Let me approach this subject a different way.

 

I am looking for a different turbo for one of my 01 3500's and would like to know if there is any math or formula to help you make this choice? I know you have to try to match the air to fuel ratio, but thats it. I have BD's 110 injectors in this particular 3500 with a stock turbo and she always has a 16' company trailer attached to it with aluminum extrusion and ladders on it. I am just wanting a little more lower and a little lower EGT's without changing injectors of course. My other mods on the truck are basically the same for this one that is in my Sig below. If you need ,more info let me know and I will gladly post it.

Thanks for any input!

Steve

On 5/14/2018 at 11:01 AM, dieselautopower said:

This is a newer offering from Borg Warner.

 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-14-t3-gated-hx40

 

One improved feature on the SXE S357 13749880014 is the compressor wheel: 57.1mm inducer and a smaller 76.2mm exducer so it has less rotating mass and can spool faster. The SXE S357 is a big upgrade from the 174430 with 57.1mm inducer and 83.4mm exducer compressor wheel that flows less at 61lbs/minute.

 

There is also a 57.1mm/ with 61mm turbine  that we sell that will support about 400HP (turbine limited) that will work with factory 5 bolt flange so those with an exhaust brake can finally upgrade to a better turbo than a hx35/40 hybrid.

Sure wish you would of chimed in earlier with info, might of got one from you. I did not know you were on this site, partially my fault for not seeing the vendors list.

Wife sent me a pic of what was delivered, awesome!!

Get it on yet ?

NO, Had to work on another one this weekend.LOL  Always something.

Going to tackle this Saturday, but have a couple questions maybe one of you can enlighten me on. I am supplying pics for my question and no, the turbo installation procedures don't say what to do with them. Lol 

 

 

What are these two bolts for? I have four bolts holding the stock one, maybe replacing two?

 

 What is this brass fitting for?

 

This must be the oiler line?

 

 

What is this port for?

 

I have a "J" hook on my stock turbo. Do I need to install it here some how?

 

This hose I have in my hand go to these two fittings on the turbo correct??

 

Out of curiosity, What is the numbers for you think?

 

 

In order:

- Two of the mounting studs for the stock turbo are in the turbo flange, the other two are in the manifold.  Those bolts replace the two lost.

- I believe that is an adaptor for first gen oil supply lines.  Not needed on a 2nd gen.

- That is oil return to the block.

- That is an optional shaft speed sensor port.  Is not drilled all the way and will not be a boost leak.

 - J hook not needed on this model of turbo.  Most control the wategate via an adjustable boost elbow or just leave it alone.

- Yes, the supplied hoose goes between those two fittings.

- IIRC, those numbers are references to the balancing process.  Will check because now I'm curious.

19 minutes ago, trreed said:

In order:

- Two of the mounting studs for the stock turbo are in the turbo flange, the other two are in the manifold.  Those bolts replace the two lost.

- I believe that is an adaptor for first gen oil supply lines.  Not needed on a 2nd gen.

- That is oil return to the block.

- That is an optional shaft speed sensor port.  Is not drilled all the way and will not be a boost leak.

 - J hook not needed on this model of turbo.  Most control the wategate via an adjustable boost elbow or just leave it alone.

- Yes, the supplied hoose goes between those two fittings.

- IIRC, those numbers are references to the balancing process.  Will check because now I'm curious.

Wow, that was quick. Thank you!!

-The rod with the bolt on it, what is the loose nut for and should it be tightened somewhere on it?

-So, the boost sensor port does not need a cover you think?

- I too am curious about the numbers? If you find something do tell please.

 

Again thank you for your help!!

 

 

Loose nut is a lock nut.  It should be tightened down against the sleeve.  Purpose of the threads is to adjust the preload on the wastegate.

The speed port does not need to be covered.  

25 minutes ago, trreed said:

Loose nut is a lock nut.  It should be tightened down against the sleeve.  Purpose of the threads is to adjust the preload on the wastegate.

The speed port does not need to be covered.  

Should I just leave it alone for now and just tighten it up you think?

Yes.  See how it runs.  I'm not sure what AGP sets their gates to open at.

Do u want there phone number @mopar440cu

Agps

1 hour ago, Silverdodge said:

Do u want there phone number @mopar440cu

Agps

No,thank you I have it and tried them already.  I also wrote them, but figured it would be quicker simply asking someone here, which it was, and I am great full!

Edited May 24, 20186 yr by mopar440cu

OK, I ran into a snag installing the new turbo. The oil inlet fitting is not the same as the original one. The brass fitting they sent has a male going into the turbo with a female end. The original one that I need is a male to male coupler. Did any of you run into this? What did you do? I found one on line, but thats not going to get the truck running by Sunday for work. Bummer!!!

 

Man this stinks they told me everything was included ready to bolt on. Now I have to put everything back on if I can not find one locally, which I doubt being Memorial Day weekend.

Believe it or not... I found a shut off valve at ace hardware. Might try if you have on.

1 minute ago, 015point9 said:

Believe it or not... I found a shut off valve at ace hardware. Might try if you have on.

Thank you!  I will send the wife out and see if they have something.

 

 I really appreciate the help!!!

Some Borg turbos are 1/4” NPT fittings for the inlet, where the stock Holset fitting is M12x1.5 ORB 

52 minutes ago, trreed said:

Some Borg turbos are 1/4” NPT fittings for the inlet, where the stock Holset fitting is M12x1.5 ORB 

Thanks! What is ORB please?

 

 

 

Edited May 26, 20186 yr by mopar440cu

Looks like they sent the fitting common for most 12v.  24v will need a different fitting as you found out.  We include both fittings with our kits as it is a pin to find the right one when your truck is already torn apart.

 

Part you should need is FS-2404-06-04  Available at most hydraulic shops.  We stock a couple hundred 

Hope you receive this information early enough to get parts today!

 

 

ORB stands for O-Ring Boss. 

I actually found a diesel shop a few towns over opened this holiday weekend and believe it or not they had one. Thank God!!

It just got so dark I didn’t have time to finish it. Tomorrow is another day.

Thanks for all your help!!