Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive .  A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit.
It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function 

Vacuum?

 

Now that I owned...

 

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 46RE

2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 5 Speed

2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins 6 Speed

 

I can say loses to spinning hardware are minimal. Being 2002 Dodge is a solid axle and spins constantly and still can reach 30 MPG. My 1996 Dodge had a CAD axle and barely got 14 MPG and nothing spins. As for the 2006 Dodge it can reach 15 to 16 MPG but it 2,500 pounds over weight with a flat bed and huge winch bumper which I'm removing and putting a factory bumpers and bed back on and going to get a CR truck to 30 MPG again with a solid axle.

Edited October 6, 2024Oct 6 by Mopar1973Man

Vacuum would be my first thought as well.  Did you do anything with the vacuum lines on the axle?   I thought about a free spin kit but as I get older, I enjoy not having to get out and lock hubs.  I did get the posi lock a few years ago but have yet to install it.  I got it when I was having intermittent vacuum issues.  I replaced the under hood vacuum lines and haven’t had any issues since. 

15 hours ago, Sycostang67 said:

Vacuum would be my first thought as well.  Did you do anything with the vacuum lines on the axle?   I thought about a free spin kit but as I get older, I enjoy not having to get out and lock hubs.  I did get the posi lock a few years ago but have yet to install it.  I got it when I was having intermittent vacuum issues.  I replaced the under hood vacuum lines and haven’t had any issues since. 

I’m pretty sure that’s what it is . Haven’t had time to look at it yet everywhere I look is a project and pickup has slid back down priority list. 😂. I haven’t done any thing with vacuum lines on axle in fact I don’t even really understand what the do as the 4wheel drive manually engages….

Posi lock? I know not

Thanks

Or just have the solid axle like Beast and not worry.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Or just have the solid axle like Beast and not worry.

Beast came with the solid axle?

30 minutes ago, kbf98520 said:

Beast came with the solid axle?

 

Yes sir no CAD axle here... With all my tuning like dropping from 265's (31.7") to 245's (30.5") tires, then adding the Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner and understanding how to properly build tunes that are highly efficient. Then watch my temperatures of everything because anything creating a large amount of heat is loss of power and efficiency. This is why I never bother with free spin hubs because no one to this day has beaten me in efficiency numbers like MPG. My current high mark is 30 MPG and crossing the entire state of Washington on just a 1/4 of a tank of fuel from Seattle WA to Idaho border outside Lewiston ID. 

 

Just keep in mind every 1 pound of rotational mass you remove is like removing 8 pounds off the frame. Like on my tires just dropping from 265's to 245's was about 20 pounds per tire off which 800 pounds off the frame. This is why racing slicks are barely 20 to 30 pounds per tire also remember smooth tread face is more efficient than offroad mud tires. 

 

Then with a 5 speed NV4500 transmission with a dual disc clutch I've got no slip in the transmission which 47RE are more prone to slip. Proper use of gearing and throttle goes way better than "Babying The Truck". 

• Optimal RPM is 1,800 to 2,700 RPM. Anything below this is considered lugging the engine. 
• Optimal Boost pressure is ZERO! Yes, this is correct if you are properly tuned then you should be able to cruise at highway speeds (55 to 65 MPH) without any boost pressure.
• Optimal coolant temperature and Engine Oil Temperature is hotter than most think. I'm now running 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins with engine oil temperatures following at 170℉.

So the whole free spin axle set up is going to net you a very, very small gain that is barely noticed. Where they mods I've done makes the truck efficient. 

The posi lock is a cable system that replaces the vacuum portion of the cad setup on your axle.  To engage the axle disconnect you pull a knob that physically activates it instead of relying on the vacuum diaphragm.   There is also a version that just permanently connects the axle halves which is what I would probably use if I had a free spin kit.   
 

