As you can see, the tube is recessed, I believe it was pushed back while it was in the shop getting the engine replaced...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xGfBWrPxEVdmixyd9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KU7x3hpmXF5rNfCP9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GXqZCPGzihAunuQW6

 

Just extend the drain nipple with another piece of vinyl tubing or rubber hose. That should help drain the water outside. The HVAC box is bolted to the firewall so if it was pushed back it would break the bottom of the case.

so you think it was cut rather than pushed back?  insert the tubing INTO the metal tube? there isn't enough metal sticking out to put tubing around it and clamp.

Or do I have bigger problems and it has cracked my HVAC box??

 

I've only had the dash off once to put a new heater core in and don't remember how it looked, actually I don't think I moved the HVAC box at all during that process.

Look under the passengers side foot well do you see any part of the case broken? That drain is under the evaporator which is just left of the blower motor from the passenger perspective. Should be a low spot with what looks like a round flat spot this is the drain going out.

 

Using my clients truck for the photo. This round spot is the drain that pokes out the firewall. The evaporator is just above this drain so moisture that sweats off the evaporator can drain outside. So verify that this is not broken. Other than that check the HVAC box fasteners there are nuts on the engine side. Do not over torque you can pull t he studs out of the HVAC case. There is two inside but you need to remove the dash to reach.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Look under the passengers side foot well do you see any part of the case broken? That drain is under the evaporator which is just left of the blower motor from the passenger perspective. Should be a low spot with what looks like a round flat spot this is the drain going out.

Nope, no cracks that I can see, though can see where the water has been leaking from the firewall back into the cab.  Any idea what the inside diameter of the tube is? I'll just get some aluminum tubing that is just the right size and epoxy it in.

 

This is the problem, the pipe that stuck out is now flush, if not recessed a bit.... honestly looks cut to me but the shop owner was like my guys would NEVER do that... and I'd swear it was sticking out almost 2 inches when I sent it to them for the engine work.

 

Remove some of that insulation and slip a piece of silicone tubing over the nipple. Silicone will stretch, seal and hold better than regular rubber hose. No clamp needed.

8 minutes ago, Max Tune said:

Remove some of that insulation and slip a piece of silicone tubing over the nipple. Silicone will stretch, seal and hold better than regular rubber hose. No clamp needed.

I can't get to it that easily, maybe if I had a lift.... had to contort pretty heavily just to get the photo.

I just replaced the accumulator on my truck a couple weeks ago  the drain does stick out at least an inch or more. It's very easy to access without the accumulator but that means  recovering and opening the system. Technically a tech needs an EPA 609 to do that but the law doesn't clarify a non technician. 

On 7/31/2023 at 12:41 PM, Tim Waldo said:

I can't get to it that easily, maybe if I had a lift.... had to contort pretty heavily just to get the photo.

If you go from under the truck it's not so bad to get to.

Here's another tidbit of information.  As has been noted, there is just a piece of straight pipe sticking out into the engine compartment.  A few years ago my passenger side carpet was getting wet.  Turned out that the seal between the HVAC housing and engine firewall had weathered enough to allow water leaving the end of the pipe to find a path back into the cabin.  I inserted a rubber hose elbow on the end pipe - problem resolved.

 

It took me awhile to figure out the problem as we were on vacation with our travel trailer east of the Rockies.  Since it was raining every other day or so, I first thought it was rain water leaking into the cabin. 

 

- John

Went and looked at my truck. Laying on the ground I was able to reach the nipple easily. This is what I found.

The outside diameter of this hose is almost exactly the outside diameter of the nipple.

 

Here is the OD of the hose. Couldn't get my caliper up there to measure the nipple directly. 

 

15.5mm is .6 inch. If you get a piece of latex tubing with 1/2" ID it should go over the nipple snuggly. Use hairspray as a lubricant to ease installation and it will dry and hold like glue. Or you can use glue.😆😆

 

You can get at the insulation around the nipple with a small screwdriver or punch. Even if you just push it back to create space to slide tubing on you'll be good. Can always fill gap with silicone when finished. Hope this helps.

Just seen tractormans post. A rubber elbow would work to. I suggested latex because it will stretch and create a tight seal easily. 

OK, not trying to be a pest, just trying to help...😇

 

Had this laying around. Bought it at menards.

 

Used a socket to stretch it. Got it on the socket and heated it a bit with a butane torch. Got it hot and let it cool.

 

Went on with a little wiggling and stretching out the end with my pinky. Fit snug and took a bit of wiggling to remove. If I used hairspray or glue it would have slipped right on.

