Looking for advice whether I should buy and flip or keep this truck. 1997 12 valve 345k Miles 170on rebuilt engine and trans and rear end. Runs good shifts good. Needs hood bumper and radiator which he will throw in for 3500$ Has fiberglass cap and is 2wd. Buy it or nah? 

Auto or manual?

2WD where you live? I say no. You'll end up parking it most of the winter or running chains.

10 minutes ago, dave110 said:

Auto or manual?

Manual. I’m not to worried about the 2wd thing becuase it will be more of a play truck and I have a 4wd 24 valve 

Sorry I meant auto.

I'd probably not. They trashed the first drive train at 175k and now have 170 on the replacement. And sounds like they hit a moose with the front end. No mention of rust problems if any. Sounds like a pretty thrashed truck. But in the end it's up to you.

Just now, dave110 said:

I'd probably not. They trashed the first drive train at 175k and now have 170 on the replacement. And sounds like they hit a moose with the front end. No mention of rust problems if any. Sounds like a pretty thrashed truck. But in the end it's up to you.

It’s in pretty decent shape. No rust. Minimal body damage. But your right sounds like the drive train was thrashed. 

Better get out the checkbook for tools. Being that all tuning is mechanical this means you need the proper tools for setting timing, etc.

 

You thought your 24V is retarded the 12V factor timing was around 11 to 14 degrees with no advancement. Most have to advance the timing to improve the performance. Fuel wise its done with fuel plates and adjustments. DAP has adjustment for the fuel plate for in cab.

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Better get out the checkbook for tools. Being that all tuning is mechanical this means you need the proper tools for setting timing, etc.

 

You thought your 24V is retarded the 12V factor timing was around 11 to 14 degrees with no advancement. Most have to advance the timing to improve the performance. Fuel wise its done with fuel plates and adjustments. DAP has adjustment for the fuel plate for in cab.

Too bad my 24 valve don’t have mechanical timing adjustment. Lol 

Be thankful. 24V is fully dynamic timing. The 12V p-pump is static timing. So if you set a p-pump for 14 degree that is the timing you get across the full range of RPM. Where 24V with the Quadzilla you can get a max now of 32 degree across the full range of RPM. 24V way easier to time. Fire up the Quadzilla. As for the P-pump you have to have the timing kit. Basically remove the #1 delivery valve on the pump measure the lift of the plunger. You have to pull the gear and relocated it on the shaft and tighten the nut without turning the pump shaft. Timing kit isn't cheap either.

 

DAP timing kit.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Edited September 27, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

I've done a lot of buying fixing selling when I was younger, some days I made good money others if I split it all up it was about a buck an hour, and some I lost money just to get rid of it. This type of things worth what people are willing to pay, look around and see what it's going to whorth to you or anyone else when you're done with it. So if you're doing that for experience go for it, if you trying to make money you'd be better off changing brake pads for someone.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Be thankful. 24V is fully dynamic timing. The 12V p-pump is static timing. So if you set a p-pump for 14 degree that is the timing you get across the full range of RPM. Where 24V with the Quadzilla you can get a max now of 32 degree across the full range of RPM. 24V way easier to time. Fire up the Quadzilla. As for the P-pump you have to have the timing kit. Basically remove the #1 delivery valve on the pump measure the lift of the plunger. You have to pull the gear and relocated it on the shaft and tighten the nut without turning the pump shaft. Timing kit is cheap either.

 

DAP timing kit.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Thanks Mike for that info! Good to know. Helps with getting a better understanding of timing. I think at this point I’m going to forget about the truck. Yes it may be cheap but like @dave110 said it has likely been well thrashed being the engine, Trans, and rear end were all rebuilt below 200k. Really appreciate the advice becuase had I not postedninprob would have bough the truck this weekend and wish I hadn’t the next. 

 

21 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I've done a lot of buying fixing selling when I was younger, some days I made good money others if I split it all up it was about a buck an hour, and some I lost money just to get rid of it. This type of things worth what people are willing to pay, look around and see what it's going to whorth to you or anyone else when you're done with it. So if you're doing that for experience go for it, if you trying to make money you'd be better off changing brake pads for someone.