Regarding the vacuum topic though, if you didn’t mess with the vacuum lines on your axle you may just have a leak somewhere else in the system.  My cruise control behaving the way yours is clued me into my leak.  I got a new vacuum harness from Rock auto which fixed my problem.  You can also find it on Amazon.  Mopar part number  55056421AA. 

2 hours ago, Sycostang67 said:

The posi lock is a cable system that replaces the vacuum portion of the cad setup on your axle.  To engage the axle disconnect you pull a knob that physically activates it instead of relying on the vacuum diaphragm.   There is also a version that just permanently connects the axle halves which is what I would probably use if I had a free spin kit.   
 

Regarding the vacuum topic though, if you didn’t mess with the vacuum lines on your axle you may just have a leak somewhere else in the system.  My cruise control behaving the way yours is clued me into my leak.  I got a new vacuum harness from Rock auto which fixed my problem.  You can also find it on Amazon.  Mopar part number  55056421AA. 

Can you tell me more about the permanent set up to eliminate the CAD please?

It’s at LMC truck, runs about $80. 

On 10/10/2024 at 1:10 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes sir no CAD axle here... With all my tuning like dropping from 265's (31.7") to 245's (30.5") tires, then adding the Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner and understanding how to properly build tunes that are highly efficient. Then watch my temperatures of everything because anything creating a large amount of heat is loss of power and efficiency. This is why I never bother with free spin hubs because no one to this day has beaten me in efficiency numbers like MPG. My current high mark is 30 MPG and crossing the entire state of Washington on just a 1/4 of a tank of fuel from Seattle WA to Idaho border outside Lewiston ID. 

 

Just keep in mind every 1 pound of rotational mass you remove is like removing 8 pounds off the frame. Like on my tires just dropping from 265's to 245's was about 20 pounds per tire off which 800 pounds off the frame. This is why racing slicks are barely 20 to 30 pounds per tire also remember smooth tread face is more efficient than offroad mud tires. 

 

Then with a 5 speed NV4500 transmission with a dual disc clutch I've got no slip in the transmission which 47RE are more prone to slip. Proper use of gearing and throttle goes way better than "Babying The Truck". 

• Optimal RPM is 1,800 to 2,700 RPM. Anything below this is considered lugging the engine. 
• Optimal Boost pressure is ZERO! Yes, this is correct if you are properly tuned then you should be able to cruise at highway speeds (55 to 65 MPH) without any boost pressure.
• Optimal coolant temperature and Engine Oil Temperature is hotter than most think. I'm now running 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins with engine oil temperatures following at 170℉.

So the whole free spin axle set up is going to net you a very, very small gain that is barely noticed. Where they mods I've done makes the truck efficient. 

5 u joints, three shafts, unserviceable wheel bearings, differential and transfer case spinning all the time needlessly was my main concern. Increasing efficiency was secondary.

That being said, I like the idea of a hotter thermostat. I run diesel engines for a living and have alway understood that they are more efficient when ran a little hotter.

A little bit at a time. I have a few more upgrades planned then I’ll be looking to bump up horsepower. Turbo, injectors, tuner

😁

My truck came originally spec’s with the non cad 60.

 

Few years ago it blew up and I found a non cad 60 in a junk yard and swapped it in. I installed EMF balljoints and the Yukon free spin kit.

 

I like the idea of nothing turning inside as over time the seals wear into the shafts & pinion yoke as with the oem system. They also don’t utilize unitized seals like AAM. 
 

I will eventually swap it out with a Dynatrac 60 as they make them still for 2nd gens and you can get 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio.

Edited November 17, 2024Nov 17 by Mace

On 11/16/2024 at 6:15 PM, Mace said:

My truck came originally spec’s with the non cad 60.

 

Few years ago it blew up and I found a non cad 60 in a junk yard and swapped it in. I installed EMF balljoints and the Yukon free spin kit.

 

I like the idea of nothing turning inside as over time the seals wear into the shafts & pinion yoke as with the oem system. They also don’t utilize unitized seals like AAM. 
 

I will eventually swap it out with a Dynatrac 60 as they make them still for 2nd gens and you can get 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio.

