It's time to add head studs and I know I'm getting new, stronger valve springs as well. Is there anything else you all would recommend doing at this time as well??

If you’re doing springs I’d add push rods to the list. 

5 hours ago, Threadzy said:

If you’re doing springs I’d add push rods to the list. 

Added to the list lol

What's the intended use? And what is making it time for studs?

2 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

What's the intended use? And what is making it time for studs?

Summer, nice day driver, spirited driving from time to time lol Pull cars to the racetrack. Getting a quadzilla and already have 150hp inj with a 63mm tater built turbo making 38psi with a Smarty. Figured it's a good time to put studs in because the quadzilla should fuel a lot more thus increasing psi

Gotcha, just remember to ditch the smarty programming when you get the Quad. With the amount of adjustability that the Quad has, it doesn't mesh well with the smarty. 

 

BTW, fill out the signature a bit more, it can help us to know what truck you have and what you have done.

 

2 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Gotcha, just remember to ditch the smarty programming when you get the Quad. With the amount of adjustability that the Quad has, it doesn't mesh well with the smarty. 

 

BTW, fill out the signature a bit more, it can help us to know what truck you have and what you have done.

 

Yeah Yeah of course, selling the Smarty to my buddy & possibly the turbo as well, may get a BW S364.5. 

 

Sorry, I'm a noob and it took me till now to figure out how to do the signature thing lol 🤦‍♂️

Head studs is a good idea. It will not promise that the head gasket wont blow. Ill admit I was long way away from efficient map on the turbo. Being I past 50 PSI on 12cm2 housing the drive was enough to blow the gasket. Make sure to not to over drive the turbo.

 

Another tip do not just ramp up fuel from idle to WOT. There should be a realm of stock 100% in a cruise state. Again this is a efficiency thing.

 

As for valve spring are you planning on running past the redline? If so then yeah it would be a good idea on valve springs. Also are you planning on 60 psi of boost then yeah springs will be needed.

Gonna need bigger injectors.. Unless you are sticking with a 64.5/68/(12 or 14) or something. You would probably be better off with 200-250hp injectors. But you are starting to get into like 1800-2000 rpm for spool up too. You would want to stay smaller for efficiency if you are trying to catch @Mopar1973Man for MPG's. You might get away with it though because of the 2WD...   

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Head studs is a good idea. It will not promise that the head gasket wont blow. Ill admit I was long way away from efficient map on the turbo. Being I past 50 PSI on 12cm2 housing the drive was enough to blow the gasket. Make sure to not to over drive the turbo.

I have no idea what psi it will make with the Quadzilla, it's around 39psi with the Smarty and it doesn't even fuel that hard from what I've read.

33 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for valve spring are you planning on running past the redline? If so then yeah it would be a good idea on valve springs. Also are you planning on 60 psi of boost then yeah springs will be needed.

Well I may push the redline a little but it's mainly because they get weak over time and despite the great shape of the truck it has 300k miles. As far as I know it's the original 300k engine plus throwing more boost at I think it's a good idea for fresh, stronger springs.

31 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Gonna need bigger injectors.. Unless you are sticking with a 64.5/68/(12 or 14) or something. You would probably be better off with 200-250hp injectors. But you are starting to get into like 1800-2000 rpm for spool up too. You would want to stay smaller for efficiency if you are trying to catch @Mopar1973Man for MPG's. You might get away with it though because of the 2WD...   

I don't really want to push spool up out further in the rpm range so I'm open to suggestions. It's already around 1800 with current combo. As long as my truck stays at 20mpg or higher I'll be pleased lol

What are the rest of the turbo specs? Turbine size and housing size? The Quad might help with spool time a bit.. Don't expect miracles but might be able to pull it back 1-200 rpm.. 

8 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

What are the rest of the turbo specs? Turbine size and housing size? The Quad might help with spool time a bit.. Don't expect miracles but might be able to pull it back 1-200 rpm.. 

I'm not 100% sure, didn't come with a card or anything in the box. One of my friends has his own shop and I just told him to get what he thought would be good for my truck. He pulls in Work Stock class(I think that's the class name) & wins quite often plus has been doing that type of stuff for years so I usually trust his judgment.

24 minutes ago, Spdfrk said:

I have no idea what psi it will make with the Quadzilla, it's around 39psi with the Smarty and it doesn't even fuel that hard from what I've read.

As for boost pressure on a Quadzilla if you advance timing properly the boost should be lower. Basically if the injection is advanced enough most of the expanding gases will be tuned into work to the drive line and very little left to spool the turbo. This is why you have to adjust the amount of low boost retard to make the injection event late and the expanding gases are more so in the exhaust stream. Hint you can contrl some of the boost in just timing on a Quadzilla. Even more you can cut fuel where you want too on the map to keep boost down. Or last method you can see a boost limit on the Quadzilla and it will auto defuel for you even show you the amount of defuel being used.

