I copied this from Diesel Addict

  " There is a diaphragm located inside the VP44 injection pump that is very sensitive.  This VP44 diaphragm works best under pressures between 10 and 15 PSI. Some pumps will be able to run higher than that but Thoroughbred Diesel does not recommend it. After changing your VP44, if you notice continued hard starting or feel as though the pump is getting bogged down, it is probably time to check the lift pump pressure. Our recommendation for optimum fuel pressure is 12 PSI of the VP 44".

 

Reason I ask is because I replaced my manual FP gauge with an electric Auto Meter that has a warning light for to low/high fuel pressure. Plus I've read you should not have than 15psi max pressure, I have  Raptor 150 that I can adjust FP.

Edited December 16, 20186 yr by Blueox01

21 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

There is a diaphragm located inside the VP44 injection pump that is very sensitive.

 

Lie... Doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps.

Steel plate. Rubber diaphragm doesn't exist...  

 

Everything inside the VP44...

 

Optimal Fuel pressure: 14-20 PSI. This keeps the overflow valve open and return fuel moving. 

 

Edited December 16, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

Now I wish I would have bought a 30 psi gauge instead of the 15psi I did.

I have been running between 15 to 20 psi the entire 240k mile life of this VP. Only see the 15 psi at WOT. Normal driving i see 17.5 to 20.

15 to 17 PSI on the last VP44 for 243k miles... 1/4 of a million miles is pretty good in my book.

Tested the check valve, need one of them too.

What's a Revision 027 pump?

Edited December 16, 20186 yr by Blueox01

57 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

Tested the check valve, need one of them too.

What's a Revision 027 pump?

Every reman these days is built to 027 specs.

27 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Every reman these days is built to 027 specs.

My Reman is 12-13 yrs old, Truck has been Idle since 2010.

Edited December 17, 20186 yr by Blueox01

You can use a mirror and look at the data plate on the pump to see what rev you have. 

Ya, I was going to do that, because I have a question whether it's a 17X vs 15x pump also, not sure of the difference between them for sure 1 for H.O & 1 for S.O.?

26 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You can use a mirror and look at the data plate on the pump to see what rev you have. 

Last 2 digits serial # is 28 So that means it's a 17x? and then it's hand engraved with 026 best I can tell

Wow! If that is true you got Rev 026 pump. 

 

As for the serial number I'm not sure. HO pumps are high pressure, low volume pumps good for MPG use. Then SO pumps are high volume, lower pressure pumps good for building HP/TQ. 

52 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Wow! If that is true you got Rev 026 pump. 

 

As for the serial number I'm not sure. HO pumps are high pressure, low volume pumps good for MPG use. Then SO pumps are high volume, lower pressure pumps good for building HP/TQ. 

How many Revision has this pump had?  When I say H.O I'm speaking to the 245HP/6 Speed engine vs the 235HP Auto's/5 Speed engines. I would have replaced the Original VP After my 53 block cracked if my memory is correct, witch was before I swapped in the 8406 trans,I wish I could find my Maintenance papers, I used to log everything. But I'm thinking the Reman ( From a Bosch Auth reman) locally would have been around 2007- 2008, So I'm just trying to understand what I have.

Edited December 17, 20186 yr by Blueox01

I'm not sure of the revision number but older pumps had the rubber diaphragm where the 027 has the steel plate. Then the timing piston sleeve was brass in the past where the 027 is a hardened steel sleeve now. All parts in the 027 are hardened steel. 

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm not sure of the revision number but older pumps had the rubber diaphragm where the 027 has the steel plate. Then the timing piston sleeve was brass in the past where the 027 is a hardened steel sleeve now. All parts in the 027 are hardened steel. 

But the Revision # would have been hand engraved correct?

I'll have to pull my shop pump out and show you in a picture. I'll do that in the morning. Raining here now. 

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'll have to pull my shop pump out and show you in a picture. I'll do that in the morning. Raining here now. 

You don't have to do that, those are just what look like the Reman facility did with inexpensive dot-dot engraver with a dot-dot circle around it as well as a rebuild serial # very faint, maybe I need to scrape of the three coats of paint I sprayed on it. When my pump failed it was the electronics, I would get a dead spot almost like the exhaust was plugged, then it would run fine for 500 miles or so and do it again.

2 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

When my pump failed it was the electronics, I would get a dead spot almost like the exhaust was plugged, then it would run fine for 500 miles or so and do it again.

 

Alternator AC Noise issues. This is where the W-T ground mod is handy.

9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Alternator AC Noise issues. This is where the W-T ground mod is handy.

In the process of doing that now, wish I would have seen that article before I unwrapped all my harnesses and re-wrapped them to make them look pretty. When you say AC noise, am I understanding that too mean Alternating Current noise?  Also I would like to figure out how to fuse it, I had a regulator go out and overcharged both batteries, spew acid on both front fenders, like that not to happen again.

Edited December 17, 20186 yr by Blueox01

Here watch the video...

 

 

Interesting.  Question, the only reason your cutting the ground splice in this W-T mod is for the wire, correct? My Batt Cables were shot so I bought Marine cables and put new lugs on all the wires, really no need for me to cut that gray connector off at the splice and reuse, just run Neg cable from Batt to the back of the Timing cover, that was done just for convenience?

Wonder if something like this would work to install a breaker in the charge wire.

Then you might look here...

Then installing the field wire fuse..,