What are the benefits of 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio?

Well. The Dana 60 came standard in everything else (like Ford) with the mentioned items.

 

Its neutered for Dodge for whatever reason. High pinion reduces the front driveshaft angle for one and its “stronger” for placing the pinion gear above the crown gear vs the low pinion/reverse cut we have.

 

Most Dana 60’s came spec’s with 35 spline shafts stock vs our 30 (32 on the later ones). AAM’s are 33. Bigger spline = great diameter shaft.

 

3.73 is run by Ram now (& Ford). Seems to be the sweet spot vs 3.54 and the big jump to 4.10.

 

Cad was another thing that is a Chrysler creation too.

 

Go on Dana Spicers website and spec a diff they don’t offer any of the Dodge things which makes me wonder by Dana did it in the first place.

3 hours ago, kbf98520 said:

What are the benefits of 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio?

 

Running 3.69 final ratio after tires which is easy just drop to 245/75 R16 tire on 3.55 and close enough without huge cost of gear swap.

 

Being I'm the MPG king with solid axle no CAD and no free spin kit I've past the 30 MPG mark by crossing the entire state of Washington on a 1/4 tank of fuel.

 

Low rotational mass (smaller is better), good final ratio after tires (245/75 R16), good tuner with timing settings (Quadzilla) you can do the same without the huge cost. 

 

Let me know when you can top 30 MPG. 

Edited November 18, 2024Nov 18 by Mopar1973Man

I’ve owned my truck since new. I don’t care about mileage, what I desire is a modern drivetrain that is the same or better then what’s offered today.

 

I find my fun in modifying things. I also live in mountains where I burn nothing going down and lots going up.

 

I want my truck to compete with today’s 500 hp HO F450 that can gooseneck up to 40k lbs and not sweat without ever buying one. Well that’s asking a lot I suppose lol.

 

2nd gens are gone forever now I just want to live in the past again :’)

On 11/18/2024 at 1:11 PM, Mace said:

I want my truck to compete with today’s 500 hp HO F450 that can gooseneck up to 40k lbs and not sweat without ever buying one

Already there and can compete with that currently. I'm already 500 HP and solid to tow anything I wish no issues (EGTs, etc.). Biggest thing for towing is make sure you in a 3.73 realm this will remove a ton of stress off the axles and transmission hence why I registered already for the maximum of 26,000 pound commercial plates. My problem is with my amount of power I can hitch up my 31 foot RV (8,500 pounds) and fry the tires while towing. Why I opted for the 245/75 R16 tires I can have the 3.69 ratio without the cost of axle swaps.

 

 

They’re not even in the realm of being equal.

 

I mean i have a Dana 80 and the F450 is using the M300 on the 17+. I’d love to swap in a Dana 110/135 but the lowest ration is 4.30. They also use the Dana Super 60 on the front which has a bigger crown gear then a regular 60. That setup is beef.

 

Frames bigger, brakes bigger, etc.

 

I want to buy a 44’ 3 axle toy hauler but I don’t think a 2nd gen is gonna pull (and stop) nicely.

 

I dream of putting my cab on a f550 frame and running a 24v with a nv5600.

22 hours ago, Mace said:

 

I want to buy a 44’ 3 axle toy hauler but I don’t think a 2nd gen is gonna pull (and stop) nicely.

 

For sure not going to with 44 inch tires. Even with 37 inch these trucks suck for braking, suspension, and acceleration and MPG. Most foul the ratio and then have huge issues.

Biggest thing is keeping a final ratio after the tires near 3.73 if possible. Oh make sure the steering gear box is NOT a quick ratio.

 @Mopar1973Man, I think he meant a 44 foot trailer not 44" tires.

@Mace, if that kind of power and beef is what your looking for why not buy a Dodge 4500 or 5500? You could get a standard wheelbase chassis and place a bed on it. It would come with the latest 6.7 cummins and very heavy axles as well.