I have searched and found nothing on the Hy35 turbo. I had my truck at a friends shop last week for an alignment, while test driving I asked him to run with the scanner on, he first ran with the edge comp on and then with it off. the boost pressure at idle was reading 10-11 psi in both scenarios then went up to 28-29 psi in both scenarios. I was wondering if this is normal or if there is any way to test the actuator on these turbos. the line b/t the housing and the actuator is steel, not rubber. I have had the rod b/t the actuator and the wastegate off and the wastegate moved freely. Thanks in advance, Luke

The Dodge ECM's have a offset voltage so it mis-reports the boost pressure. Like mine shows 28.6 PSIa on my ScanGauge II so I know that is the case...

As for testing I would suggest you use a mechanical gauge you can hook it up here...

HY35 can get at least 30 PSI of boost with a boost fooler and a j-hook present but without that the wastegate will open at about 18 PSI and the ECM will trip the check engine light and trip a P0234 error saying "Boost exceeded maximum limits". Then the engine defuels heavy.

The Dodge ECM's have a offset voltage so it mis-reports the boost pressure. Like mine shows 28.6 PSIa on my ScanGauge II so I know that is the case...

As for testing I would suggest you use a mechanical gauge you can hook it up here...

So those pressure readings do seem fairly normal then? Is that mechanical gauge hooked up to the map sensor? It looks as if the sesor is removed.

Another pic...

Actually the only way to see the MAP sensor pressure correctly is with a Edge Juice/Quadzilla Adrenaline modules... Or... SnapOn OBD II scanner... Or... Dodge's DRBII tool.

That why I suggested the mechanical gauge because that is the cheapest way to see boost for about $30-$40 bucks.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm USeful info here

Another pic...

Actually the only way to see the MAP sensor pressure correctly is with a Edge Juice/Quadzilla Adrenaline modules... Or... SnapOn OBD II scanner... Or... Dodge's DRBII tool.

That why I suggested the mechanical gauge because that is the cheapest way to see boost for about $30-$40 bucks.

Hello All.

Have a 2001 2500 w/5.9 Automatic Trans, HY35 Turbo. Everything is just stock, but I would kind of like to know whats going on with my engine while I'm driving down the road. Was checking out gauges on the site I've linked below. They have a three gauge cluster which replaces my drivers side corner post trim that seems like it might work for me. The company's name is "GlowShift". They also have lots of options on what three gauges to choose from.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/00-05-dodge-neon-and-srt-4-custom-gauge-package.aspx

Does anybody know anything about this company, their product, and any recomendations on what three gauges I should put together should I decide to go this way? I was kind of leaning towards fuel pressure, boost, and EGT. Sugestions are more than welcome!

Thanks!

Most people consider Gowshift a low quality company for gauges. But I think most of that is caused by improper installation of the gauges and senders.

I put the glowshift triple pillar pod set up in my truck and have no complaints. It was $199 for everything. Boost EGT and trans temp. It's been on for 3 months so far. I like switching the color to red at night as it is the least distracting to the eye. I put a seperate fuel psi gauge under the dash.

I have one of glowshifts 3in1 gauges and haven't had any trouble with it in the two or so years that I've had it.Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

I had a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. It did not last long due to the fact I installed it without any isolation for the sender. The pulses from the VP will destroy the sender or the gauge(if mechanical) in short order without isolation. I currently use an Isspro mechanical with a needle valve in line for issolation. I believe the GS would have held up better had I done this originally. The 3 gauge pod is as cheap as you will find anywhere and looks as good as the Banks 2 gauge pod I bought many years ago. I have to agree with Mike on installation being the biggest problem. Even expensive gauges wont last if installed badly.

I had a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. It did not last long due to the fact I installed it without any isolation for the sender. The pulses from the VP will destroy the sender or the gauge(if mechanical) in short order without isolation. I currently use an Isspro mechanical with a needle valve in line for issolation. I believe the GS would have held up better had I done this originally. The 3 gauge pod is as cheap as you will find anywhere and looks as good as the Banks 2 gauge pod I bought many years ago. I have to agree with Mike on installation being the biggest problem. Even expensive gauges wont last if installed badly.

@ dripley/ was your GS fuel guage for VP or was it for lift pump pressure? Was just wondering about what you are saying about an isolator. My sender will be going between the stock 12 Volt lift pump and the VP. I will be using a 30 PSI gauge to read lift pump output preassure. Will I need an isolator for my setup? Thanks to everyone who responded. I'm feeling better about the GlowShift!

@ dripley/ was your GS fuel guage for VP or was it for lift pump pressure? Was just wondering about what you are saying about an isolator. My sender will be going between the stock 12 Volt lift pump and the VP. I will be using a 30 PSI gauge to read lift pump output preassure. Will I need an isolator for my setup?

Thanks to everyone who responded. I'm feeling better about the GlowShift!

No. But you will need a needle valve and set it up properly or you will eat the sender anyways.

@ dripley/ was your GS fuel guage for VP or was it for lift pump pressure? Was just wondering about what you are saying about an isolator. My sender will be going between the stock 12 Volt lift pump and the VP. I will be using a 30 PSI gauge to read lift pump output preassure. Will I need an isolator for my setup? Thanks to everyone who responded. I'm feeling better about the GlowShift!

Mine is reading pressure from the lift pump. The VP will send pulses back into the fuel line and beat the sender or the gauge to death. Mine is set up like this. I installed it in the fuel line between the fuel canister and the vp. The needle valve is barely open, just enough to get a pressure reading and restrict the pulses. You can do this with a mechanical gauge or thru a sender to an elctronic gauge. I personally like the mechanical gauge better.

I'm also installed in the same place...

Mine is reading pressure from the lift pump. The VP will send pulses back into the fuel line and beat the sender or the gauge to death. Mine is set up like this[ATTACH=CONFIG]4674[/ATTACH]. I installed it in the fuel line between the fuel canister and the vp. The needle valve is barely open, just enough to get a pressure reading and restrict the pulses. You can do this with a mechanical gauge or thru a sender to an elctronic gauge. I personally like the mechanical gauge better. [ATTACH=CONFIG]4674[/ATTACH]

Thanks guys! I will install mine the same way and placew also. Again much thanks!

Placement should be as far from the VP44 as possible. But still forward of the last filter.

I might have placed mine further back except I kept the old fuel canister in the fuel system.