springs from AD that I havnt tried yet. I cut down one of the original springs down that was giving me 25psi. I meant to try the other ones, because Im sure the ball isn't liking the pokey, non-rounded end of the spring too much. I was pretty unimpressed when AD told me to use my original non-adjustable base; I was hoping to sell the unit to return some coin. I ended up keeping it on there b/c the ports on the fittings are bigger, and because the adjustable ADII base sounded like it was sucking air in at times thru the regulator/adjustor assembly. I didn't trust it. Sometimes I would adjust it and I would hear a big woosh like it was sucking a ton of air in, and it would jump from say 23-24psi straight to 40psi when the vacuum sound would come on. It didn't seem like it worked well. They also told me the original non-adjustable base design was better suited for VP trucks. Overall super unimpressed with the Airdog..

Edited August 18, 20177 yr by rogerash0

Part of reasons I'm using fass now is air dog didn't give me time of the day to answer simple questions I had when my ad went to crap, just kept saying we can send you another pump out and overnight it if you want. Complete joke, fass has my money now. But I don't have too many miles on fass so I can't say one way or another. It is definitely much bigger, and I did have a pressure problem with it when first installed so I called fass and they sent me a new spring and ball, modified spring a little and put new ball in been good for few years now, still on original filters too maybe close to 20k on them now, not going to change them ether till pressure flactuation or they rot out.

@Mopar1973Man is it strictly because of acid corroding terminals or there is other reasons, I think some hook things to alternator too. I got all my crap on batteries but keep them clean so no worries there, I think this been talked about before. 

Edited August 18, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

There is a reason neither system is on either of my trucks any longer LOL

FASS isn't without its issues too. I've seen FASS blowing fuses in under 10k miles. Pump motor failures as well. The other problem because of pure size is trying to mount out of the damage path of the front tires. I've seen a few filters now damaged by flying debris from the front tires. So FASS isn't perfect either. 

Piece of floormat to protect filters might work, as for motor burning out I did asked fass if they used same tiny seal to keep fuel from going it motor like AD and he wouldn't tell me. 

What's good then JL? 

Also I spoke with a nice lady at F1 Diesel and they recommend the Mach 4's for me. Those are 150hp. They are on the shelf Rdy to ship anytime. $1000+$200 core. 7 hole sac , she spoke with Don and he said there are no marine nozzles for VP trucks. Shipping is $20. It's $500 for me to buy Mach 2's and have them enlarged to Mach 4's she said. She was leaning towards 2's for a minute because of the towing I do. I said I can probably go slow over the passes in third gear locked around 50mph and not have egt's too high, even with the Mach 4s. I have her my build specs and so fourth. I have someone buying my camper very soon so it's possible I could fund these and sell the DDPs on FB. Im gonna pop the DDPs back in and see how they run. I'd like to do a back to back test with them against the Mach 4's.

47 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Piece of floormat to protect filters might work

 

Not hardly... I've seen some owner put aluminum boxes around the filters and have objects strike the box hard enough to dent the box and the filter still. 85 MPH and a tire picks up an object and throws it's going to be a missile. 

 

If you are using your truck offroad and hook the box or guard it will still take the filters right off. As some of the local ranchers have done as well.

I would follow F1's recommendation on the injectors. Theirs (F1) typically perform well above the traditional thoughts on hole size.

 

I am about mechanical pumps now. Belt driven or geartrain driven.

I read Quadzilla's site and I saw nothing about sensor input / support. Will I be able to utilize my pressure sensors in the exhaust manifold and inbetween turbos?

Are they 5v reference sensors? Round 3 pin deal?

Yep that's them.

I have some big questions I hope you guys can help me on. First I'll show where & how I found this "cap" in the PCM harness. It seems like its a homebrew 1/2" CPVC cap that someone has neatly filled in. It's got black going to black, solid green from the cap going to green with white stripe in the PCM harness, and a white lead out of the cap going to a green with white stripe in the PCM harness. See images: Cap1, Cap2, Cap3, Cap4, Cap5, Cap Green and Black, Cap White Wire.

 

I also have a Tranny Mystery image, a Tranny Tap image, and finally a PCM Tap image. 

 

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks

The brown wire in the middle pcm connector? It is for the 3-4 shift, basically a lockup switch for overdrive.

 

The tcase plug is the vacuum switch for the front axle actuator.

 

Brown wire in the trans connector is for 3-4 solenoid as well.

Need to ditch all that noise filter junk return the electrical back to stock. Wiring map is here on the site. Should be fairly straight forward. Be aware there might be voltage regulator for the transmission and a resistor mod present. I know this makes it tough but half of all electrical issues are from poor modifications.

Do you know where the voltage regulator for the tranny and resister mod would exist? I tried an external voltage regulator when I was having alternator issues but pulled it back out.

 

With those brown wires tapped, is a switch that hooks them up all I need to have the lockup command capability? Im interested in it because, for example, today my engine was up to normal operating temp, and I went to pass without realizing I was at 48-49mph, and as soon as I stepped into it I hit 50 mph, TC locked, and the truck bogged like hell. Putting out a big cloud of black, with the 50hp injectors Edge on lvl 7 lowend on 3 timing on 2. That type of thing drives me nuts. It also bogs in third with OD off when it engages at 30mph. Surely it shouldnt bog as it does..

 

All this wiring non-sense started as I cleaned the cluster **** of wires above the trans, trying to make sure my TV cable is set right. It was bent around pretty bad in a ziptied wire bundle, but the truck still drives the same with the mess undone. Im convinced the TV isnt set right. I took pics of the cable & TV lever down by the trans with the pedal floored and at resting positon. I dont know if that would be helpful to show you guys?

 

Basically I still had half an inch of throw in the TV lever/cable with the pedal to the floor. I do have a floor mat in the truck, but thats it. So my next step was to pull the APPS cover and try to  adjust the cable. Am I on the right track there? I feel so clueless sometimes :\

 

Ultimately my truck stack shifts 3rd and fourth. When It goes into third it seldom rests in third for more than a brief moment without going into fourth.

From my notes, roughly a year ago:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

21mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

I can coast down to 20mph and the truck remains in 4th gear.

 

After fixing a ton of stuff on the truck, sensors blah blah, today it did:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

24mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

 

I think if I could get it to rev out in the gears more, my smoke problem would be considerably less. All the time Im crusing in 4th gear at low RPMs and I gotta put my foot 1/2 way into it to make it downshift, and it goes right to 2nd gear.

 

Thanks guys

Edited August 22, 20177 yr by rogerash0

Man, I have not seen one stack a shift that early. For sure some of your smoke issues. Another problem.....lock  up and od are both pcm controlled.... @Dynamic would be a better source on the stack shift issues than I. I have always locked out od in my green truck due to turbocharger setups (large). It would pull through 3rd locked though.

Edited August 22, 20177 yr by jlbayes

TV cable adjustment is part of the issue. When adjusted properly the throttle and transmission shouldstart together, move together and end together. Your sounds like too much slack in the cable so throttle is moving quite a distance before the transmission valve does.