So this started just after I got the truck home.  I moved from one driveway to an other and the engine stopped.  Restarted moved and stopped.  Then ran fine.  Week later and 1,000 miles into my get to know each other trip and the truck starts hick upping on the freeway going through Portland after 3 hours of driving.  Did it for 7 - 8 times, not in conjunction of the bumps in the road or anything. 

 

So we are a week later and it starts hic-cuping on the way to Ace.  Engine just dies then runs again.  17 PSI on the FASS to the VP.  No Water in the Water Trap.  Does it for 8-10 times.  Just like you bumped the switch off then on again.  I've seen things about data logging the edge is still connected, does it have an data logging capacity?  I'm pulling it off this weekend so that I can get it smogged next week.

 

Checked Codes and

P0521

P1693

P1765

P0622

 

Thanks Guys

Michael

Edited August 31, 20186 yr by int3man
Added Codes

Hi All,

              Well the Battery Terminals were Gross.  So I bought Larry B's Military Battery terminals and used an Industrial contact improvement grease between the Battery terminals and the Battery posts.  cleaned and greased the Metal connectors and should be good to go.  Hopefully this will address the intermittent cut in and out.

 

Thanks All

Michael

On ‎9‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 7:45 PM, int3man said:

Hi All,

              Well the Battery Terminals were Gross.  So I bought Larry B's Military Battery terminals and used an Industrial contact improvement grease between the Battery terminals and the Battery posts.  cleaned and greased the Metal connectors and should be good to go.  Hopefully this will address the intermittent cut in and out.

 

Thanks All

Michael

O.K.  Edge removed.  Battery terminals and connecting wires cleaned and greased.  Truck just hiccupped again this morning.  Ran strong yesterday for a 30 min run.

Codes are :

Oil pressure gauge.  Aux gauge installed.

P1693  ECM ?  I think that this is Battery disconnect related?

P1765  Sorting that out now.  Previous owner had jumped it.  Getting relay.

P0622  Well this is enlightening, intermittent shut down of a perfectly running engine  HMMM..  It looks like a new alternator, but I'll bet it's a rebuilt !!!

 

Tried to Smog it but the batteries had been disconnected so I have to drive it before he will / can smog it.

 

Need a data logger.  What would cause a Blip in Engine run signals?

 

Thanks

Michael

Edited September 19, 20186 yr by int3man

1693 has nothing to do with ECM. It is just telling there is a code in the other computer. PCM/ECM.

 I cant find a 627 listed.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

 

 

1693 has nothing to do with ECM. It is just telling there is a code in the other computer. PCM/ECM.

 I cant find a 627 listed.

I found this on the internet.

https://www.autocodes.com/p0627_dodge.html

My Smog guy say that he can not test with a monitor showing.  I think that is a fuel monitor showing and that is what he was saying.

It was really Bucking and Snorting today.  I need to get this thing Smoged an in my name before it quits running, and I have to sink anymore monies into it! !!  

 

Well my typo I can't read my own hand writing.  It was a P0622 and that is Field windings my friends!

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622

 

Interest can cause intermittent shutdown of the engine!!!!!

Edited September 19, 20186 yr by int3man

I dont think that link has anything to do with our 2nd gens. If a Fass was installed it should have used the factory connection to trigger the fuel system. 9 years with an AD in mine and never a code like most others here.

 If you look here in the articles section under 24V 2nd gen, engine, OBD II error codes there is a full list. Are sure about of the code #?

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

I dont think that link has anything to do with our 2nd gens. If a Fass was installed it should have used the factory connection to trigger the fuel system. 9 years with an AD in mine and never a code like most others here.

 If you look here in the articles section under 24V 2nd gen, engine, OBD II error codes there is a full list. Are sure about of the code #?

Nope you are correct.  It was an P0622  my fat fingers.  Sorry, i couldn't read my own hand writing.   

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0622

 

One of the symptoms is intermittent engine shut down.  May be on to something here!!  Now to find the alternator receipt!!

Here it is from the articles section.

This would be more vehicle specific for your truck.

5 hours ago, dripley said:

nHere it is from the articles section.

This would be more vehicle specific for your truck.

Thanks, I found the receipt and taking to alternator back tomorrow to swap for a "New rebuilt" replacement.  Gona try to swap it out without disconnecting the batteries!  I need to get this pig to market and smogged.

Edited September 20, 20186 yr by int3man

Well I just can't catch a break.  So they (O'Rielly) exchanged the alternator that was manufactured in Malaysia with a Bosch ALT rebuilt in Mexico.  Installed and drove, no code thrown.  Truck quit twice on the way to lunch.  No code.  So next thing is to trace all the Scotch locks that I can find and eliminate them.  This Previous owner loved them from what I can tell.  

 

Also in my panel pulling I fond an Eliminator box?  Reading up on it, it interrupts the Truck Brains so that you are unlimited on speed.  Interesting application on a truck that he purchased used tires for (and he kept the receipts). 

So much for common sense.

 

Michael

Is it cutting out while the engine is under load? Medium to heavy throttle?

