Jump to content

Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

Posted

Its time for dash repair on my rust bucket. 2001 2500. LMC, Genos, Ebay, or Amazon? Whos fits best? Best made? Don't really care about color because I'll paint it. 

 I'm really looking at the fiberglass one from Amazon. Some say fits good, others not so good but glass seems better than plastic to me. Don't know how to add a link so pic will have to do.

 Thanks for any advice you can give.

Happy New Year everyone.

Screenshot_2020-01-01-10-18-48.png

  • Replies 40
  • Views 35.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    This was my temporary fix, still using it for a moment, got more cracks since but none of it has fallen in yet.  

  • After reading the reviews on Amazon for the  one shown I would not touch it. Even the 5 stars reviews, all 2 of them had issues. Seems the manufacture has tried to overcome having to pull the dash for

  • Gregturley
    Gregturley

    Mine has a piece of a  coke 24 pack holding up my carpet dash cover. I've lost 4"-6" chunks.

Posted Images

Featured Replies

Bought mine from dashskin.com. Lifetime warranty. First one showed up cracked, they sent a new one right away. 

 

Edit: looks like they don't offer a full dash replacement anymore, very happy with mine however

Edited by Bojon

  • Author

Wonder what they do about the lifetime warranty if they no longer sell what you bought? 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

I got the fiberglass one from Amazon. Looks pretty good but I'll see how it fits when the weather warms up. I'm going to make a gauge pod out of glass and glass in some bosses for screws for the vents. Going to hit the local yards and see if i can find a lower dash thats better than mine. I'd like to be able to do everything on the bench before i pull it apart.

  • Staff

How long does it take to pull the dash and replace the top along with the heater core and evap? Just curious, I'll need to do this at some point, my dash is cracking badly and have a couple pieces missing already. I would go ahead and do the HVAC service while I have it all out and accessable.

  • Author

By yourself if you've never done it 7-8 hours probably. It can be done in about 4 pretty easily if you're familiar with it. You do need a vacuum pump for the A/C recharge or take it to someone.

  • Staff

 I have a vacuum pump and gauges for the a/c. I will probably have a buddy help as well. I will try to not have the truck down any longer than needed as it is now my only truck. I am selling the other 2 GM's I have. Time to thin the heard in a sense.

I spent 2 or 3 days on mine. I had time to do it and just did not get in any hurry. Some beer breaks were taken also.

My son helped me reinstall the dash. And beings some of the screws for the dash have to be installed from the back having him was benefical. I also rebuilt the hvac box while itmwas out.

Edited by dripley

  • Author

If you're doing a dash top I'd pull steering column, pull dash completely out and do dash top on bench. Get new plastic nut inserts for it too. Need 4. Know it says storage compartment nut but it is what snaps into firewall for upper dash screws. I get them from the dealer we contract with for about $5 each.

Screenshot_2020-01-21-11-03-50.png

Edited by Gregturley

I did not remove mine completely the driverside was still hanging on the mounting bolt, so the screws on that side are fun to get to. It was the easiest for me since I was alone for the tear down. 

  • Staff

This is a project I will definitely be doing at some point. It may be a while but it will be on the list. I will try to have all the pieces and parts needed before tearing into the dash in an effort to make it a little quicker and smoother with good end results. 

  • Author

@Doubletrouble replace the a/c dryer while you have it apart. That should be the last part installed when doing the job. You dont want it open to the atmosphere any longer than necessary. Measure and add the correct amount and type of oil. 

 It is also a time to clean the box and refoam the doors. I used contact glue and foam i got local when i did my old trucks.

44 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

This is a project I will definitely be doing at some point. It may be a while but it will be on the list. I will try to have all the pieces and parts needed before tearing into the dash in an effort to make it a little quicker and smoother with good end results. 

It is good project especially if you plan to keep the truck for while. And the benefit to your eyes is priceless. Felt like I had a new truck again. Having the AC back was almost secondary.

