This is my first post but I've been a long time lurker and have found tons of information here, so thanks y'all!

 

I'm currently chasing a fuel leak in my 2001 that has eluded me at every opportunity.  

 

The leak is on the rear of the engine and only occurs after being driven some distance.  Around town it doesn't leak, but every morning after my 17 mile commute to work it leaves a softball to dinner plate size puddle under the truck.  

 

I have replaced the washers on the return banjo on the back of the head and the seals in the fuel return tee.  Upon doing this I noticed that the return tee is just hanging there, the mounting tab isn't bolted to anything.  I can't see enough to tell what it should bolt to.  The factory lift pump is no longer there if that matters.  It was removed when the frame mounted lift pump was installed.  Anyone know what that tab bolts to?

 

Thanks!

Alot of that depends on which way you go tuning wise. The EZ and rv 275s would be great together. But if you get a quad , that changes things 

Well today I pulled the trigger on a set of DAP 7 x 0.010 injectors.  I agree that if I am far enough in there to change the connector tube seals that I may as well replace the injectors with close to 300k on them.  The kit is supposed to come with the connector tube tool and everything needed.  Anything else I need to have on hand?  I've had the lines off in the past replacing the VP and again for the tappet cover so that is straight forward.  Valve cover has been off before adjusting valves .   Going to have to hold off on the quad for a while until fundages improvis.

 

Thanks

Dave

That connector tube tool is just a nut that will thread on the tubes after they are removed. Not sure why they include it. They will pop out easily with a screw driver. It wont f them up the steel in those is extremely hard and the threads are only there for removal of the tubes.

 When you install the injectors be sure to snug up you fuel lines to the cross over tubes before you tighten the injector hold downs. This will align the tubes in the injector and save you some leak headaches.

I make sure to inspect the holes for debris. Then the crossover tube I lightly grease the threads to the o-ring. This is for corrosion protection. I tend to get a few crossover tubes with water corrosion issues from power washing the engine. Like right now my engine is nearly white from the salt being splashed up on the engine and crystalized. 

Would it be safe to clean the crossover tubes and injector lines in the partswasher? Any particular grease to use?  

Typically I would just use brake clean and using the straw blow it from the injector side toward the line side to flush any small debris out. Then use compressed air to blow from the same direction. I high suggest now to put them in a parts washer being there might be grit and debris in the wash tub. This will cause wear damage to the injectors possibly. 

 

I just use the same red grease that I use in my grease gun. High temp. 

Gotcha.  Brake cleaner it is.  I've read your write-up and watched a few YouTube videos so I'm confident that it's not going to be that bad.  Except for number 6.

For noobies... I highly suggest just pulling the injector lines completely off. 1,2,4 in the first group. Then 3, 5, 6 in the second group. Now with that all removed it much easier to get #6 out. 

 

Now I had a member from Sandpoint, ID drive down here and showed up at like 7pm in the even in just under 1 hour I managed to change all 6 injectors without removing any injector lines at all. You can flex then just slightly and sneak the crossover tubes out just enough to change the injectors. 

 

Being you want to inspect I would suggest just removing the lines. You will need a mirror and a flashlight to look into the 5 and 6 holes. 

I've got a borescope I'll take a peek in there with.  I was planning on complete removing the injector lines so I could clean the top of the intake manifold really well.