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Is it cutting out while the engine is under load? Medium to heavy throttle?

It cuts out everywhere, no rhyme or reason.  Today I stopped and was letting the turbo cool down and it died.   Pulling up to a stop sign and it died.  When I had the edge connected I always looked at the fuel pressure and it was 17 to 18 PSI feeding the VP44.  It's like it just lost the run signal, and that was in traffic.  The fact that the oil Pressure gauge is intermittent, and the Map Sensor shares that 5 volt signal makes me wonder if that is not the root cause.  I have to get it pass smog and into my name before I go much deeper.  While I was putting the stock Air horn on and Heater I cleaned and replaced the battery terminals.  Well that caused me to reset the computer and it wouldn't pass smog because it was in monitor mode.  I have to drive it for a couple of days to clear the computer.

 

I can't buy a break on this thing.

Michael

Edited September 20, 20186 yr by int3man

The fuel pressure was just a hunch. What is your fuel pressure at WOT? As far as disconnecting the batteries, that should have no affect on anything. Taking them loose does nothing to the computer, nothing. I have never heard of monitor mode. I have disconnected mine many many times and have not noticed anything any different from prior to taking them loose. Is it setting some kind code after you disconnect them. I have heard over the years of folks doing this to reset the computer but to my knowledge it does nothing. So what are you or the smog people seeing that is the problem?

 

It's just a Smog thing.  The ODBEC sets a code when the batteries have been disconnected.  For example your check engine light is on and you can't get it to go off.  You have to smog the car.  Disconnect the batteries overnight and the check engine light goes out and you go to smog that morning.  That afternoon the check engine ight comes back on.  So if the batteries are disconnected it sets a monitor code. The car or truck has to be operated for 100- 200 miles, as trips to reset the monitor.  They do this to avid cheating.

 

That is my understanding.  We ran into this with my son's car when he bought it.  It had a dead battery and we put a battery in it and went to smog.  No good.  The guy had us put 75 miles on the car and then it smoged! 

Edited September 21, 20186 yr by int3man

Must be a Cali thing. I have never set a code disconnecting my batteries nor been able to clear one by doing that.

 

How about your fuel pressure at WOT?

18 to 19 PSI  WOT

No drop from idle, thats pretty good.

HI All,

              Fell and banged my knee getting of the stepstool to work on the engine (like a friend said 20 years ago it wouldn't have mattered, three days later still limping!), so I had time on my hands.  So I ran an internet search this weekend.   

 

I found over 75 postings on the internet of the same problem, but no firm replies, I did this and that fixed it.  So I found 3-4 that I think are the best options.  Clean ECM contacts, Clean VP44 contacts.  That makes sense as if you loose the fuel shut off signal, you loose engine function.  That's what is it like you momentarily loose fuel!!!  Last one was there is a 5 volt wire on the lower right hand side of the engine, that might rub on the AC line.  Oh Yea, the other one was check the engine compartment grounds.  I serviced the Battery terminals, but not the other ends!!!!

Get home this weekend.

 

Michael

Edited September 25, 20186 yr by int3man

On ‎9‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 5:20 PM, int3man said:

So if the batteries are disconnected it sets a monitor code. The car or truck has to be operated for 100- 200 miles, as trips to reset the monitor.  They do this to avid cheating

I've reset my monitors by driving on the freeway at 65mph for 5mi one way and then back home, stop and let engine cool.  Do this three times and by the end of the third time the monitors are reset.

Well I don't know whom I pissed off in this deal but it must have been someone important.  So got home yesterday, drove the truck to put another heat cycle on it and clear the monitors.  No Problem.  Get up this morning to heat her up and go to the smog station.  She dies in the driveway.  Restart and she throws the check engine light.  So No Smog this weekend.  But she thru a code that said failure to communicate with VP44.  So I'm disconnecting the batteries and pulling off the air horn and AAPS and inspecting and cleaning the plug to the VP44.  One thing at a time.  Hopefully this will  put it to bed.

Well Fingers crossed.  I dove back in, I had to remove the air horn to get to the VP44 Electrical.  it was "Clean" and well Greased.  So I kept going.  So much for only changing one thing at a time.  I pulled the ECM and cleaned the silicone seal at the bottom of the connector.  Greased the pins with electrical improvement Grease.  Wire brushed the Back side of the ECM where it was supposed to make contact with the block for ground.  Greased all that with improved conductivity grease.  Went over to the Passenger side and reworked the grounds for the PCM.  Caught a little body ground on the drives side.   I was reading an article that stated these Electronic controlled truck like clean good grounds.

 

And traced out the mystery switches under the dash.  Turns out that one of them was powering a Diesel eliminator box.  So I found the instructions for that and yanked it out buy it's teeth!  

 

So Thanks to Mopar1973man I've "amazoned" a Blue tooth ODBEC11 reader (ScanTool OBDLink LX Bluetooth) that will allow me to read and reset the ECM Code that is pending.  

 

I'll report back next week after I get this piggy smoged!  I hope!

 

Thanks All

Michael

Edited September 29, 20186 yr by int3man
Added Picture