1 hour ago, Max Tune said:

Went and looked at my truck. Laying on the ground I was able to reach the nipple easily. This is what I found.

The outside diameter of this hose is almost exactly the outside diameter of the nipple.

 

 

Here is the OD of the hose. Couldn't get my caliper up there to measure the nipple directly. 

 

 

15.5mm is .6 inch. If you get a piece of latex tubing with 1/2" ID it should go over the nipple snuggly. Use hairspray as a lubricant to ease installation and it will dry and hold like glue. Or you can use glue.😆😆

 

You can get at the insulation around the nipple with a small screwdriver or punch. Even if you just push it back to create space to slide tubing on you'll be good. Can always fill gap with silicone when finished. Hope this helps.

Just seen tractormans post. A rubber elbow would work to. I suggested latex because it will stretch and create a tight seal easily. 

OK, not trying to be a pest, just trying to help...😇

 

Had this laying around. Bought it at menards.

 

 

Used a socket to stretch it. Got it on the socket and heated it a bit with a butane torch. Got it hot and let it cool.

 

 

Went on with a little wiggling and stretching out the end with my pinky. Fit snug and took a bit of wiggling to remove. If I used hairspray or glue it would have slipped right on.

 

The problem is, where you have a nipple sticking out past the firewall.. if you look at my photo, mine is recessed into the firewall... looks like it has been cut or broken off.  If you could verify I would REALLY appreciate it... I miked the ID at 3mm, someone confirming would be AWEESOME.  I actually ordered some telescoping tubing from amazon in hopes one of the sections would fit inside of the pipe and I'll cut it off and epoxy it.

56 minutes ago, Tim Waldo said:

 

The problem is, where you have a nipple sticking out past the firewall.. if you look at my photo, mine is recessed into the firewall... looks like it has been cut or broken off.  If you could verify I would REALLY appreciate it... I miked the ID at 3mm, someone confirming would be AWEESOME.  I actually ordered some telescoping tubing from amazon in hopes one of the sections would fit inside of the pipe and I'll cut it off and epoxy it.

Ya I understand yours is broke off flush. That's why I say you can remove or push back the insulation to give you a little area to slip the tubing over it. By stretching the tubing I got from menards like I did, and using some type of glue, I'm certain you will have a watertight seal. Wouldn't take much, even a 1/4" would hold. I personally think something on the outside of the drain would be better than the inside for no other reason than maintaining drainage and not making the hole smaller. I did what I did as proof of concept so to speak. Being my drain is intact it was easier to get sizes and procedures than trying to do it on a hidden tube. Hopefully you get something figured out, but I know for a fact that what I did will work for you. It really is easy to get at from underneath. Pulling the lip of the plastic fender well back gave me even more room to get my arm up there.

One other thing I would suggest,  however you try to fix it, is clean the tube thoroughly with brake cleaner before gluing/epoxying 

This hose just fits inside the tube. Hope it helps.

THANK YOU... that is exactly what I needed.

 

Yeah, prior to this I had a foot long piece of water hose clamped to mine.  I am VERY frustrated with the shop because I am SURE it happened on their watch and they are totally denying anything happened.

 

I'll let you know how this goes... 

Edited August 2, 20231 yr by Tim Waldo

On 8/2/2023 at 9:19 AM, Tim Waldo said:

THANK YOU... that is exactly what I needed.

 

Yeah, prior to this I had a foot long piece of water hose clamped to mine.  I am VERY frustrated with the shop because I am SURE it happened on their watch and they are totally denying anything happened.

 

I'll let you know how this goes... 

 

So I ordered this tubing, it was not actually 10mm OD, it was 9 by my meter (cheap plastic from harbor freight).... SO cut it in half so I have 2 6" pieces and tried one for size... it was way loose...  I marked it for depth about an inch and half pulled it and cut it down a bit more.  I then got the electrical tape and played with how many times to wrap it to get a snug fit (about twice) placed it in the hole and extended with a bit of tubing that I had that would fit over and zip tied the tubing to the frame to secure the tube a bit more.  Going to make a 100 ish mile round trip and see how it works.  If anyone were going to order similar tubing from amazon I would try 11 mm OD. OR go with the 10 and know you'll need to add something to take up the gap.  Total metal tube length was 4" when I was done.  Photos later.

So final repair.  10mm OD aluminum pipe , two wraps of electrical tape, some rubber fuel line and some plumbers putty.  

That putty might not last very long with turbo heat. There is epoxy putty that will actually bind and harden.

Did the pipe fit over the nipple?