Injection Pump Failure. Time to do some work to my truck. I'm just posting up to ask for recomendations in Fuel Pressure Gauges, and Aftermarket Lift Pump improvements. I'm hoping to make the repair in my home garage, so the easier to install options would be a plus. I see many writeups on the job, but any tips would also be welcomed. At this time I am leaning towards an airdog 100 lift pump. Thanks in advance for any information. Dave

I really like my di pricol fp gauge but they are hard to find right now so I would look at isspro. I run a mechanical with a needle valve so there is fuel running to the gauge but total with gauge, tubing, pod and napa wh6820 needle valve it was less than $125. I dont think you can go wrong with either airdog or fass but I think I will go with a mechanical settup next time, something like a fuel boss or maybe a diy settup.

Here is what I was talking about size wise... Then my Airdog 150 under the truck...

I really like my di pricol fp gauge but they are hard to find right now so I would look at isspro. I run a mechanical with a needle valve so there is fuel running to the gauge but total with gauge, tubing, pod and napa wh6820 needle valve it was less than $125. I dont think you can go wrong with either airdog or fass but I think I will go with a mechanical settup next time, something like a fuel boss or maybe a diy settup.

I've got the Fuel boss, been running for over two years now and lovin it

What's your opinions about going with one of the "Hot Rod" vp44s over the stock vp44? Is that a more reliable/less reliable way to get power then chips? It seems like you get more options with a chip. Will one help an engine run cooler then the other or is it pretty much the same?

What's your opinions about going with one of the "Hot Rod" vp44s over the stock vp44?

Personally I don't think the HR VP44 is worth the extra money for only a extra ~40 HP. They don't last any longer than stock.

Is that a more reliable/less reliable way to get power then chips?

Anything that taps the VP44 is going to given you the most power for your buck. Programmers and untapped boxes only will produce a max of 60 HP roughly.

It seems like you get more options with a chip. Will one help an engine run cooler then the other or is it pretty much the same?

Cooler is a matter of your foot... Like my Edge Comp on 5x5 and my cruise set at 55 MPH I'm barely pulling 500-550*F EGTs. But stomp my foot into the throttle and I can see 1,400*F rather easy...

Changed my VP44, and lift pump last weekend. I went with a Fass 100. It's working great once again. Thanks to everyone for your feedback!

Dave

--- Update to the previous post...

I'm planning to do some tunning to the top of the engine this weekend, time it all up. What's your opinions on changing the injectors to gain power. I don't have any chip work done yet, just air intake, and exaust. Is it smarter to get into chips, or do the injectors for a bump in power?

Dave

I prefer the chips (enhancement boxes) over injectors... Reason being is since you Utah you might see icy roads and such down there. If so then when road conditions get poor you can use a enhancement box to de-tune the engine to gain control of the moment where just injectors you gain the power but ZERO control over it except with your foot. So like a buddy up here in Idaho has a 92 Cummins 1 Ton all tuned up but gets to park it every winter because it just to wild to drive on icy roads... So consider you weather conditions and power requirements too... Then on the flip side of all this injectors will increase your fuel flow but does absolutely nothing for injection timing. So if you looking for MPG's or HP/TQ you going to need timing more so.

Thanks again. I need to drive/tow in Wintertime so I see the advantage of being able to de tune. Plus it's easy to see where that would be an advantage anyways without the weather concern. Reckon I need to educate myself on boxes. Fun stuff.

I prefer the chips (enhancement boxes) over injectors... Reason being is since you Utah you might see icy roads and such down there. If so then when road conditions get poor you can use a enhancement box to de-tune the engine to gain control of the moment where just injectors you gain the power but ZERO control over it except with your foot. So like a buddy up here in Idaho has a 92 Cummins 1 Ton all tuned up but gets to park it every winter because it just to wild to drive on icy roads... So consider you weather conditions and power requirements too... Then on the flip side of all this injectors will increase your fuel flow but does absolutely nothing for injection timing. So if you looking for MPG's or HP/TQ you going to need timing more so.

man mopar is ...thank you for that infomative reply..

Thanks again. I need to drive/tow in Wintertime so I see the advantage of being able to de tune. Plus it's easy to see where that would be an advantage anyways without the weather concern. Reckon I need to educate myself on boxes. Fun stuff.

OK quick lesson in Enhancement boxes (Edge Products)

First off the levels and sublevels...

Main level

1. 40 Hp

2. 60 Hp

3. 80 Hp

4. 100 Hp

5. 120 Hp

Now the main level is how much fuel and timing is given at WOT operation. This would be consider the maximum fuel flow for the injection pump and timing considerations for this power level. It a P7100 pump this is how far forward you slid the plate. Higher the levle more forward the plate.

Sub levels - Defueled Modes - In a P7100 this would be like tightening the AFC starwheel more causing the pump to fuelk later in the boost level.

1. 33% of stock fuel and timing till 20 PSI of boost

2. 50% of stock fuel and timing till 15 PSI of boost

3. 67% of stock fuel and timing till 10 PSI of boost

Sub Levels - Power Modes - In a P7100 this would be loosening the AFC starwheel more to allow the pump to fuel more earlier in the boost pressure.

4. Some extra fuel and timing given at 0 PSI of boost

5. Full fuel and timing are given at 0 PSI of boost

So now here comes how fast you get your fuel and timing compared to boost pressure. So now the 1-3 sublevels were designed to control smoke from very large injectors. 4-5 are power modes that give more fuel and timing earlier in the boost.

Now for MPG game you want to run a ehancement box on it highest level possible and drive with a light foot. Keeping you boost below 5 PSI and pyrometer under 600*F you get 20+ MPG everytime. Reason for this is the fact on 5x5 of a Edge Juice or Comp the box is going to give the most timing and fuel at the lowest boost level. This is good but remember your controlling the fuel with your right foot. so if you foot is light you MPG stay high.

Now for slick conditions I might go as extreme at setting 1x1 which is so doggy and unresponsive that you have a very tough time getting the tires to break even if you trying to do burn out on ice. So look at the setting the 1x1 so you got a total of 40 Hp over the stock 235 Hp but that not given till you get to 20 PSI of boost but start at 0 PSI your only going to get 33% of stock fuel to ramp up to 20 PSI and then and only then the enhanced fuel and timing kick in...

So like now towing heavy like firewood season for me I'll run with the trailer empty and use 5x5 but once I'm loaded and hauling back I'll use 3x3. This keeps my EGTs in check by reducing the total fuel and timing slighly (80 Hp) and not allowing the use of it till 10 PSI of boost. So basically I'm about stock fuel cruising at 55 MPH but now hit a hill or mild grade then the boost climb past the 10 PSI now the fuel and timing are added back to the signal and the boost of power to pull over the hill. But there is a down side of this. Now during the time I'm cruise with 3x3 and only pulling maybe 5-7 PSI off boost the 67% of stock fuel is my fuel limt and the timing is degraded so you MPG's will be less than typical.

This should help you...

How does adding say 100HP injectors to the box affect things?

Everything has a effect... So adding 100 HP injectors will add to the 120 HP ability of the enhancement box (in theory).