Switch could be bad but it hasnt given me any troubles before. Checked fuses but all looked good, guess one could be bad anyway. Am I missing something on getting the gauge back lights working? Also installing gauges and would want dimmable option, I have only have positive and negative lead wires. I also dont remember wiring and installing gauge pods to be so difficult, I am having a time getting everything sorted out and routed.

 

Edit: tabs on a pillar broke so time to epoxy... before they broke still had some wobble to the whole thing...

Edited August 15, 20204 yr by Stanley

12 hours ago, Stanley said:

installing gauges and would want dimmable option,

Try positive wire to tan wire at headlight switch.

I've got a couple of tan wires I'll have to probe and see if I can get any variable resistance. 

I guess maybe I'll recheck bulbs in the gauge cluster, if not that maybe that switch. Its bugging me everything works except back lights...

You can splice into the tan wire (1) behind the light rheostat for unfused power to gauge lights or any orange wire (2) for fused protection.   Those wires are 18 and 22 gauge.

 

use an add a circuit to fuse 5 in the junction block (fuse panel on side of instrument panel)  This one carries the dimmed voltage to the cluster light bulbs. 

 

This way there is no cutting of the original wiring that will bite you in the behind later.

 

 

HTH

Hag