Hey guys,

 

I just replaced my front suspension coils with a  2" level kit including shocks with Thuren Fabrication brand parts, and I also replaced the stock track-bar with a Synergy adjustable.  Everything was installed per manufacturer's recommendations.  My truck still makes a noise when I hit a bump and it's annoying.  I have 35x12.50R20LT tires, though I doubt thats what's making or causing the noise.  I'm not sure if its the ball joints or not.  But in you guys experience, what all components would contribute to a hard ride and a "knock" like sound when hitting a bump in the road.  I have the same issue on the rear, but those shocks haven't been changed as yet.  I only have the stock leaf spring and shocks on the rear.  I will change the shocks once I narrow down what the problem is on the front suspension.

44 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! 

 

The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

thanks bud.  Will do

If you torch the ball joints be careful. @Mopar1973Man did you not have one of the studs on yours blow out of the joint with quiie a bit force a while back or was that someone else?

I rebuilt my front end at 240k on the oe parts. Replaced them all with Moog, pre federal mogul, and sitting at 215k on them now hoping they go another 50k. We will see. 

34 minutes ago, dripley said:

If you torch the ball joints be careful. @Mopar1973Man did you not have one of the studs on yours blow out of the joint with quiie a bit force a while back or was that someone else?

 

Yeah, that was me... 

 

What he said is true. I heated the ball joint knuckle to help expand the metal. We started with a propane torch but no luck. Then fired up the acetylene torch and heated the ball joint good. The ball joint start to vent a very foul vapor that burned the eyes and horrid to breathe. We bailed out the shop and let that cool some. I can back in and sat down and hit the knuckle with a 6-pound hammer...

 

BOOM!!!

Then I open my eyes to the feeling of hot grease splattered all over my face. The ball stud exploded hit the floor, whizzed past me and the fender. Spraying me with hot grease. Hit the ceiling, then hit the floor, then hit my buddy in the thigh just about giving him a 3rd nut for life.  

 

So... If i was to do it again. I would just burn the top off completely. Push the ball stud out. Using a hacksaw relief cut the cap. Knock it out with a hammer. I'm not going to fight the whole ball joint press thing again... Screw that...

Edited October 31, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

That is still a funny story. Takes a good friend to come for more after that. 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Takes a good friend to come for more after that. 

 

No longer here... He's long gone... Washington...

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! 

 

The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

 

The trick in this video hasn't failed me yet in getting a stuck hub / bearing assembly out of a knuckle.

 

 

That method I managed to break my socket twice. Now having to buy that socket at the local hardware store for nearly $25 bucks is no cheap. That method works well when you have a partner to watch and yell back. I'm typically working solo. 

That method is exactly how I did mine...popped em off fairly easily.  That tells you how strong that power steering is.

38 minutes ago, Bullet said:

That method is exactly how I did mine...popped em off fairly easily.  That tells you how strong that power steering is.

Me too

Me three.

 

- John

Edited November 1, 20186 yr by Tractorman

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yeah, that was me... 

 

What he said is true. I heated the ball joint knuckle to help expand the metal. We started with a propane torch but no luck. Then fired up the acetylene torch and heated the ball joint good. The ball joint start to vent a very foul vapor that burned the eyes and horrid to breathe. We bailed out the shop and let that cool some. I can back in and sat down and hit the knuckle with a 6-pound hammer...

 

BOOM!!!

Then I open my eyes to the feeling of hot grease splattered all over my face. The ball stud exploded hit the floor, whizzed past me and the fender. Spraying me with hot grease. Hit the ceiling, then hit the floor, then hit my buddy in the thigh just about giving him a 3rd nut for life.  

 

So... If i was to do it again. I would just burn the top off completely. Push the ball stud out. Using a hacksaw relief cut the cap. Knock it out with a hammer. I'm not going to fight the whole ball joint press thing again... Screw that...

 

I was changing a couple of SPL250 U-joints on a Freightliner a couple of years ago and let's just say I'll never use the heat and beat method for any type of press fit parts.  One of the cups exploded and I basically got shot with a piece of the cup. I've invested in a lot of specialty tools since then to handle pretty much any press fit parts.

 

Below is the X-ray before surgery and a picture after surgery that shows the entry wound and the extraction incision.

Edited November 1, 20186 yr by 04Mach1

Ouch!  Note to self...no heating of press fit parts!  

12 minutes ago, Bullet said:

Ouch!  Note to self...no heating of press fit parts!  

 

 

And make sure when driving pins out of heavy equipment with a 8 pound sledge and big punch to make sure and hit the punch.

 

Edited November 1, 20186 yr by 04Mach1

Dang man...it's a good thing you're right handed!  Cuz you've been giving that left arm all kinds of hell.  You gotta be careful out there bro...

Edited November 1, 20186 yr by Bullet

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

BOOM!!!

 

I did the same thing.  Only I didn't go outside and wait for it to cool off and then come back and hit it with a hammer.  I was smarter.  I stayed on the job and kept applying heat until it let loose. 

 

I never saw the ball stud, but I heard it hit several different places in the shop at supersonic speeds.  It left quite a dent in the floor, too.  It took a few minutes to find it, but it gave me some time to reflect on just how stupid I was for applying heat to a sealed ball joint.  Fortunately, I and my helper were not injured, but not because of any skill on my part.

 

- John

8 hours ago, 04Mach1 said:

And make sure when driving pins out of heavy equipment with a 8 pound sledge and big punch to make sure and hit the punch

Some beach,..

20 hours ago, Toughspot said:

What about AC Delco or Duralast?

 

I think the seal style is more important than the ball joint, especially for the bottom. Note the difference in the seal, the cheap joint (same as oem) actually has the better seal. How can the (expensive one) seal out water/contamination with a slip on seal?