So Mike let me come hes selective about that ;)

 

Lots been going on. Picked up a f150 to drive while my truck was down but ended up giving it to my daughter.

 

 

So i was out a daily driver stuck driving our work truck a 04 cummins.

 

My tourque convertor went out with 170k on it. So i bought one local after seeing the guts they put inside 

 

The convertor in my truck was supposed to be low stall it was stock, didnt have a one peice fiber, it wasnt brazzedd for support basically the cheapest thing you could get 

 

So i got a lower stall billet piston brased, one peice fiber, reamed for more volume.

 

So i decided to tear the case down

Like completly down 

 

Orderd the gpz clutch kit from revmax a set bushings for the trans, seals throughout out.

 

Made the tools to press it apart and together. Was scared a few times i did it wrong. Over drive took me 3 attempts to be confident i had it right.

Over drive unit with 4" exhaust pipe in the press

 

 

Long peice of pipe because intermediate shaft is inside to line up over drive unit.

that is a 830lb spring in overdrive unit 

 

For some the transmission has always been the most interesting part if the truck for me.

I now kinda know how the fluid flows but still no clue how it actually works. It just does i guess.

 

Also talked to dynamic alittle bit hes a big help.

 

On tearing down my trans i found a basically stock tranny. Oem fiber counts with a kevlar front band  pretty dissapointed in this find.

 

Revmax kit puts more fibers with machined pressure plates to fit them. The raybestos gpz fibers are supposed to be good. 

 

The valve body already had the transgo tfod kit in it so leave well enough alone.

Nope i picked up the transgo pro recalibration kit.

The recalibration kit is pretty in depth took me a few hours to go through step by step. As in all things some love this kit and some hate it saying it run uneeded pressures.  

The kit supplies special seals to withstand the pressures on forward clutches   all forward gears now capable to see full pressure 

 

All in all it took about 2 weeks for me having no clue what im doing to follow the atsg book step by step.

I maybe could have done it without the book but k owing where and how to check fir clearances and end play was critical. 

I did price local shops but 3-6 weeks out and 3500-5000 price guestimates made me pull the trigger and chance it.

 

It did turn out well this transmission is freaking tight were as the last refresh was like a loose rubber band and  i thought that was good.

 

With the extra clutches lower stall better convertor and reworked valve body she will pull a house down without touching the throttle  

 

Ounce on the throttle it flat goes no slipping crisp firm quick shifts.  Zero hunting any where

Ive bumped smarty tourqe to 6 on catcher 9 . Before it would slipp on the bottom . So had tourqe at 4

Seriously thinking about getting a real programmer like you guys all run now.

 

notice the park rod clip

At the end of the atsg book you put the over drive unit on and it congratulates you for finishing.  Im like yup if it even works.

Im now watching for another 47re so i can slow build it over a couple years.

 

Anyways ive got a few hundred miles on my tranny now one that this time i actually know whats inside because i put it there .

So far realy liking it. One of those things where it shifts gears the turbo screams and you just grin n push the pedal down alittle farther

 

Anyone can do this the 727 is pretty easy to work on with the picture book in hand

 

Ive orderd seat foam/covers, door grab things that hold armrest on, head light lenses cheap clear to put the morimoto leds in (still badass)

 

Guess well just run this truck till it turn to dust

 

Ill be doing away with the casto vwashers on front axle and fabbing adjustable lower control arms to be able to set castor easily and not have it change while driving.

 

Fixed fuel leak on return line on back of the head while trans was out. Verfied it doesn't still leak there. 

Still havevantitheft active as you have to prime pump to start it. Can still smell it but dont know where its leaking.

 

Randamn sunset i shot and me in night jeep run with the crew.

 

Thanks mike for allowing me back.

 

Ive been unable to post for quite while but have lurked here and there  glad to see lots of old names .

Also got a new phone and lost mikes number and a few of yours that i knew were in contact with mike.

 

Then today i noticed i most likly could get mikes contact info back from the dark deep web and i was correct. 

