Hey guys, I have been poking around here for some time but mainly active on CF. I have been wanting to get more active here, so here we go! I have been getting TC lockup issues for 3-4 days now and its getting worse. I pulled out my meter and sure enough, she's blowing .045-.052, she's toast. So I am willing to spend a little more on an alternator and hoping to not play roulette with china crap form local box stores.

 

Where should I order from? Im hoping to keep my core since its a OEM original unit. I could possibly rebuild it for later. Im leaning on the Denso Hairpin 180 from Nations.However, I was reading somewhere about a better one from the dodge dealer that was around $220? 

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm

 

Im open to other suggestions, but I was a drop in, I don't want to be messing with pulleys and cable ends.  

 

 

and btw... with they alternator, I have not hit 100% of the common soar spots on our 2nd gens whats my prize?

 

 

that being said, I just tested again and turning my radio and fan blower on didn't seem to change the ac noise much, if at all. if anything I think its just making it bounce around a little faster, but the peaks was the same (+-.001) 

 

33 minutes ago, s10010001 said:

I think the idea is, we can't have a static set of numbers to base "good" or "bad" on if everyone has a different set of accessories. The various accessories will alter the noise levels coming off the AC. But if we all run accessories off then our trucks are pretty much the same (electrically) and we can say, .03 is good and .09 is bad. 

 

Exactly. That why I'm using the everything off method. Like my headlights only draw 5 amps (70 watt load) compared to a stock truck with normal halogen lights draws 7.8 amp (110 watts). 

 

I know most load testers report the AC noise (ripple) under full load and typically it will be 1.0 to about 1.2 AC Volts. Since no one can really test at absolute full load and get a measurement in makes it impossible to get a fail marker that we all can agree on. So I use the everything off method and see what the static idle AC noise is. Most part stores hand-held testers use this method too and will fail or pass at idle no load too.

is it possible for the alternator to make more noise Intermittently, or is purely on load? 

 

my Lockup issues seems to be Intermittent right now, but its getting worse daily it seems. So if its not Intermittent, then its load based, maybe my grids were coming on and off Intermittent causing the issue. Actually, I have driven around town twice since this morning and had no lockup issues. I did unhook my grids this morning before heading out. hmmm... 

9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Exactly. That why I'm using the everything off method. Like my headlights only draw 5 amps (70 watt load) compared to a stock truck with normal halogen lights draws 7.8 amp (110 watts). 

 

I know most load testers report the AC noise (ripple) under full load and typically it will be 1.0 to about 1.2 AC Volts. Since no one can really test at absolute full load and get a measurement in makes it impossible to get a fail marker that we all can agree on. So I use the everything off method and see what the static idle AC noise is. Most part stores hand-held testers use this method too and will fail or pass at idle no load too.

Thanks for clearing it up. Don't know how I missed it all these years. Just seems odd to me that we check at idle with no load when we go down the road at 2000rpm with at least some type of load typically. I guess I'm in the 'safe' zone after all then.

The whole point is fine a condition we all can agree on and then we can say it either passing or failing. Originally, I was saying 0.1 was a fail but some vehicles were having issues as low as 0.05 ac volts. So this became a grey area between 0.05 and 0.1 idle AC volts. The reason why I made the mark so high because manuals tend to handle noise better because of the lack of computer control (transmission). It was only after it made the 0.1 that my cruise control would weird out and surge randomly. Now the automatic truck would have the TQ converter lock issues as low as 0.05 volts AC. Hence why this grey zone exists and difficult to draw an exact line in the sand this is a failure point.

makes sense, and every truck could be a little different. Mine TC is acting up yet i'm pulling under .04 idling and .05 at 2krpm. I assume its getting worse from time to time but I haven't seen it unless I have some other issue going on with the trans, but I doubt it. Its only got like 8k on it and all the electronics are new quality replacements. 

 

I did play around with a lockup switch for like 30 mins.. I feel like its been weird since then but that likely in my head, maybe I messes something up. I don't like the switch BTW, not one bit. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The whole point is fine a condition we all can agree on and then we can say it either passing or failing. Originally, I was saying 0.1 was a fail but some vehicles were having issues as low as 0.05 ac volts. So this became a grey area between 0.05 and 0.1 idle AC volts. The reason why I made the mark so high because manuals tend to handle noise better because of the lack of computer control (transmission). It was only after it made the 0.1 that my cruise control would weird out and surge randomly. Now the automatic truck would have the TQ converter lock issues as low as 0.05 volts AC. Hence why this grey zone exists and difficult to draw an exact line in the sand this is a failure point.

I see your point. For me and my truck though I will continue to check with the stock loads on. I'd rather test under more normal running conditions and get a warning sooner than later.

