This is an edit on what I wrote below: There is definitely something wrong in the pump controls which must mean the ecm. I started thinking about the transmission phantom shifting problems these truck have when the alternator is leaking ac current in to the dc system. That has been happening to me occasionally. I decided to clean my battery terminals as they needed it and can be a contributing factor to the power/ecm issue. I then started the truck and had no problem with the lift pump cutting out for 15 minutes then it shut off again. I pulled up the electrical schematic and found the positive wire to the lift pump split in to two wires that both go in to the ecm. I am really not sure what to do about this. 

I have a Raptor FRRP-100 lift pump which works great up to now and is plugged in to the stock wire loom connector. Today I was driving along cheerfully when I lost power and started smoking. I noticed my fuel pressure to the injector pump was 0. I was fairly low on fuel so I limped in to the fuel station and filled her up. When I started it I had pressure so I assumed it was just a low tank and cold diesel. A few minutes later same thing happened so I limped it home. I am now finding that sometimes when I start it I have pressure and other times I do not. The times I do have pressure it doesn't last long before the pressure drops off. I am feeling that this is an electrical issue, not a mechanical pump issue. I did consider that maybe my low tank clogged the fuel filter but it looks great. There is no in between with the pressure, it is either on or off which is what I think it is electrical. I am not sure where to begin on troubleshooting this thing. Any thoughts?

 

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, Auto Transmission, stock all the way except a set of gauges (Fuel Press, Trans Temp, and EGT) and a Raptor FRRP-100 lift pump.

23 minutes ago, Winesalot said:

I lost power and started smoking.

Was it the engine that lost power, where was the smoke coming from and did it smell like burning wires?

The Raptor pump may be binding and the amp load is being increased on those small gauge wires that can't handle the increased load. 

 

You need to check for 12V at the fuel pump connector when the pressure drops to 0. If no power at the fuel pump then check for power at the ECM 50 pin connector pin #15 and #35.   If there is power at the ECM then the fuel pump wire should be ohm tested for continuity from the ECM teminals #15 and #35  to the fuel pump.   If no power at the ECM then it may be damaged and will need to be removed and tested.

 

A fuel pump relay should be installed to protect the ECM. 

 

5 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Was it the engine that lost power, where was the smoke coming from and did it smell like burning wires?

The Raptor pump may be binding and the amp load is being increased on those small gauge wires that can't handle the increased load. 

 

You need to check for 12V at the fuel pump connector when the pressure drops to 0. If no power at the fuel pump then check for power at the ECM 50 pin connector pin #15 and #35.   If there is power at the ECM then the fuel pump wire should be ohm tested for continuity from the ECM teminals #15 and #35  to the fuel pump.   If no power at the ECM then it may be damaged and will need to be removed and tested.

 

A fuel pump relay should be installed to protect the ECM. 

 

Smoke was coming from exhaust pipe and it was blueish.  Do you think the cold weather and thicker diesel could cause the increased load on the pump?

 

I am installing the relay set up in the referenced thread before I drive it again.

7 hours ago, Winesalot said:

13 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

Smoke was coming from exhaust pipe and it was blueish.

I think you might have two problems. 

 

Blue smoke from the tail pipe is oil being burned in the combustion chamber.    The cause of this could be: an over filled crank case, worn valve guide seals, worn or damaged piston rings, problem with the turbo charger.   Frist place I would check is the oil level. 

 

If oil level is OK then remove the air hose from the turbocharger and check compressor wheel for play or oil.  Check the rear of the turbo for oil staining. 

 

The other problem is in the fuel system having 0 pressure at times.  Start with the electrical test first.  

16 hours ago, Winesalot said:

Today I was driving along cheerfully when I lost power and started smoking. I noticed my fuel pressure to the injector pump was 0

 

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

I think you might have two problems. 

 

I think the "0" pump pressure and "lost power and started smoking" symptoms are likely to be from the same problem since they occurred at the same time.  If the fuel flow to the VP-44 is restricted for whatever reason, it could cause the "bluish" smoke.

 

- John

I had a lot blue smoke when the oe VP was giving up. A new cured it. I am NOT saying your VP is bad by any means, more trouble shooting is in order.

9 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

 

I think the "0" pump pressure and "lost power and started smoking" symptoms are likely to be from the same problem since they occurred at the same time.  If the fuel flow to the VP-44 is restricted for whatever reason, it could cause the "bluish" smoke.

 

- John

I agree.  I bought a relay today and I'll get it installed in a couple of days when I get done with night shifts.  Hopefully that solves my problem.  If not, having the wires from the ecm and to the pump with easy access will help with diagnostics.

Edited December 5, 20186 yr by Winesalot

Low fuel pressure usually causes blue smoke in diesels. If cylinders aren't charged correctly and don't fire and make good cylinder pressure then piston is on it's way down by inertia creating a vacuum this vacuum sucks oil in creating smoke. Also cylinder pressure make a better seal on top rings
,

We have a kleeman crusher/screen at work. Scania diesel. Primary fuel filter blocks  it looks like there's pistons missing it smokes that bad

Update:  Yesterday I installed the pump relay per 

 , thank you IBMobile.  Other than it was a pain in the *** to cut, strip, and connect to wires down by the lift pump this was an easy project with your post.

 

After installing the relay the truck and lift pump started normally 5 or so times so I decided to take it for a test drive.  After stopping at a friends it had zero pressure on the lift pump when I went to leave.

 

I limped it home and got our my electrical meter and both the lead to the relay from the ecm and the lead to the pump from the relay had 14+ volts.  I am guessing that I have an intermittently bad pump.

Put the new pump in on Friday and drove the truck all day Saturday with no issues.  

 

Problem solved.