So bought a kit and tore into. Just to see. I did file a thing yeah a thing. And enlarged ports one size up.

Was cool seeing it and seeing what had been done already. A few drill bits bumped up file the thingy.

 

Got the TV throttle stop on the wrong side of the stop bolt. Luckily backing the bolt out allowed the arm to go by.

 

I pulled clip on park rod.

Went back together pretty quick.

Sitting here thinking on it. 

I've adjusted band per transgo directions snug it with short wrench and back out 2. Pretty sure it went back to where it was.

 

I love pressure screw were I had it. I was just shy of 150psi at wot before I doubt that will change much.

Getting ready to finish and go home. I've dedicated most of today to the truck. Exhaust and tranny fun

 

Cross your fingers.

 

 

 

 

Few pictures tore down

One metal check ball came out without seeing were it went. Finally noticed the tub it went in.

Bolted everything together minus filter grrrr. By then feeling confident where things go.

Cherry bombs kinda a pain to get lined up.  Eclip on park rod was supringly easy. 

Offcourse as these things go weve got a pair of trucks waiting to get attention after mine.

 

I did learn I need to be more organized. Thought I was being organized but realized I can't tell what's what ounce taken apart. The 3 valve body sections seem to take on different shapes

 

I've been running the older filter. In 98.5 the filter loses half the filter area all the old 727 style like this. You get more plasticky than filter. Can also run alittle higher fluid level. I guess not sure why you couldnt run higher levels with the new filter.

Check fluid level in gear with some standing on the brake bought 1500rpm. 

 

Let everyone know how it performs when you get it running again 

 

This Thread worth a lot with those pics Thank you

Feels good. Barely any change. Maybe a slightly firm 1-2 second shift. 2-3 seems about the same. Lock up a noticable amount firmer. Maybe quicker. Truck seems maybe quicker on the bottom end. 

 

I'm running about 50/50 tractor transmission fluid and multi vehicle dex3/4 took about 12quarts to refill it.

Did you reset the TV stop after you backed it out? What did you set it at? I also would definitely not be running the fluid any higher than what is indicated in the dipstick...just FWIW.

Yes Ireset TV stop back to were I had it initially adjusted.

 

I'd like to pick your brain when inside this thing. My valve body had already been gone through. I mainly did it just to see what all was done. 

 

I didnt do the second gear lock mod. I may tear it down and do it. Now that I know it's not as scarey as its seemed.

 

I'm curious what exactly all the mods are for they're purpose and why. The transgo direction's say do this but dont say what doing that does. I know transgo is not the do all.  I'd be curious what other mods are available for someone like me to do.

 

Like file a angle on the valve thingy in one spot. I did that mod m builder didnt, if it did anything I cant tell. He opted not to do it.

 

I mainly gained experience doing this. 

One of the things I highly recommend NOT doing if you are installing a Transgo kit is grind the angle on the switch valve. It removes the ability of the switch valve to regulate converter charge pressure. The switch valve actually performs a dual purpose. It hydraulically commands the converter clutch to lockup when it fully strokes, but it also regulates converter charge pressure when running unlocked. An unmodified switch valve and spring will regulate charge pressure at about 130 psi. Some builders think that it's a good thing to allow full line pressure to charge the converter. (I do not fall into this group.) In forward gears, this is not as big of a deal as line pressure even with a well calibrated street valve body will likely be in the 185-190 psi range at the top end; only 50 or 60 psi above where it would be with the switch valve intact. Not exactly the end of the world... But where you run into trouble is in reverse, where line pressure can top 300 psi in certain instances. This is a recipe for ballooning converters and killing thrust bearings.

Dam I did grind it. I guess I know now. Also didnt know that psi could be that high in reverse. Always learning

Wot locked I'm just shy of 150

 thinking about turning it up some though for now I cant afford a turbo or programmer. So I'm not needing more pressure 

No signs of slipping or shudder. One thing I would like is a quicker 2-3 shift

Would drilling the hole in plate bigger accomplish that. Got both 1-2 and 2-3 drilled at .106. 1-2 is a very quick firm but not to firm shift 2-3 is a good shift but not as quick I dont see any rpm change but I can feel it takes longer than 1-2. Would upping line pressure 5-10psi quicking it? Or slightly tighter TV cable? Shifts are right where I like them 2700 wot 2200 moderate throttle.

 

What do you think of those Reman valve bodies on ebay. Suspobly a jr kit installed in them. Take one of those and start fresh.

 

Thanks for your time dynamic 

At the pressure your transmission would be operating at during those 2 shifts (boost valve off), a .106 orifice would be OK for the 1-2, but would be a bit light for the 2-3. You can certainly go bigger if you want to quicken it. You can turn up the PR spring if you want, but that's going to increase everything across the board - all shifts. Same with the TV adjustment - it will affect all shifts. Having said that, I like to see a 24-valve shift at closer to 2900 or 3000 rpm at WOT, so I would tighten yours until it does. This will firm up your shifts a bit across the board.

Yeah I'd just like to quicken 2-3. Maybe I'll raise wot shifts and see how I like it across the board.

Why do you like shifts at 2900-3000? I rarely go there. Only when tuning.

 

Lot of work to drill 1 hole maybe I'll get a new switch valve and drill the hole.

 

Is there a kit you recommend.  I want it more for the how to and running options.

 

Thanks again for your time

 

 

Would you also recomend 12v wot shifts up a few hundred? I'm also playing with one of those

Edited April 9, 20196 yr by Evan

I like the WOT 1-2 shift at 2900-3000. It won't shift that high unless you go WOT. It's a good benchmark to use for setting the TV cable. There are no "kits" on the market that I can say really address everything that needs to be addressed. That's why there are guys like myself that custom build valve bodies. These valve bodies are complex in some ways, painfully simple in others, but definitely unique in how they operate. There is a LOT of R&D that goes into a good setup...