I'm trying to get the end game of not having to test anymore and go back to the days of like it was brand new and the alternator last for YEARS with no worries. If I can figure that one out then this conversation will be mute.

Shooting from the hip here.... I like to think its from a general deterioration in grounding and electrical system connections. The biggest draws, like the grids, are the squeakiest wheel so that gets the most attention. Look at the deterioration of the alternator grounding. A poor connection tends to accelerate toward an electrolytic deterioration where you see the white powder or corrosion. Often only visible when the connection is opened.

 

Anyway I'm not Destry so hip shooting is only just that.....'.may hit may not'.

I look forward to that day. Until then, my grids are staying on a switch and only used to start the truck.

5 minutes ago, dave110 said:

I look forward to that day. Until then, my grids are staying on a switch and only used to start the truck.

 

@dave110 Do me a favor. Since you are doing the grid heater on a switch. Let me know later on how your alternator is doing say in 6 months or year later. I'm going to bet you'll find the same answer I do is the grid heater start to draw more current as they age. 

I can do that. Only thing is I only switch them on to pre-heat to start the truck. Once running, they go off as soon as they unload. In other words I don't manually switch them off under load, I wait for the computer to turn them off and then I turn and leave them off. Essentially I'm not using them anymore and with spring coming they will stay off. On thing I want to try is to measure amp draw on the 2 or 3 sets of grids I have and look for differences. The set I have in the truck now pulled 200A with my inductive ammeter. I realize it's not a NASA accurate way to measure but for comparison sake it will be OK. I'll let you know what I find.

1 minute ago, dave110 said:

On thing I want to try is to measure amp draw on the 2 or 3 sets of grids I have and look for differences. The set I have in the truck now pulled 200A with my inductive ammeter. I realize it's not a NASA accurate way to measure but for comparison sake it will be OK. I'll let you know what I find.

 

Please do... Please Please! 

I got started last weekend. Went for a drive, heard a terrible noise, got out to find my fuel tank laying on the road. One of the straps rotted through from the underside and I didn't see it. Luckily it didn't fall completely off, the 1/2" supply line was still intact, and I carry a good selection of ratchet straps with me. I was able to strap it and make it home. Needless to say the rest of the day was spent under the truck instead of on top where I wanted it to be   . Maybe this weekend I'll continue the testing.

Ohh crap, don’t be mad at me guys, I totally forgot about this...

 

about a a week ago I got a code when I started my truck up, I forgot the code but it was related to my grid heater. I cleared to code and it never came back... I have noticed twice last week that my grid heaters were making a slight squeeze my noise. I only hear it if I put my key in on and get out of the truck. Like to get the coffee I forgot inside. 

 

I know its only been 1 day and now 3 drives but it’s funny that as soon as I unhooked  the grids the Tc isn’t giving me crap. More driving to confirm. 

 

 

Sorry for being dense here, but what do you mean by a slight squeeze my noise? Reason I ask is because Mike had a pic. of some grids drawing 400A and the fusible links were not letting go. Wonder if that's what you have? Sorry if I'm missing something in your post.

Yea, I just didn't put 2 in 2 together and forgot to mention it... so y'all did not get the all the details. 

 

Yea, the Grid heater was making a squealing noise when the WTS light is on that I never noticed before. But its one of those noises that you think to yourself, "is that normal?" it wasn't so bad that it was obviously bad... you know what I mean? Weird because since I unhooked the grids I feel like, everything is running better now... 

 

 

But yea, time will tell there, ill do some good driving this weekend. With all the trips planned started in March I need stout! I jumped the gun and have a Nations 180 on the way... hehehe might not even need it.

 

EDIT: I will measure the average draw off my grids this weekend. 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 22, 20187 yr by s10010001

Got ya. I thought maybe that's what you meant but was not sure. You know how a pot squeals on the stove when it gets too hot, that's what I thought might be happening after seeing Mikes picture of the grids drawing 400A. Evidently the fuse links don't always work. Maybe it's possible your grids intermittently stick on causing the intermittent problem your having? Just thinking out loud here. I'm sure the poor alt. would go nuts trying to keep after a 400A draw!

So whats the deal with the grids? what triggers them to come on? I know they come one wit the WTS light, and on my truck the duration of the WTS seems to correlate directly to the temp outside. But even in 118* heat at the river the WTS light comes on for a sec or two. 

IAT, ECT, and the battery temp sensor all work together to control when they come on and off. Speed sensor plays a part too turning them off at 18mph I think. Mike taught me that it's possible to have 100+ IAT and 190 ECT and still get grids on if the battery is still not warm. Weird setup if you ask me. Most likely driven by trying to meet idle emmissions at the time.