Drove the truck over 100miles today, hasn’t done any kind of distance in awhile.  After about 30 miles, started to feel gravelly pedals, both brake and clutch felt weird, when pressed felt gravelly under my feet.  Braking seemed a little weak too and power steering more intermittent than normal.  At about mile 40 had to brake hard compared to normal braking and the truck pulled left...  not sure where to start my chase, any thoughts?

Chuck it up in a lathe, by the threads,  and reduce the thickness of the hex head that protrudes from the part.  For clearance purposes. I hope that makes sense. 

If you look at the JEGS picture that is  a thin headed bolt shown. 

Michael :- )

 

 

16 minutes ago, wil440 said:

I used to imports Mopar parts and cars/trucks into the UK, was the UK dealer for FBO Systems from Oregon for 10 years until the banking crash in 08

very little clearance on the back of the pump to other stuff If I remember right

hmmmm... there is nothing back there, I am able to stick my finger in that top hole, I think the lower one has the plastic plug maybe in it still, should be a fun mess to try and get that one in.  We will see how it goes.  Actually I think it is just the one on the top left..  I think that lower right gets a nipple for one of the return lines.

Edited July 3, 20195 yr by portlandareae28

think there is only one bolt holds the can on

there are 2 holes in the back of the reservoir where the lines all go into it.  which I believe is where the studs in that jegs image go into the reservoir.  those are the two holes, specifically the upper left one that I am trying to determine if they would leak fluid if nothing is in them.

1 minute ago, wil440 said:

think there is only one bolt holds the can on

What he said, and it is not in the center of the pump as someone else mentioned.  

 

Michael :- )

there are 3 holes with green on them in this image, the large one center bottom is where the pressure line to the Hydraboost goes in.  the one to the right of it has a plug in it in my truck (plastic plug that spins fairly easily) the UPPER LEFT one in my truck has nothing in it, and is the one I am really focused on at this point.  Trying to figure out if that could leak fluid.

 

Just checked my truck.... upper left is the bolt that holds the can on, can't believe Dodge used a 40 plus year old power steer pump

is the green stuff plastic caps ?

Edited July 3, 20195 yr by wil440

thats what we are saying.

 

The upper left hole should be filled with a bolt to keep the reservoir attached to the pump body.

 

In non-hydroboost vehicles the lower right one is also a bolt. (big center is the pressure and the return line goes on the tube.)

 

in hydro-boosted vehicles the lower right one should be filled with a special bolt with the other return line. (the steering sector and the hydro boost have separate returns to the reservoir)

 

HTH

Hag

 

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=mopar+power+steering+pump&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=8YJz2L-ocndOhM%3A%2Cvf-mxn9hm1r-AM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSmmPXgnDoaJzEnDesg-c8P36DWoQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjb8oa7xJnjAhUE_aQKHX4vAy8Q9QEwAXoECAgQBg#imgrc=8YJz2L-ocndOhM:

And for the record.  A thin Headed bolt.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-6184b?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_K7OTG3V36zRa9-d8PzCztCNTswvnysSr-s2NuQZTdMg-hsf8hKSQUaAkQnEALw_wcB

 

I can sleep well tonight.  Good luck with your Truck Power steering.  Got a little off track.

Michael :- )

I found the picture of what someone says is the back of a 99 power steering pump.

 

 

Cant confirm it, (it only has one return line, but I am stuck on the 01 and it has 2 return lines to the reservoir.)  but notice the upper left and lower right holes have bolts in them.

 

HTH

 

Hag

this is all great help!!  Thank you guys!! 

 

Wonder if there is an o-ring behind the "thin" headed bolt and the stud?

I just used some locktite and it seemed to seal.  It was clean and dry though.  There is no pressure per say Just atmospheric.

 

Michael :- )

Edited July 3, 20195 yr by int3man

and we all agree, some fluid could make its way out of these holes?  :-)

The old Volvo used this type of pump up to 1984 and the rear mounting bracket used those bolt holes.  I've had to reseal the pump reservoir due to leaks there.  There are O-rings that go between the pump and the reservoir housing that need to be replaced.  it's a very easy job to due once the pump is off the vehicle.   another time I had a pump leak because of a short hairline crack in the reservoir sheet metal at one of the bolt holes.   I think, it was about thirty years ago, I brazed that crack closed.  

 

                                                                  The kit is cheap, $9-$14, an can be found at most parts suppliers.

 

 

  

Here is the pressure relief valve with the screen.

 

So I got the bolts in today, we will see in the morning if they did the trick.  

Update...  I was getting a drip from somewhere near the steering box, but seems to have gone dry....  will keep posting as I progress

This is easy to work on...

 

 

Today I gotta install a power steering pump on a 2002 Ford 7.3L PowerStroke with 37 inch tires. The fluid is burnt and comes to a idle and the power is lost to both steering and brakes. He's to afraid to drive home to Boise, ID. He's camped out in Riggins, ID. 

 

 

Our system as long as the fluid is kept changed every 30k miles then the likely-hood of a system fault or leaks are usually keep at bay. Only 2 seals for the gearbox the input shaft and the pitman arm shaft. Watch the vacuum pump too some times can be miss leading.

 

so back to the BRAKES part of this thread......

 

Monday Morning (after towing my car on a car hauler 60 miles and an empty trailer back on Sunday) I hear a noise coming from drivers side brake.  Keep in mind its been 100* so generally driving with windows up and air conditioning and music on, so this noise that I first heard on Monday morning could have started on Sunday.  So, back to Monday morning, I pull the truck back into the driveway, run in and get the keys to the Ford Ranger (I KNOW I KNOW, I hate it when the Ford saves my *** too) and head to work.  Come home from work and start poking around behind the tire..  looks to be that part of the dust cover is broken/loose, I think phew, something simple, UNTIL, I saw the inside of the rotor that looks like Gravel or a grinding wheel was used instead of brake pads on it.  SO at bare minimum I need a rotor and set of pads.   I think those two pieces are pretty easy..  Now whether I go 3rd gen or not is not something that needs to be a part of this conversation except from a compatability stand point.  I have never rebuilt a caliper before, but I watched a few videos and read a few things and it doesn't appear to be that difficult..  Would you guys rebuild or go reman'd on calipers?  If rebuilt, is my recollection correct on the third gen that I can use a stock caliper and just need 3rd gen pads and caliper brackets to make the 3rd gen rotor work?  I am in NO rush on this project, I want to go at it methodically and take care of any and all maintenance that makes sense for anything else (even non brake related) that is easy when its torn apart.