Hey guys looks like I fried my trans this weekend coming back from a great camping trip. I’m looking at rebuilding the transmission with the help of a good friend and certified tech. My question is I’m not sure how much power I’m pushing and how much I should build the trans. I do not plan to add any more power to the truck than what I have now. If any maybe 200hp injectors instead of my 125s. I have been looking at the ATS master overhaul kit or a suncoast category 2 kit. Anybody have info on either of these kits or know of a better kit? 

@DYNAMIC...

 

look him up on here, or dynamic transmissions....save your self some money, and learn along the way.

I don't know anything about those kits you mentioned but the biggest weak links are the stock torque converter and valve body so I would definitely upgrade those with a proven single disc converter and a valve body or valve body kit that works well with your chosen torque converter.  I can only speak from experience with Goerend parts cuz that's what I have and they have been rock solid on mine at 500-600hp.

 

I wouldn't bother with a billet input shaft or upgraded flex plate unless you have a torque converter lockup switch and do locked shifts.  I would suggest a billet accumulator cuz the stock one is plastic and that's never a good idea.  Also I would consider a 3.8 front band arm kit which gives more leverage than the shorter stock arm.  Lastly I would consider a deeper pan and filter spacers that holds more oil with and has a drain plug and temp sensor port if you plan to run a trans temp gauge.  Raybestos clutch and steel plates and bands are what I'm running successfully as well.

 

I'm torn on single or triple disc.

 

I did all upgrades in my but stopped short and did a single disc. Another grand would have got me a triple disc.

 

I did do a goerend billett flexplate. At 300 bucks it was cheap in my mind. The stock flex plate is very thin in comparison I didnt want to chance reinstalling it and ripping g the bolts out down the rd or cracking it.

 

My tranny has lots of suncoast stuff. 

 

I did research on bands and decided not to run kevlar bands. 

I also had a known builder kn mu area put it together at the time I was scared.

 

My valve body just has a tfod diesel transgo kit in it. Has shown no signs of slipping or shuddering.  Would be cool to someday try a valve body done by dynamic. I also saw a triple disc on his website that's rumored to play nice with stock shafts. Though I feel mileage may vary on that comment I've seen triples run on stock shafts rightly up until they snap a the shaft.

 

I'm now still tuning my valve body been kinda on going like it always is with me and my truck.  I'm learning alot more and feeling confident in my abilities.

 

I might get a junk 47re and build as a spare or for fun later on down the rd.

 

Good luck and have fun with it.

 

Ohhh I think with a single disc and all good internals you can hold 500. Mi es holding 300 plus easy may e 350 I have no real clue what power my truck makes.

 

A stock input shaft becomes a liability at about 400 hp. If your plans include more power than this, a billet shaft is a must.

 

I, personally, will not run a single disc in any application behind a Cummins. They all get triple disc converters, but then again, they all run my valve bodies as well. Lockup calibrations are critical to making a triple disc converter work well. I run triple disc converters on stock input shafts all of the time.

 

FWIW, a 47RE already has a 3.8:1 band lever...

 

Here are the kits that we sell here. They are, quite literally, the parts lists that we use on our in-house builds (with the machine work already done for you).

https://dynamictransparts.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-do-it-yourself/dodge-rebuild-parts-kits?product_id=60

https://dynamictransparts.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-do-it-yourself/dodge-rebuild-parts-kits?product_id=61

 

This is the valve body that I would recommend.

https://dynamictransparts.com/dynamic-quantum-valve-body/dynamic-hd-towing-valve-body

@Dynamic which kit would you recommend for me from your website? I do not plan to add any more power, only other modifications I see in the future is regearing front and rear diff 

Dynamic phone teck support is well worth the added cost of the stage3, kidding I'm sure support is included with the stage 2 aswell

 

1700 in parts seems like alot but it's not its upgrading everything

 

I think if I was ordering parts I'd do stage3 plus valve body plus triple converter bolted to goerend fcb flexplate.

 

I really like that I have a billet converter bolted to a biller flex plate.

9 hours ago, KBecker443 said:

@Dynamic which kit would you recommend for me from your website? I do not plan to add any more power, only other modifications I see in the future is regearing front and rear diff 

If you're at or under 400 hp, then the Stage 2 would be fine. If you're over 400 hp, you'd be on borrowed time with your stock input shaft. That is the most significant difference between the two kits; the billet input shaft in the Stage 3 kit. I would probably lean toward the Stage 3 with the mods you have listed.

7 hours ago, Evan said:

Dynamic phone teck support is well worth the added cost of the stage3, kidding I'm sure support is included with the stage 2 aswell

 

1700 in parts seems like alot but it's not its upgrading everything

Yes, there is tech support for every kit we sell.

I tossed your stage 2 in the shopping cart to see price. 

 

How much is your core. If I guy gets pre built tranny from you. 

 

You dont do 4.2 levers and stick to the 3.8?

 

 

 

 

Transmission core charge is technically $1200; $1000 for the transmission, and $200 for the freight container. Sound expensive? Remember, I don't want your core money, I want your CORE back so I can build it for the next guy! Having said that, I generally don't charge for the core on most deals. I'm kind of old school, where if you verbally tell me that you're going to send my core back, I trust you. The only ones who win by me charging your card $1200, only to refund it 2 weeks later is the bank. And the one who loses on that deal? Me... So far, I have not had any issues with transmission cores. Now converters and valve bodies? Different story... Those always get a core charge.

 

The Stage 2 uses the stock 3.8 band lever, the Stage 3 uses a TCS 4.2 lever.

No not expensive your less than most places.

 

Do you notice slower shifts with 4.2 lever. Im overthinking I know

No. The shifts are quick and crisp regardless of which lever is used.

@Dynamic Do you use box kits in you valve bodies or some secret squirrel stuff? Reason I ask is because a builder in my state had a YouTube video overview of a 48RE rebuild and I just saw a shelf full of TransGo shift kits in the back ground. Not saying it's makes their builds inferior or anything.

No, most of what I use is of my own design. I use my own separator plates (laser cut specifically for me), and the hydraulics and pressure control are of my own design as well. I do use an off-the-shelf manual valve, and the PR setup is similar in design to one of the "box kits", but most of it is my own design, and the calibrations certainly are my own.

@Dynamic so we tore it apart today looks like to blew a seal and got a little hot. Do you know what the stock TC and I put shaft looks like or what part numbers are on it? The TC we found in it looks aftermarket, the input shaft looks like a billet shaft and the flex plate is definitely aftermarket