If I could get side jobs for the evenings changing oil and brakes I would jump in it! I live in a rather rural area and I’m problably a little dumb to do that kind of stuff without insurance and stuff. 

Mike I’m waiting for when Qaudzilla comes out with they’re permanently mounted screen. If that comes soon with an affordable price point I’ll start saving for it!

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

If I could get side jobs for the evenings changing oil and brakes I would jump in it! I live in a rather rural area and I’m problably a little dumb to do that kind of stuff without insurance and stuff. 

 

Ummm... What to do you think I do? I do the very same thing. I also live in a rural community too. The closest diesel mechanic is 50 miles away. I've got my own area to work with doing odd jobs. Insurance? What the heck is that? Never had any. The scary part is "Mopar1973Man.Com" is a registered doing business as  (DBA) name also have a sale tax ID with the state. This gives perks of being able to buy parts at wholesale prices.

 

Man if I just get more word of mouth business I would be set! My family don’t give me a lot to do becuase they have all newer vehicles now. 

5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Man if I just get more word of mouth business I would be set! My family don’t give me a lot to do becuase they have all newer vehicles now. 

 

You got to start somewhere... Like my A/C business I did the right thing and hooked up with the local Chevron station which happens to be a NAPA supplier as well. Now they stock my freon for me and I sell it for there price. So, Steve Crump (the owner) makes money on the freon I make money on the labor. Being I've done him right (free A/C work) I still to this day get all his referrals which typically keeps me super busy to the winter time typically.

 

Now my reputation from the website has kept me going with VP44 replacements and Cummins work for the last 5 years. Like I'll go meet up with a few people today and they will see the head job I've pulled off and gives people confidence in having me do the work for them on their vehicle.

 

Basically, dive into your 24V Cummins now put in the effort into making it run perfect and beyond stock without failure. Like the thread about CR injector failures. When I go into Riggins, ID people spot my truck and typically grab me to ask a bunch of question on their trucks. Those 3 people were asking about starting and performance issues on CR engines. All 3 have failed injectors. It pissed them off but it is what it is. 

 

Well I got lucky and got some side work! I have to replace a lower control arm and find a water leak source and fix it. This a 95 12 valve Cummins. Also detailing the same guys suburban. Any tips on control arm and water leak? Thinking water pump or cracked hoses. Control should be strait forward I hope.

Coolant system pressure tester just like I did. Pump it up to about 17 PSI and trace out the water source.

 

Control arm is just replacement. You might want to Jack stand the frame letting the axle hang free.

Mike where did you get your pressure tester? 

Make sure you have extra bolts for the control arm. They almost always break trying to loosen them.

22 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Mike where did you get your pressure tester? 

 

One of my few hand me down tools given to me from a member. Here is like Harbor Freight...

https://www.harborfreight.com/radiator-pressure-tester-kit-63862.html

 

Here is Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-Core-Radiator-Pressure-Tester-Kit-16-Piece-39411/303479578

On 9/27/2018 at 6:00 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

 Like the thread about CR injector failures. When I go into Riggins, ID people spot my truck and typically grab me to ask a bunch of question on their trucks. Those 3 people were asking about starting and performance issues on CR engines. All 3 have failed injectors. It pissed them off but it is what it is. 

 

What portion of the information you gave pissed them off Mike? 

5 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

What portion of the information you gave pissed them off Mike? 

 

The fact you looking at about $3,500 to just replace the injectors.

 

BBI 0.5 Stage injectors (mild increase)

https://smartyresource.com/store/product/32-bbi-injector-set-stage-05-03-04/

 

True new Bosch factory injectors.

https://smartyresource.com/store/product/64-2003-2004-stock-bosch-injectors/

 

No one around here has $3,500 extra laying around for injectors. I know of at least 2 trucks that are now parked and no longer used. You can buy a used Ford Ranger truck for that much...

 

Here I am with a older 2nd Gen... For ten times less...

https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-aftermarket-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vcoa

Edited October 1, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man