My truck for the last few weeks has been making an awful squeaking or siren sound from what seems like the transmission. Does not do it while I’m stopped or stopped in gear revving, it also seems like it gets quieter when I smash on the brakes? Any help would be appreciated!!!

 

Also it seems to do it more once truck it up to good operating temp. 

Edited January 6, 20205 yr by ColoradoColt

Manual or auto trans?

20 minutes ago, dripley said:

Manual or auto trans?

 

Automatic 

Water pump 

16 minutes ago, Evan said:

Water pump 

Even tho it only makes the sound while moving? 

That is a strange noise but my old ears can barely pick it up.

I had my buddy drive while I stood on the bed. I think I can hear it coming from between the cab and bed.

Check your rear end fluid. If you get your finger in the fluid see what color it is. If cant touch it with your finger you might have problem. Just speculating. Easy to check.

14 minutes ago, dripley said:

Check your rear end fluid. If you get your finger in the fluid see what color it is. If cant touch it with your finger you might have problem. Just speculating. Easy to check.

 

I actually did that awhile back, front was over a quart low. Rear was full but looks like muddy water. 

Would that cause a noise that seems to change with rpm?

Wheel rpm but not engine rpm. If the fluid is like muddy water you do need to change it if its not the problem it will be.

 

What about if the transmission was making the noise, would it be engine or tire rpm that Would be changing the sound?

Actually I just drove to the auto parts store  . While it’s squealing, if I let off throttle noise stops. Also it seems to make the noise a lot less when temps are under about 40°

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by ColoradoColt

I would change the rear end fluid and see whats in that fluid. Dont just pump it out pull the cover and have a good look in there. 

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by dripley

6 minutes ago, dripley said:

I would change the rear end fluid and see whats in that fluid. Dont just pump it out pull the cover and have a good look in there. 

 

Okay thanks for the help. I’ll do that and give any updates as I go

Make sure the truck will roll easy in neutral to make sure brakes aren't stuck with a bad caliper. You can also check by feeling for excess heat at the center of each wheel after a run. That will tell you which one. It happens often if you don't change the brake fluid every two years because water builds in the bottom of the caliper and pistons.

 

I had a squeal that was engine related. I could not tell if it was from the water pump or the idler pulley and since I travel long distance I solved the problem by replacing both.

 

In your case if you get to a large parking area you could shut the engine down while rolling to see if it goes away. And when its rolling quietly you might listen with the window down to see if the brake pedal changes the sound any.

 

Another thought I have is the carrier Bearing.

 

Also Dripley is good man for saying rear differential fluid change by opening up to look for excess metal chips and wear. My front and rear diff. fluids were all up to correct levels, but were very dark. After changing them my mileage went up noticeably. It's a good thing to do and not neglect it like I did. I went to a hundred thousand before servicing and the gears have thin film of black sludge starting to coat everything. I cleaned the bottom residual oil at the bottom with the covers off too.

I think it's better to use the gaskets with a thin film of rtv on both sides. Without the gasket I tried just the RTV, but it leaked. So I changed both 2nd gens, 4 differentials  in all with gaskets and not having one leak. Many guys use no gasket and are good. I was not good at that.

 

You will need the pump that fits on the gear oil bottle to pump it in there and you torque the bolts to 18 ft pounds. Torque in a star pattern to 6 then to 12 then to the 18 ft. lbs.

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by JAG1

Thats the fluid that came out, that’s not normal right? Too dark? 

 

 60Lube locker dana 60 gasket.  I say 60 because they may not list it for the70. 60 70 have same cover.

 

Upgrade gasket and cover together.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D6070COV.html

 

Fluid looks normal to me 

 

Pinion nuts tight?

 

Ujoints at CV joint on front driveline?

Bent dust shields rubbing rotor

Any ujoint

Front unit bearings. 

 

Does noise persist rolling in neautral 

Edited January 6, 20205 yr by JAG1

9 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Make sure the truck will roll easy in neutral to make sure brakes aren't stuck with a bad caliper. You can also check by feeling for excess heat at the center of each wheel after a run. That will tell you which one. It happens often if you don't change the brake fluid every two years because water builds in the bottom of the caliper and pistons.