 

And just to add the method @Gregturley describes is good if you have some help and would definitely make the dash pad install easier. There are 2 screws on the drivers side that are very tough to get to with the dash still in the truck, but not impossible. i have never pulled the steering column to know what time that adds to the job.

  • Author

I usually get the box installed as soon as possible then get the vacuum pump going while I hang a dash. By the time the dash and column are done its ran enough to charge. I'm not wasting time waiting for the vacuum.

I pull column because it makes it so i can easily roll the dash on the seats. I can then slide it out and onto saw horses by myself. 

@dripley Only adds a few bolts, connectors, and shift linkage. 30 minutes R&R total maybe but less to work around. DO NOT forget to lock the key so steering wheel doesn't spin and mess up the clock spring.

Edited by Gregturley

  • Staff
On 1/2/2020 at 4:07 PM, dripley said:

Now thats what 50 pound dash pad looks like. I smeared a bunch of silicone on the back of my dash bezel to hold it together. Worked pretty good but I was scared to to pull it off for anything. The top was very fragile.

I just repaired my dash bezel because It's  harder to get a wood grain bezel like mine and the top was like an old relic cracking apart. So with ABS pipe glue I glued leather to the underside and put all the pieces back together on the top. Spot putty and sanding got it fair to midland and then masked the underside and sprayed Raptor bedliner to reinforce everything underneath. Then masking the front you run a razor knife between the top and the front. It has a groove there seperating the front from the top to guide your razor knife perfectly. With the front all masked off and only the top showing, I put 4 coats of Raptor Bedliner out of their rattle can. It came out really cool and better than new and is strong. :thumb1:

31 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

Only adds a few bolts, connectors, and shift linkage. 30 minutes R&R total maybe but less to work around. DO NOT forget to lock the key so steering wheel doesn't spin and mess up the clock spring.

Edited 21 minutes ago by Gregturley

I would disagree with one thing. I have no shift linkage except for the stick sticking out of the floor. One less thing to do. All good to know though. Thanks

  • Author

Grab some topper tape to stick to the sides of the evap and heater core because your replacements probably will not come with any foam seals. Really helps with heat and a/c performance.

16 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

I just repaired my dash bezel because It's  harder to get a wood grain bezel like mine and the top was like an old relic cracking apart. So with ABS pipe glue I glued leather to the underside and put all the pieces back together on the top. Spot putty and sanding got it fair to midland and then masked the underside and sprayed Raptor bedliner to reinforce everything underneath. Then masking the front you run a razor knife between the top and the front. It has a groove there seperating the front from the top to guide your razor knife perfectly. With the front all masked off and only the top showing, I put 4 coats of Raptor Bedliner out of their rattle can. It came out really cool and better than new and is strong. :thumb1:

Next time I am down by the parts guy I found out of Charlotte I will see if he has a burl bezels and see what wants for one.

39 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

I just repaired my dash bezel because It's  harder to get a wood grain bezel like mine and the top was like an old relic cracking apart. So with ABS pipe glue I glued leather to the underside and put all the pieces back together on the top. Spot putty and sanding got it fair to midland and then masked the underside and sprayed Raptor bedliner to reinforce everything underneath. Then masking the front you run a razor knife between the top and the front. It has a groove there seperating the front from the top to guide your razor knife perfectly. With the front all masked off and only the top showing, I put 4 coats of Raptor Bedliner out of their rattle can. It came out really cool and better than new and is strong. :thumb1:

Got any photos?

  • Staff
6 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Got any photos?

I will do that. Give me a few days as I've had so little time I'm finally able to start getting my things caught up :drool: Finally some time off :thumb1:

  • Author

All the dashs from 98.5 to 02 are the same correct? I'm talking about the main body of the dash and the metal frame and ducts.

Edited by Gregturley

Did This Forum Post Help You?

Show the author some love by liking their post!

Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.