 

Quadzilla Adrenaline is a 180 HP tuner. So its going to fuel 3 times harder than a Smarty S-03. I've got several tricks for fuel mapping and making a nice clean powerful truck. I will admit the magic of my high MPG numbers is in the timing not the fuel. Takes a lot of study work to get the timing just right being there is several variables that affect timing on a Cummins ISB engine. We can talk about this soon when you get your tuner. Oh a another trick if you follow my design I've got a span of just pure 100% stock fuel in my tune intended for my cruise state. Now if I lay into the throttle for any reason no the CANBus Fuel and the Wiretap are both programmed together at the same starting point at 15 PSI of boost and then ramp up to maximum fuel by the time I hit 30 PSI of boost. During the summer I have serious issues on any wire tap level (4 and up) because the tires just won't stick with this much power. Being I run a 245's which bring the ratio down to 3.69 to the ground makes it perfect for towing power. 

 

As for my turbo is was a hand me down from another member. Its a HX35/40 (60/60/12) more or less a stock HX35W turbo on the exhaust side but fitted with HX40 compressor wheel. It spools pretty darn quick and down low.  

 

As for the MPG game... Wait for it...

 

The distance... Hand math 28.04 MPG. Tank to tank. No cheating. 

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Being I run a 245's which bring the ratio down to 3.69 to the ground makes it perfect for towing power

I noticed you run stock tire size or I think that's stock size but I just can't do it lol They look like car tires on these trucks so I'm fine giving up a couple mpg to be pleasing to the eye 🤣  I've got 285/70r17 on mine.

Is your turbo a borg or an hx35? quick search on tater built says hx35 with a 63/67 set of wheels. Essentially all good for a stock appearing class. Probably have a 14 cm^2 housing.

 

If you want some better spool drop to a 12cm^2 turbine housing but you would be turbine housing limited to 5-550hp if I had to guess.

 

S362/68/14 spools around 1600 and flows within 1 pound per minute of the S363/68/14, which spools at 1800rpm.  

Edited January 26, 20223 yr by Silverwolf2691

Looks... Ok, might not be great... But torque output I got you beat...

 

285/70 R17 is 3.44:1 final ratio to the ground. This will impact your tune in the feature. I just got done setting up @Sycostang67 about a month ago running 305's and EGT's were sky high I managed to get timing built around that. Little better even he dropped back to stock 245's and dropped his EGT's down. The only issue is the final ratio is a bit taller on him because of 4th gear being 0.68 on 47RE. Yup, all this has to be considered... Too low of a cruise RPM wil hinder your tune. You gotta be up in RPM to make things work right...

 

245/75 R16 is 3.69:1 great enhancement. Lowered my EGT's at 55 MPH to 450*F. 65 MPH is barely 550*F EGT's Again part of the MPG Magic is that tire size. I'm looking for the optimal final ratio around 3.73.

 

 

NOTE: ECO is a correct number and calibrated on my truck 145% offset.

NOTE: Trans Temp is not trans oil temp but Engine Oil Temp and this is a method of checking my timing based on engine oil temps. (Hint)

Edited January 26, 20223 yr by Mopar1973Man

11 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Is your turbo a borg or an hx35? quick search on tater built says hx35 with a 63/67 set of wheels. Essentially all good for a stock appearing class. Probably have a 14 cm^2 housing.

 

If you want some better spool drop to a 12cm^2 turbine housing but you would be turbine housing limited to 5-550hp if I had to guess

I'm guessing it's an hx35 version because I had to send mine in as a core. 

 

550hp would be fine with me especially if it still spooled quick

It would be a hot 500, but a 62/65/12 can get you there too. Up to you and what you want.

 

Also, @dieselautopower is a regular on the site and he can guide you to the right setup.

13 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NOTE: ECO is a correct number and calibrated on my truck 145% offset.

NOTE: Trans Temp is not trans oil temp but Engine Oil Temp and this is a method of checking my timing based on engine oil temps. (Hint)

That's awesome you've put so much time, thought, & testing into all this!

I think he was miles per year leader for the site for a while so he had the mileage/time (sort of) to be able test and tune. 

1 hour ago, Spdfrk said:

That's awesome you've put so much time, thought, & testing into all this!

 

59 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

I think he was miles per year leader for the site for a while so he had the mileage/time (sort of) to be able test and tune. 

 

Well that came from the fact I had 5 years of running from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR with my mother @MoparMomto dialysis. That worked out to about 1,100 miles per week I drove. Total of 250k miles in 5 years. Being I was trying to be the best I could for so much travel I dial it in to the highmark I've got today. I was part of the beta test team for the Quadzilla Tuner and help with others involved in making the tuner it is today. 

 

Clue: Engine oil temp will rise considerably when the timing is advanced too far being the cylinder walls have more flame contact for longer. Optimal should start the burn in the piston and the expanding just to finish the power stroke out. This will show up in the coolant but later in time. My typical engine oil temp is much lower than coolant which hangs about 195*F but the oil temp is 160*F to 165*F normally measuring at the oil filter housing. Anything that creates excessive heat is a loss of power... Just the wrong sized tires can impact this in excessive EGT's (most common).

 

So today with 439,xxx miles on The Beast and if you figure its 238k to the moon and the back again is 476k miles just need another 37k miles I've driven to the moon and back.