 

I had a squeal that was engine related. I could not tell if it was from the water pump or the idler pulley and since I travel long distance I solved the problem by replacing both.

 

In your case if you get to a large parking area you could shut the engine down while rolling to see if it goes away. And when its rolling quietly you might listen with the window down to see if the brake pedal changes the sound any.

 

Another thought I have is the carrier Bearing.

 

Also Dripley is good man for saying rear differential fluid change by opening up to look for excess metal chips and wear. My front and rear diff. fluids were all up to correct levels, but were very dark. After changing them my mileage went up noticeably. It's a good thing to do and not neglect it like I did. I went to a hundred thousand before servicing and the gears have thin film of black sludge starting to coat everything. I cleaned the bottom residual oil at the bottom with the covers off too.

I think it's better to use the gaskets with a thin film of rtv on both sides. Without the gasket I tried just the RTV, but it leaked. So I changed both 2nd gens, 4 differentials  in all with gaskets and not having one leak. Many guys use no gasket and are good. I was not good at that.

 

You will need the pump that fits on the gear oil bottle to pump it in there and you torque the bolts to 18 ft pounds. Torque in a star pattern to 6 then to 12 then to the 18 ft. lbs.

 

Noise is not there in neutral, while coasting under like 10 or so. When I put it into neutral while going like 45 it will go away for a second or two then come back. 

I also got it warm so it was screaming at me, then took of the belt and drove around the block. Still made the noise so I know it’s not any pulleys. Sound keeps getting worse everyday and i need my truck for work! Hopefully I can figure this out soon....

Edited January 5, 20205 yr by ColoradoColt

That is weird. Sounds like you should..... but very dangerous, get it up on a rack start it up, drop it in gear and give it a rev see what things do with a mechanic standing back and watching/ listening.

1 hour ago, Evan said:

 60Lube locker dana 60 gasket.  I say 60 because they may not list it for the70. 60 70 have same cover.

 

Upgrade gasket and cover together.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D6070COV.html

 

Fluid looks normal to me 

 

Pinion nuts tight?

 

Ujoints at CV joint on front driveline?

Bent dust shields rubbing rotor

Any ujoint

Front unit bearings. 

 

Does noise persist rolling in neautral 

 

 

Yes there is still noise while in neutral, but only while coasting over 10 mph or so. 

Miya definitely rpm related. But I can’t tell if it makes the noise when rpm goes up...or when the boost starts building. 

2 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

That is weird. Sounds like you should..... but very dangerous, get it up on a rack start it up, drop it in gear and give it a rev see what things do with a mechanic standing back and watching/ listening.

 

I will do that tonight. If it only makes noise while under load will that tell me anything? 

I feel like I’m all over the place trying to figure this out. So the carrier bearing. That’s the one in between the overdrive housing and rear diff? In the middle of the drive shaft?  Would that make that type of noise? I’m not sure if that’s what I’m looking at or what it’s for, but when I grab the rear driveshaft it’s tight if I try to spin left or right, but up or down it seems pretty wobbly. Is that normal?

Put it in 4low  see if the noise stays the same with speed. Or if it stays at the same rpm.

In 3rd gear doing 35 40

 

Then rpm matched in 4low but youl be going slower.  

 

These will kinda tell you if its motor tranny noise or if its behind the transfercase.  Not sure Im explaining this correctly 

 

To me its sounds like a driveline moving speed type noise 

I doubt it's to terribly dangerous.  And will soon show you what needs fixed if you dont find it first.

Keep on driving her shel let you know. 

 

 

 

I cant hear anything weird in your vid.

Edited January 6, 20205 yr by Evan

It is supposed to not move in any direction, mine are tight all ways. Sounds like you have some dry U joints

 

Evan, I can hear it. It even changes a few notes near the end of the Vid. I've never heard anything like it. worn Ujoints sometimes give vibration in the seat not a high note squeal so I'm not sure. Be care ful going near spinning wheels I worry about folks getting hurt.

Edited January 6, 20205 yr by JAG1