 

Walla good to be back

On 7/31/2023 at 7:11 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Maybe it would nice that I don't have to fix thousands of trucks with the same issue. This is my next customer while I'm camped out in Parma ID. Let's say I've learned how to do it right from all the mistakes I fix on my customers trucks. Being I do learn what not to do why would I do something to create issues? Then ask why do my clients come to me and ask me to fix it? Yup that is Thor to the left of the pic.

Thats a good looking truck.

 

For what its worth our 04 has 219 k. Im working through the front end.

 08.5 steering oe balljoints are shot. Unit bearings toast.

This is a small tire street rig. I do beleive big tires will cause parts to wear faster but this ones eating parts at about the same rate as my 02 did with big tires.

 

Havent done the track bar yet as it seems to be alright. When its time itl get a adjustable track same as my 02.

 

We dont even tow much with the pickups anymore just not worth the wear and tear.

Ohhh this clutch is headed out aswell im waiting for the transmission to break so i can go through it and install new clutch at same time.  You know 2 birds one stone kinda thing.

 

Offcourse it rains when i start a project 

Yup. All I can say is make sure to hit a alignment rack and have them adjust the track bar to get true straight thrust angle. If you do like a 2 inch leveling kit it will push the axle down and towards the driver side. Being you not using a lift kit then you technically would not need a adjustable track bar unless you are planning a lift kit the do both lower control arms adjustable and track that is adjustable. This way you can set caster and thrust angle correctly.

I do tape measure aligment had just as good if not better results than alignment shop.

Been 12ish years since my 02s been on a rack it has the truest wearing tires around.

 

My jeep is freaking pretty sweet to. But its all gutted and reworked from axle tubes to the frame.  Nothing stock left. Ive never had it on a rack.  

Tires wear true and you can drive it 80 with your pinky while shes screaming 3500rpms. 

So no i wont be putting the truck on rack after fabbing trackbar.

 

However if something does change and i start getting bad wear or funky handling characteristics i will suck it up and get help. Though unlikely 

 

I did do 2" leveling on my truck but i have 1ton rear springs.

 

The 04 is pretty sacked out with fuel tank and junk on on it. Might make more sense to lower front and inch or two or maybe raise rear to handle load better. 

 

But its kinda ok its sitting about level as is its a work truck. 

 

I do the track bar because the oem bushings are junk. Its silly to fabb a fixed bar. I see now why you mention leveling kit.

 

My 02 has about 200k on my track bar the 07 that got totaled had about 100k. We were lucky to get 20k on the 07 oem or after market track bars.

 

That was a cab n chassis truck so maybe its thrust angle was off from the factory eating the track bars since the front end was same as 3/4

 

Lol i dunno even know what thrust angle is track bar locates axle side to side preferbly centerd on frame at ride height.

 

Then control arms do castor.  Thrust angle is probly a fast food aligment shop term made to make themselves sound smart.

My track bar appears original and never had a problem no wobble and 325K miles. I replaced the bushings and caster alignment bolts a couple years ago. That was a lot of torching.

 

I replaced an axle u joint and I think I bent an ear. The joints were really stuck in there it has some binding when turned hard.

 

I had a shop change ball joints like 10 years ago and its had a slight pull to the right ever since.

 

I wish there was a way to check the ball joint cams and spacers without putting all back together. 

I have 2 second gen Cummins, one with a Georend deep trans pan and the other a Mag Hytech Deep trans pan. I do my own trans service every 30,000 drop the pans and change filters and adjust the bands on both trucks. I like the Georend trans pan far better even looks higher quality over all and when you look at the mating surfaces The Georend looks to be finished with more care in mind. Everytime I do the Georend pan it never leaks but that dang MagHytech always leaks. Drives me nuts. Anyone else get tired of the weeping leak from the MagHytech? I don't like the funky drain plug either, the Georend has a nice beafy drain plug and good slope for better drainage. Mag Hy tech is a flat bottom.

Ive had no issues with the ppe deep pan.   Though im unsure anything more than welding a drain plug in the eom pan is all thats needed.