Ok, I'm changing axle seals on my 00 2500 and run into a problem I've not found anywhere else.  The next step is to remove the carrier.  The passenger outer axle is out as is the driver axle.  The diff cover is off and the cad cover is off.  The remaining passenger intermediate shaft is slid all the way to the drivener side as it should be.  It is making contact with a pin in the center of the carrier so it literally can't move further.

 

All that is left is to remove the shift nut from the cad housing and remove the passenger inner shaft.  Youtube shows this as an easy process.  On my truck, there isn't enough room for the shift nut to come out.  It looks like there is a washer, bushing or something on the driver side of the housing but it is all the way to the side and can't be pressed in for more room.  Twist, turn, bang, cuss there is not enough room.  The nut gets wedged between the housing and end of the axle and won't come out. 

 

Anyone got any ideas? I've fooled with this thing off and on for way too long.  It apparently isn't common.

 

Go here to 6.26 to see what I'm talking about. 

 

Edited October 27, 20177 yr by Junkman

Thought I had it done. Not quite.

I found this which refers to a Dana 60 on an 00 Dodge http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showt...eplacing-seals


and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pLezm9BxiU

and bought this. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...set-93111.html

I can get a good line with the punch but the roll pin still ain't moving even with the BFH hitting the punch.

Edit: the HF punch set comes apart if you get it stuck in a hole and try to pull it out.  The handle comes off the shaft.   When punching, it seems OK. At least it hasn't broken into pieces.

I still need to do the tappet cover gasket and fix the PS reservoir leak but don't want the truck further away from being mobile. I'm about ready to put the thing back together and throw a few Ben Franklin tools at it and let someone with a lift and cement floor deal with it.

Ideas?

Junk,

Sorry I am behind on this hope you have it already!  I was going to suggest dropping the spiders, but when I saw that it was a roll pin, I was unsure if it could be done.  (If there was enough room for it to come out.)

 

It appears that there is enough room. 

Good punches and hammers.  You can also try to move it either direction first.  The whole trick is to get it to move without distorting the end of the roll pin. 

Get good punches!!!  keep them burr free too! 

There could be a burr that is keeping you from getting it moving....  

You may have to get the truck higher, so you can sit to swing at it, or can you use a long bar and someone outside the truck swing while you guide it?

 

I am in a similar situation with my brothers 01.  having trouble getting the pinion bearing races out of the housing....  Shouldn't be a fight, but it is for some reason....

 

GL

Hag

Unfortunately, I found out about using special roll pin punches too late and may have buggered the end up.  I stuck a boroscope in and don't see how messing up the end would impact it.  A BFH didn't move it even though all of the vids had it out in a few taps.  One of the links above said the pin is tapered in which case, it should come out. 

 

I may buy a better punch and try again.  Shop wants $400 + tax to change the seals.  I have other stuff to do and can't screw around forever.

 

Supposedly it comes out from the ring gear (passenger) side towards the driver side.

Edited November 4, 20177 yr by Junkman

Two weeks later & I got time to work on it after buying another set of punches.  You need "roll pin punches" because they have a small knob on the end that centers the punch.  I bought these for slightly more than $20. 

 

https://www.wildetool.com/product/6-piece-roll-pin-spring-punch-set/

 

The 7/32 size is what I used.  1/4" is too big.  Be sure to have the passenger inner axle in place because it helps hold the planet gears in the correct location.  A socket and long extension on the punch will let you get enough swing with a BFH to remove the pin.

 

I'll work more tomorrow but a cheap set of the correct type of punch made the job pretty reasonable.  Dana should be shot for the design that requires the roll pin removal.

Final resolution was to remove the center pin per above, then the gears come out with a pry bar.  I was on my back in the gravel so holding the gears was an issue.  Buying long bolts and installing them in the bottom hole where the bearing cap bolt goes helped immensely.  The bolts should be 6" long or so.  You will use them to roll the gears back in.  Having 2 people would also have made the job much easier.  Pound the gears back in with a dead blow hammer then use the bearing caps to pull them all the way in.  Then check your work.

 

I'm on to other things so haven't driven the truck and won't for a while.  I installed EMS free spin hubs which also took some figuring out.  There are better instructions on the Yukon site than came with the hubs.  EMS apparently is using Yukon si it is the same product only less expensive.

I'm  a mechanic but had my friend that has a 4x4 repair shop replace my leaking front axle inner seals , just because he had the proper tool to remove and install and seat the seals and he does it all the time.

Plus I had too many other projects going

 

Only took him a couple hours complete, and filled the front with torco gear oil

 

 

.

 

 

Edited December 22, 20177 yr by GSP7

I didn't find a reasonable price from any shop that I trust and had to figure everything out.  That and working on the ground around weather and my other tasks made it take a while.  Sure, I could do it faster next time but there likely won't be another time.  The 00 required extra steps of removing the center pin which I didn't find to be common or completely explained.

 

I'm on to the next item after 1/1.

IIRC isnt there a special long seal removing and installation tool that you stick down the axle tube to R&R the seals ? ? ? ? ? ? ?    Cant remember exactly

Edited December 23, 20177 yr by GSP7

No special tool needed.  Use a long 3/8 extension or pry bar to knock the seals out.  A5/8 threaded rod and something like a large socket to pull the new seal in. A helper would make it easier.

I've watched this process done but never had to do it. @MoparMom was being nice for me years ago and paid for my front axle unit bearing replacement done by my tire shop guys. Needless to say, the bearings got done but when I check the truck over the front axle seal where leaking after the bearing change. The tire shop warranty there work and sent me to another shop to have the front axles seal replaced. The shop owner was nice enough to let me watch him work. Of course, this shop had all the nice seal tools to knock them out and install them without damage.

Edited December 27, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

I must have screwed something up.  Ball joints are in and axle is back together.  I drove 2 mi round trip to get an alignment and a yellowish fluid is all over the passenger side wheel.  Alignment shop said "brake fluid" but I suspect it is diff fluid from the passenger side axle seal leaking.

 

I thought the seal was put in correctly.  (I'll look at the brakes just in case but I don't think they're the problem.  What axle seal install error is likely causing the leak?  Will pulling the outer driver side axle cause a leak there?