Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender.  Dont want to break any more.  Any help correct way?

Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery.  Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way.  Plastic puzzle to me.  Little numbers 11184 on connector.  Do they need special tools... or what's the secret!

Thanks

 

 

                                 

That did the trick.  I'm either weak or those connectors are pretty strong, of course 1st time apart since I've owned it in 2005. Almost had to use plyiers.

 

Now what is best practice after I re do battery cables?   Die electric grease and then spray connector with something to keep water tight?

 

What do you find best to soldier with and what soldier to use?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Edited August 17, 20195 yr by 015point9
Added info

You can apply dielectric grease on the connections or you can redo the ground wire from the PCM to the passenger (right) side battery like I did below.

 

IBMobile

• ASE Certified Master Auto Technician
• 
• Board Of Directors
• 1,635
• 1,821 posts
• San Marcos, CA

• Report post
• (IP: 75.39.180.178)
•  

Posted May 28, 2018

I finally got around to cleaning up the ground wire splices for the PCM this week end.  It's not hard and took very little time to do. 

NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. 

 

You need:

2  10-12 gauge butt connectors 

2  1/4 heat shrink tube  2" long

rosin core solder 

140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch

roll of electrical tape

razer knife

wire cutters

wire striper

 

Remove air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in.

No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector has already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover.

Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM

 

Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off  the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. 

 

 

This is the connection with the cove off.  This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector.

 

 

Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering.

Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector, insert the wires into the connector and solder.  Let cool then cove with the heat shrink.  

 

 

At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires.  They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's were you'll find splice #S126 

There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used.  

 

 Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. 

 

When done it should look like this.

 

• 1
• 1

dripley and JAG1 reacted to this

• Quote
• Edit
• Options  

---

 

2000 2500 quadcab, lwb, 4.10 ls, auto, edge ez, manual boost controller, RV275 injectors, 4" s/s magnaflow, fuel boss pump, BHAF,cold air box, issapro: trans temp, boost, egt, fp on A pillar, mystery switch, wife riding shotgun.    

Many thanks

That's a good modification to do. W-T was amazed the factory could have done those grounds so wrong in the first place.

I use dielectric grease on multi connectors and some antioxidation stuff on single connections. I think that antioxidation grease is conductive, so you don'twant to use it on multi plug because it can short out.