I am wondering if going up on pump stretch 2K ish and Can Bus % will create that low end response. I guess I can also make wire tap minimum add greater too? If I actually download load a Smarty tune will the truck act poorly even with the Adrenaline on level 0?

 

 Thanks 

Set your canbus fuel sliders to 150% across the board and then go try it on level 3.

 

Lvl 0 is always stock.

Ok from zero to 30plus right ? Not going up in percentages?  Seems logical since So3 doesn’t wire tap. Level 3 on a 10 scale right?
 

Thanks!

If you want a catch 9 s03 tune set all sliders to 150%    

catcher 7 go from 135% to %150 in 5% bumps

Catcher 5 %125 to 150% in %5 bumps

 

lvl 3 is no wiretap

Awesome!! Thanks for your help!

One of the few reasons I've never been a big Smarty fan being that their tune is basically starting the CanBus fuel way above 100% which a good clean tune should not start that high. 

 

I might start out lower but once I meet my power point which is set for 15 PSI. This is where my CanBus and wiretap meet together and ramp up together its a rather wicked power. 

 

80% to 100% to 5 PSI

100% from 5 PSI to 15 PSI Stock ECM fuel

100% to 150% from 15 PSI up to +30 PSI.

 

Then I set the Wire tap to start at 15 PSI and run all the way to 40 PSI.

 

The other half is make sure your 1,500 RPM band starts at 13 degree. Then you want a good health drop in timing. It will spool very rapid. More retard the quicker to spool this is due to putting more of the expanding gases in the exhaust manifold.

 

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

One of the few reasons I've never been a big Smarty fan being that their tune is basically starting the CanBus fuel way above 100% which a good clean tune should not start that high. 

 

I might start out lower but once I meet my power point which is set for 15 PSI. This is where my CanBus and wiretap meet together and ramp up together its a rather wicked power. 

 

80% to 100% to 5 PSI

100% from 5 PSI to 15 PSI Stock ECM fuel

100% to 150% from 15 PSI up to +30 PSI.

 

Then I set the Wire tap to start at 15 PSI and run all the way to 40 PSI.

 

The other half is make sure your 1,500 RPM band starts at 13 degree. Then you want a good health drop in timing. It will spool very rapid. More retard the quicker to spool this is due to putting more of the expanding gases in the exhaust manifold.

 

 

This is the proper answer,  FYI, you should be setting your canbus fueling % only as high as needed to make your happy with your take off performance when going to %100 throttle. 

 

What I posted will pretty much shovel all your fueling between 0 and %25 throttle input simlar to what the S03 does.  This is not preferred.

Ok nice ! I was starting timing at 15 then 18/ 21/ 24/ 26 max 28 or 29. Learning a lot. Thanks a million for the help dialing her in. 

Timing to too advanced.... 

 

1500 - 13

2000 - 17

2500 - 21

3000 - 25

 

MAX is not what you think it is. You can control the maximum cruise timing with max. Like I typically set it down a bit lower to kick the cruise timing out by about 2,000 to 2,500 RPM so if you reduce that you can force cruise timing to cancel and jump back into the performance timing.

 

This is a good launch timing. 13 degrees with take another retard when the low boost timing rolls in it could pull down to about 10 degree on a heavy pedal. Retard pushes more fire out towards the turbine and spools the turbo up easy. Starting at 15 degrees there isn't enough retard to spool so it now launches with low power. Quick power need a quick deep retard of timing, spool up get up on boost now switch to performance timing being above that you pull more torque around 2000 so now you get up to speed you can drop +3 degrees for cruise timing at 2k and that will be 20 degrees of cruise timing. 

 

Fuel curve is setup to be smoke free but since I got quick spool up the defuel side is just for smoke but once I'm performance timing it will continue to build to the 15 PSI and now both the CanBus and wiretap build together making some serious power. Where like most they ramp up from the bottom which now the CanBus and WireTap are at different stages of power. Best to ramp together for the most power but not from 5 PSI... Not good...

For peak upper RPM power I found setting the MAX timing as high as possible lead to more top end power.  Max is only used to set timing above 3k rpm.  The calculation for timing above 3k rpm is the same as lower RPM bands, but is not constrained by a 500 rpm interval like the lower timing settings.

 

That is awesome! Thank you for taking the time to go through that. I am excited to apply the changes!

Holy Shizzzzz! What is a Smarty? Yeah she will light that turbo right off idle!

If you start off at 13⁰ at 1500 RPM, then to what do you set the Low PSI timing reduction? 

 

I have my timing table start higher, but utilize the low psi timing reduction and it works well for me compared to just starting low like 13⁰

2.0 degrees

Me personally with an auto I’ve tried 13*. Timing reduction 5*@50%. Ran decent enough. At city speeds putting around town when it would shift into 3rd it would lug and jerk  when it hit lockup. Timing would drop to like 10-11*. I even played around with %’s and degrees with the timing reduction. I noticed it wasn’t quite as bad if timing wasn’t dropping below 11 degrees. 
now I start at 15* and 5*@50%. Timing drop to high 12’s to low 13*  the lugging is gone. I get a slight back and forth jerk once lockup hits ,billet converter,if I’m below 35mph but nothing like before. The take off is much better. Over all it seems to run much better. Now when I tow I may have to drop it down more. I’ll just tweak my tow tune.    That’s just my truck and what it likes. Not saying one way is better than another. That’s the wonderful thing about the Quadzilla! 
 

13 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

That’s the wonderful thing about the Quadzilla!

Yes it is!