Could I ask a huge favor from someone. I would like a picture of the inside of the gear case and where all the bolts are without the cam and pump gear in the way. My oil leak is on the rear side of the gear case and running down to the corner of the pan and blowing back. I'm looking at options to tighten all the bolts and see though. Or loosening all the bolts and separate a little and get a small bead of silicone behind the edge. Either way it leaking engine oil pretty good in 15 miles its got oil splattered all the way to the transfer case.  

Ok... Pull the gear case front off being I want to check the bolt along the block edge to tighten. Still can't see all them but the top on for the KDP pin. 

 

But... I might of dove in too quick. Crawled back under and trying to source out where the oil is leaking from. Reached up with a 15mm wrench to pull the vacuum pump bolt and found it loose. Since I'm here I'll re-do my vacuum pump seal and crank seal.

Keep us posted on the root cause of the leak once you verify. 

 Glad ya caught it before it was to serious.

Serious enough to blow just about 2 quarts in just a week of driving after my oil change. 

 

Crank tip has the standard dust seal groove in the tip. I'm not worried much. When I install the new crank seal I just move inward a bit more. Lot of room. I've had a slow weeping leak for quite some time so this will be nice to get fixed. I want to snug up the gear case on the block side. If I can get those Allen screw snugged up will be awesome. 

 

I even checked the timing of the gears. Yup. All in time yet. 

 

Four bolts... 3 are behind the cam gear. 

 

Edited October 12, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

As a literal band aid fix, hose it off with brake clean then run a bead of rtv. That's what I had to do to my tappet cover that is apparently bent or something, seeing as my brand new gasket leaks. 

 

But, yes, 4 bolts in the case with several that hold the cover on acting to hold the case as well. If you pull the front off, may as well check the seals of the little timing pin that pops into the back of the cam. As much as I love the factory gaskets, I also ran thin layer of RTV on the new gaskets, little piece of mind. Can use the anaerobic sealant too if the rtv layer is too think for your taste.

 

It really isn't that much additional effort to pull the cam as well, even if it is just enough to get the bolts snugged. The dowel trick to hold the tappets works well. 

Actually I think I got it. 

 

Between the front cover might of been weeping around the edge. Then the vacuum pump bolts were totally loose on the bottom. The only bad thing that happened I destroyed the installing sleeve on my front crank seal. Kept trying and trying till I split the install sleeve. Bought a second crank seal got it in the front cover no problem. Bolted down carefully pulled the sleeve out. Then re-installed the sleeve in the other new seal. Now I've got an extra seal again.

 

As for the other bolts in the gear case you can seethe top most but nearly insane to try to spot the other 3 Allen bolts under the can gear.

 

I need to power wash it down again and see what is leaking again. Next one is to figure out power steering fluid leak being I've been adding fluid to the system. Last time I was in Boise and steering and brake performance dropped. Sure enough the fluid was low. With all the other mess leaking above this made it impossible to tell.  As for the steering box it might be the output shaft seal again. If so Ryan at Blue Top agreed to rebuild that box for free being I've not had good luck with it. Not saying anything bad about Blue Top Steering great guy and stand behind his product.

Edited October 15, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

A few drops of the uv leak detect die in the oil will tell you all kinds of things. It's the only way we found leaks on the the equipment once they get all grimy with a half inch layer of sludge built up everywhere because hourly construction employees.

 

I once had PS hoses leak along the entire length of the hose through at least 30 or more pinholes. I'm still not done degreasing the entire underside of the truck.

 

Edited October 15, 20204 yr by That Guy

How in the world did you get so many tiny holes in a p/s line @That Guy???

 Just curious

4 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

How in the world did you get so many tiny holes in a p/s line @That Guy???

 Just curious

 

I get what he's talking about like some times you'll see little depressions in the rubber outer jacket and then some how the inner jacket splits and the oil would weep from the depressions of the outer jacket. I've not seen that but I see how it would be possible.

 

As for my oil leaks so far a couple of running around day here doing typical things going to work, going to the dump, etc. So far not leaking. I'm going to head to Lewiston for grocery shopping and restock for the month. I'm going to pick up a gallon of Zep Degreaser concentrate. Then I'll spray it directly to the engine bottom and clean this mess up with the power washer. Just be aware the Zep degreaser is an acid so don't leave on aluminum for long periods. I'm pretty sure Home Depot has there own brand of it too.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

The purple stuff is my preferred style. The sodium hydroxide in it dissolves the lipids in skin, makes it feel slick like bleach. But it does clean grease and oil up very well, particularly when warm. I like to use a spray bottle that has a foam setting, seems to stick to vertical surfaces better.

 

6 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

How in the world did you get so many tiny holes in a p/s line @That Guy???

 Just curious

 

Old age? I really have no idea how that works, but Mikes description seems accurate. 

 I need to purchase a lot of degreaser. I want to clean up my Cummins (I think it's mostly from the oem crankcase vent) and I also have a gleaner combine that needs a good cleaning so I can pinpoint any leaks.