For Sale - 2006 Dodge Ram 2500- Flatbed for long box bed Winch bumper Flat Bed for Long Box 3rd generation Cummins Tootlbox are included with key I have a flatbed for 3rd Generation dodge Cummins. This flatbed comes with a gooseneck hitch already in the bed. The winch bumper is part of the set. Tootlbox have a key to lock and unlock all box a single key. There is rust starting and electrical will have to be sorted out on your own.
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Price: $1,000.00
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Location: New Meadows, Idaho
Hi Guys.. new here, but have been reading as a guest for a while. I’m always amazed at how knowledgable a lot of you guys are and all the helpful information available.
Here’s my situation, and I’ll try to remember a much detail as I can and in the proper sequence. Last year my truck was sitting for about 7-8 months without use. I was helping one of my parents out of town and wasn’t able to do much else. So when I got home, my truck batteries were totally dead. These were new batteries, maybe 4 months old prior to leaving. I couldn’t get them to take a charge. Took them in, load tested, replaced. Then the truck’s EVS II system wouldn’t disarm and I think the door locks weren’t functioning right either. So I removed the entire EVS from the truck. Truck still wouldn’t start and the lift pump sounded erratic like it wouldn’t come on sometimes and/or run after bumping starter, then other times it seemed to be working fine. It was old so anyway so I replaced it with an AirDog, which seems to be running like it should, fuel pressure gauge shows good pressure. I cracked the inlet at the VP44 and have fuel there. Cracked 1,3,5 and no fuel. When I did the ignition cycle for odometer codes I got codes I can’t find anywhere: 920, 921, 999. Nobody seems to have heard of them. So I went to get a scan tool and I get code 1389 and sometimes 1692. I clear them and next time I try to start I get the 1389 for sure but not always 1692. Once I got 1689 and 1693 but I think (wonder) if some of those could have been caused by pulling the fuel system relay and switching it with another relay. The 1389 is ASD relay voltage. I swapped that relay with the wiper relay but no difference. Still sets code and no start. The other thing I noticed prior to the truck being in storage was that the voltmeter was usually not up at 14 but on the upside of the middle mark. The alternator and batteries were replaced in 2013 when my brother had the truck for a couple years. That was a Napa unit. (Batteries were replaced again in December 2018 as mentioned above).
So some questions..
1. Have you ever heard of a truck not in use, going off the deep end like this? I tend to not think the injection pump is involved because it had no symptoms prior to storage. Well, it did have one issue developing with cranking and not starting which was after sitting at work for the day, I would go to start and it would crank and usually not start until the second try which i attributed to probably a loss of prime somewhere. I had not yet tracked that down. Although when changing the lift pump, the inlet side was not super tight but there was no fuel leak.. anyway I believe this previous cranking issue possibly unrelated..
2. Is the EVS II possibly responsible in any way now that it’s removed? In other words, could the PCM know that the entire system was removed and somehow be interfering in the truck starting? I assumed once the EVS was removed from harnesses and things put back to stock connections, it would be out of the loop entirely.
3. What could draw those batteries down and ruin them like that with the truck not being active? I know it’s possible under normal circumstances for batteries to discharge over this much time without a trickle charger, but something pulled them down and ruined both of them. I checked all the grounds i could find and they’re all tight. Some have light surface rust from being 20 years old and the one by the power steering pump is caked in oil/dirt but all are tight. I have during this time put in a fuse on the blue wire pin 25 out of pcm harness, and i will probably do the W-T ground mod if I can find a video and/or follow a good set of instructions on it.
Usually it seems problems show up when a truck is in use however this one is strange in that, it just developed while sitting and prior to that it ran perfectly with the exception of the loss of prime issue if that’s what it was.
I have not used jumpers on the injection pump yet to see if the truck will start that way. I assumed I’d probably get fuel at the cracked injector lines just from the lift pump pressure, but I must be wrong on that. I’m also assuming that the 1389 code might prevent a start even if the injection pump is direct wired with jumpers. The wires look okay between the PDC and PCM from what I can tell without tearing conduit and tape apart everywhere, and the relay switch didn’t work so I’m thinking maybe PCM is whacked..but again, why would that spontaneously happen during a period of inactivity?
4. Final question assuming PCM is bad. The consensus here seems to be that “auto computer specialists” has been used by many and is trusted with satisfied customers. I am pretty uneasy about sending my PCM in, there seem to be a lot of shady companies, many have BBB complaints at some point, and it’s one of those things where you have to rely on someone’s honesty and integrity and trust them. They could say anything and you wouldn’t know, send pictures of other modules, whatever.. this day and age it seems increasingly difficult to find that integrity and honesty out there. The thread on this site regarding PCM repair companies looks like it hasn’t been updated in a while, but Auto Computer Specialists had the most use at the time.
I’ll leave it there for now as I’m sure this is already a novel.. Thanks in advance and apologies for the long-ish read. If I forgot something I will add it in subsequent posting.