Hey everyone since it’s colder nowadays on my first crank there’s grinding, but if I try again it’s fine. I popped open the inspection cover and all the teeth seems to be perfectly fine. I just bought a new starter and took the old one out but it appears to be fairly new. Is it very common for starters to do this?

Any aftermarket parts house starters can be defective without much use. My buddy bought a new parts house starter for his 07 6.7 and it went out twice in less than 6 months. He had to switch to a Denso starter to not have any more issues with it.

5 hours ago, 01_Cummins_4x4 said:

Any aftermarket parts house starters can be defective without much use. My buddy bought a new parts house starter for his 07 6.7 and it went out twice in less than 6 months. He had to switch to a Denso starter to not have any more issues with it.

I had to change starters 3 times in 24 years on my first gen 12 valve (465,000 miles). They were all rebuilt starters but, I searched the company that rebuilt them first to stay away from Bad rebuild shops and brands. I checked reviews to avoid those  that were commonly sold real junk out there. I always had to pay a little more for better rebuild brand names. I have 2 second gens now and changed out one starter with a supposed better brand 3 years ago and it's been no problem so far.

 

Good batteries and clean connections help make them last. Putting a few drops of motor oil on the batt. posts helps a lot.

Also batteries will develop a ghost draw by having dirt build up across the top of the battery case so I keep the battery clean as well.

 

Don't forget to clean that ground that is accessible when the starter is pulled... it's just next to the starter maybe up a bit on the engine block.

Edited February 1, 20232 yr by JAG1

8 hours ago, DodgeRam2002 said:

since it’s colder nowadays on my first crank there’s grinding, but if I try again it’s fine. I popped open the inspection cover and all the teeth seems to be perfectly fine.

 

There are two types of grinding that can occur. 

 

*  when starter gear teeth and flywheel teeth don't mesh - a full inspection of the flywheel ring gear must be done to eliminate the possibility of any damaged teeth.  This means barring the engine over for 360°.

 

*  when the starter drive gear clutch slips - usually first occurs in cold weather.  The starter must be replaced with a quality starter.

 

The OEM Denso starter is a quality component (along with the Denso and Bosch alternators).  On my personal truck I have installed two starter contact kits.   About 65,000 miles ago, I took the starter to Lazer Auto Electric (near Salem, OR) and had them turn the commutator, replace two bearings, and solder in new brushes - all for $50.  So, 370,000 miles later, I am still using the OEM starter.  All of my starter repairs were done from a preventative maintenance point of view - there was never a starter failure.

 

8 hours ago, DodgeRam2002 said:

I just bought a new starter and took the old one out but it appears to be fairly new.

 

What were the symptoms with the starter that you replaced?

 

- John

 

 

Edited February 1, 20232 yr by Tractorman

Just a tidbit of info...

 

I worked on a 7.3L with a grind issue. The flexplate was damaged around the ring gear in a about 3 places. I ended up replacing the flexplate. Shortly afterwards it start to do it again. Then found out there is a high torque starter and direct drive starter. We replaced the direct drive with a high torque starter and the problem stopped as far as I know since the owner moved from Idaho to Northern Cally.

 

Cummins starters are all high torque starters. The biggest thing is having the solenoid contacts in good shape and the 4 brushes for the armature in good shape. It's possible the solenoid is getting weak or the solenoid linkage to push the pinion gear out is damaged causing a miss. I've seen even just loose starter bolts do the same thing. 

 

I've seen personal on Beast the contacts fail twice on the OEM starter. Then the last go around the armature brushes failed. This cause it to burn up the armature and cause a weak start. 

 

Another weird one was a NAPA rebuilt starter that got soaked with a diesel fuel leak and caught on fire and burned up internally. Yes it had smoke coming out of the drain hole in the bottom. Yes it was burning that fuel internally!

On my 12 valve the second and third starters were free due to lifetime warranty's so I actually only paid for one in those years. I guess it's a dice roll these days with rebuilds. I saved My ND starter and will have done what @Tractorman had done at Lazer Auto Electric. I can have it ready if needed on my parts shelf.

If you find a good stater and alternator rebuild shop they do much better than any part store rebuilds. Like myself I use DuroBuilt in Nampa ID which does all rebuilds in store.