Like the title says. I noticed this coolant right below the exhaust manifold. 

 

Any ideas if it could be a Head gaskets issue?

 

Just changed the oil and it's not milky. The coolant still looks good. 

Would you buy the whole upper gasket kit from geno's garage? It has some stuff I don't need in the kit. 

 

Did anyone one have to do the milling that ARP says has to be done on the #24 stud?

Edited September 15, 20177 yr by 903Dodge

I got the kit from genos, wanted new valve cover gasket just because and planned on putting new valve seals on, but after taking head to machine shop to surface and check for cracks discovered my valve guides were oveled out, so I had them put new guides in and do a valve job. 

Not sure on arp, I have the other kind that's no longer made I believe, forgot the name. 

13 hours ago, 903Dodge said:

Did anyone one have to do the milling that ARP says has to be done on the #24 stud?

 

Reread the directions........

Was that maybe just for common rail trucks?

That's a leaky head gasket. I've replaced 5 or 6 in the last 2 years due to that seepage at the passenger side front of the head. Certain 24v engines are prone to leaking there.

1 minute ago, DieselJunkie said:

That's a leaky head gasket. I've replaced 5 or 6 in the last 2 years due to that seepage at the passenger side front of the head. Certain 24v engines are prone to leaking there.

 

Hua?

 

Some of us have well over 15-16 years of age 300k to 400k miles and never changed a head gasket.

 

So either the head isn't flat. The block deck isn't flat. Poor quality head gasket. Head bolts are not torqued right.

 

The first time I ran across that leak there I did a little research and found that 24 valves apparently have a tendency to leak there so I started inspecting that area every time a 24 valve came in and found a few more leaking there.

Mopar1973Man, While I've got your attention I was looking at an older post of yours from 2013 or 14 when you took a VP apart. I can go try to find the thread and post there but I'm looking for a source for the diaphragm on the distributor housing without buying the whole thing. 

18 minutes ago, DieselJunkie said:

I'm looking for a source for the diaphragm on the distributor housing without buying the whole thing. 

 

The diaphragm doesn't exist... It's a steel plate...

 

Potato po tah toe. Mine has a crack in the plastic where it seals on the inner o ring causing the accumulator to lose pressure

I actually have two pumps with this same issue. I haven't disassembled the second one yet but it is showing the same symptoms as the one I did take apart.

1 hour ago, DieselJunkie said:

Potato po tah toe.

I'm in Idaho so...

 

1 hour ago, DieselJunkie said:

Mine has a crack in the plastic where it seals on the inner o ring causing the accumulator to lose pressure

I actually have two pumps with this same issue. I haven't disassembled the second one yet but it is showing the same symptoms as the one I did take apart.

 

Hmmm... Might have to give Blue Chip a call and see if he will sell you the cover plate. Yes, I will not call it a diaphragm. 

@DieselJunkie what symptoms are you having with bad diaphragm, just curious 

Oh and what's a head gasket job cost on average for labor. Need to tell wife how much I saved.

Edited September 19, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

From what I can tell the bad diaphragm causes hard starts and erratic idle. We run a lot of wmo on the old diesel junkers. Works fine in older mechanical fuel delivery engines and heui but the vp44 doesn't like it and after a while exhibits the hard start and erratic idle symptoms. I think it may be due to the wmo being too thick. We usually try to dilute it but sometimes not enough I guess. Still learning how to make the wmo work. The money we've saved on fuel is a lot though. Totally justifies the problems that comes with it. I put a 375 gallon tank in the back of my 99 24v, filled it up from a waste oil source without even filtering it and made a 4k mile round trip to the east coast and back from here to NM about 3 years ago. Didn't take enough fuel filters with me so paying $30 at the auto parts stores along the way was a little more painful than the $9 price we pay here on our fleet account but otherwise the trip was very low budget. I have since added a couple more large spin on filters down on the frame before the factory filter and pump and another electric pump to help push through them. The spin ons are even cheaper at about $3 each.

 

As far as the head gasket jobs go, it varies depending on how far the customer wants to go. Most of the guys around here want to chance just replacing the gasket without sending the head out to a machine shop unless they've overheated it or other problems become evident during the head gasket job. Mostly farm trucks or guys on low budgets. About $300 in parts and about $900 labor. The price can change a lot if the customer wants to do more but we aren't aware of any failures on the ones we've done so far.

I'd like to see you injectors after all that. The ash build up should be nasty...

 

 

Edited September 19, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

Probably. Like I said...Junkers.

Total cost for mine is going to be $2500 tax included. 

Removing head

Machince shop (Rebuilding the head and machine work if needed) $550 max (Could be less if no milling is needed.) 

Tappet cover gasket

Cummin Gaskets

Coolant 

ARP head studs (Could of saved $100 if I bought online.) $500

 

The biggest thing is the down time for the machine work. Up to 5 days here locally. 

 

I would do do it myself, but if you took into account the days I would have to take off, it would cost me more. 

Edited September 20, 20177 yr by 903Dodge