Yes I agree. It's amazing how fluid flows through the vains. It may be simple but it sure doesnt look it when my eyes are looking at it. I have the deer in the headlights look. 

Is there any mods that can be done to make truck pull harder under light throttle/lower pressure short of a lower stall converter?

 

I've seen a few 47res for cheap, I' have been tempted to watch for one and try my hand at building one for later down the rd. 

 

What do you think of the jb weld 2nd gear lock mod? I want to do it but something to me doesnt feel right about blocking a passage with jb weld.

The stock converter is not a very good piece. A good converter is your best friend when setting those things up.

 

47RE's are dime-a-dozen. Finding one should be easy. Getting one apart and back together is pretty easy, but knowing what to do when you're in there, and what parts to use? Priceless...

 

JB Weld can work, I suppose, but it's not exactly the right way to do it.

I have a billet single disc was told its lower stall. But feels more like factory stall to me. 

All I can verify is its billet because I saw that much with my owns eyes. I did a billet flexplate to.

 

I didnt do kevlar bands to, suposebly kevlar can wear the drumb? I did alot of research pulled the tranny and took it to a local tranny guy I've known for years that does very good work. 

 

I'm getting more into it now. Confidence in my wrenching ability is growing. Maybe that's a bad thing.

 

I did toy with th he idea tig welding the port but the idea faded fast that could potentially ruin a good valve body

Edited April 9, 20196 yr by Evan

I don't run a single disc converter in any 47RE or 48RE setup. Only triples leave my shop.

 

You definitely DON'T want kevlar bands.

I've been kicking myself for not ponying up and doing a triple.

Maybe later

Dynamic.  I'm hoping to drop the pan and up pressure today. I hope.

I'm just shy of 150 right now. With the plate drilled .106 would bumping pressure to 165 be okay? Maybe 170. 3 or so revolutions on the pressure screw maybe 4.

 

15-20psi should change everything noticably

 

Thanks for all your help.

Drain plug is still the best 47re upgrade ever.

 

Hauled some dirt then did this on the job site.

 

Bumped up pressure 

This made 1-2 harsh 2-3 still not what I want.

Backed of TV slightly slightly better but shifting sooner than I like at light throttle. 

Probly going to going back in and back off pressure just a touch then reset tv.

My eyes popped out of my head. There was a bolt in the pan. The torxe bolt that's in pressure solenoid plate. I think that's what called. But being put didnt seem to affect it.

 

This tunning never ends. I like it though.

 

I am curious to try a valve body done by dynamic or anyone really would it be bolt n go or would I be tunning for years.  

 

With more pressure I did notice the truck sounded different as soon as I dropped it into gear. Seemed to need less throttle to move.

Edited April 21, 20196 yr by Evan

What are your orifice sizes; 1-2, and 2-3?

.106 what size would you recommend for 2-3 leave 1-2 at .106. Psi 150+

 

Mores pressure didnt fix 2-3 its still sloppy. 2-3 isnt horrible but can be improved on. Sometimes i barly feel it sonetines it is firm but delayed. 1-2 is always very quick

 

I bumped pressure already and it made 1-2 cringing harsh even tried adjusting it out with TV. That helped but I went back in and backed off pressure 2 turns. 

This helped alot and still gained alittle pressure. Firmer quicker across the bored. 3rd still sloppy compared to 1-2. I did not put a gauge on it it should be above 150 now.

 

TV has no slack. I'm down shifting alittle early.

Does more minimum line pressure cause early downshifting. I'm hoping more minimum pressure will cause later downshifts so I can turn TV stop in alittle.

Right now itl downshift before touching the brakes and tends to downshift at times when I'd rather it didnt.

I like how its pulling on the bottom and dont want to lose any pressure off idle.

 

Maybe a couple more times off with the pan. Thanks so much for your help. I'm learning alot working on this thing.

 

Maybe save up for shafts and triple fir some day. Then start valve body tuning al over again.

 

Just did a test drive. With lots of fuel down low its light-moderate throttle shifting at about 2k. Pulling hard 3rd kinda sluggish still feel it.

 

Wide open Its above 2500 tires screaming barely feel 1-2 2-3 I heard it in the tires lockup quick but not to firm. Big **** eating grin. Lower pressure on this setting it was light to mod throttle shifting at around 1500

 

Also noticed with cold tranny down shifts were much later so I think I can turn in TV stop to push downshifts back alittle with more pressure..

 

Gona deal with the 2-3 shift for now. Not sure that drilling the 2-3 passage in the plate will quicken it? It's only bad at certain throttle positions. sometimes it's very nice. Dont notice it lugging around like I normally drive. Though crystal even noticed it. I said I know I dont like that shift. Grrrrr

 

 

 

 

Edited April 23, 20196 yr by Evan

Set your TV cable so the WOT 1-2 shift occurs at 2900 and leave it. Don't be messing with the lever stop adjustment. Set it to factory specs and leave it alone. It sounds like your TV cable is on the tight side if it has no slack in it at WOT, your upshifts are coming in late, and your downshift are early. Did you use the TV pressure regulator spring for the Transgo kit? Was there wear on the end of your TV plunger? Wear in the TV regulator valve bore?

 

So your 2-3 shift orifice is at .106"? That's pretty small at that pressure. Enlarging it will firm up that shift. Where do you have your front band set? That will affect the feel of the 2-3 shift also. The orifice sizing I use for the 2-3 is much smaller because I have the boost valve on once the 1-2 shift is completed, so it wouldn't be much help to you.

 

Line pressure will not affect your shift points. That is determined by TV pressure and governor pressure, not line pressure.