I was thinking about how long the stock radiators lasted verse an aftermarket replacement. Could you tell us how old and milage on the original radiator when replaced and what brand was the replacement if known.

If you bought the truck used and don't know the answer to the above question but have had to replace the radiator, please tell us the milage, how long you think the old one lasted, and replacement brand.

Thank you,

IBMobile

I am still running the same OEM original radiator that was installed on the Dodge Ram production line but I flushed out the orignal coolant 20 years ago and replace it with Shell Extended Life Coolant (ELC). The new replacement radiators suck. Very crappy quality.

On edit: I meant to add that at every oil change, I have drawn out a gallon of coolant and replaced with new Shell ELC cool premix to keep the additives up to par.

Edited September 13Sep 13 by LiveOak

I replaced my OEM radiator in March of 2019 at 309,000 miles on the odometer. A small leak developed on the driver side where the upper part of the side tank connected to the core. I replaced the radiator with a Napa radiator - not sure of the brand, but the part number was 2464.

Truck odometer is currently at 403,000 miles.

I'll be heading into my 3rd Radiator now. I'm at 500k miles, and the tank gasket on the driver side is leaking. I cut the radiator cap vent disk off, and now the radiator does not hold any pressure, but I've been this way for over 1 year,r even with a 200℉ thermostat, and still have a leaking radiator still. This winter, I'm hoping to be able to replace that radiator.

I’m on my original rad @ 442k km. I change the coolant every 2 years with Cummins ELC. I wish these engines had a spin on water filter head like the 8.3 has (built into the engine).

I’m also on my original VP44…ask me the secret to that ;)

6 hours ago, Mace said:

I’m also on my original VP44…ask me the secret to that ;)

Ok, What is the secret?

• John

7 hours ago, Mace said:

I’m on my original rad @ 442k km. I change the coolant every 2 years with Cummins ELC. I wish these engines had a spin on water filter head like the 8.3 has (built into the engine).

I’m also on my original VP44…ask me the secret to that ;)

Do tell...

Luck mostly.

We didn’t actually have to change over to ULSD for a couple years when it was introduced. When it was finally forced I ran used 15w40 (just the stuff from my oil changes) with every fill up (switched to 2 stroke oil after reading your article on it).

Also, I never had the Carter lift pump fail like so many did in the beginning.

By the time I switch it to the GDP Fuel Boss it just wouldn’t die.

Also I have never run a tune either. I have Bosch 40 hp injectors but power wise it’s stock.

That’s the key thing. P7100 are oil lubed and VP’s are with fuel.

So mostly just luck.

43 minutes ago, Mace said:

We didn’t actually have to change over to ULSD for a couple years when it was introduced. When it was finally forced I ran used 15w40 (just the stuff from my oil changes) with every fill up (switched to 2 stroke oil after reading your article on it).

You confirmed the 2-cycle oil theory is solid if you have an OEM pump still going.

44 minutes ago, Mace said:

Also I have never run a tune either. I have Bosch 40 hp injectors but power wise it’s stock.

I'm at a +150 HP injector (7 x 0.010, popped at 320 bar (4,641 PSI). Then Quadzilla custom tune which I'm re doing for this coming winter on the day I use my truck. Trick on my end, DO NOT just ramp up power. I don't reach above 100% stock till 20 PSI of boost. So technically, I'm just running my +150 HP injectors and no additional fuel, less stress on the pump for a daily driver. Running about 23 to 25 degrees of timing at 2,000 RPM. Partially to make up for the lateness of the injectors which are popped higher.

Just figured I'd share my ideas with yours...

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You confirmed the 2-cycle oil theory is solid if you have an OEM pump still going.

I'm at a +150 HP injector (7 x 0.010, popped at 320 bar (4,641 PSI). Then Quadzilla custom tune which I'm re doing for this coming winter on the day I use my truck. Trick on my end, DO NOT just ramp up power. I don't reach above 100% stock till 20 PSI of boost. So technically, I'm just running my +150 HP injectors and no additional fuel, less stress on the pump for a daily driver. Running about 23 to 25 degrees of timing at 2,000 RPM. Partially to make up for the lateness of the injectors which are popped higher.

Just figured I'd share my ideas with yours...

I had the oem lift pump (in conjunction with the GDP Fuel Boss) until my ecm failed earlier this year. Now I’m rocking just an Airdog 100.

I’m too nervous to program my truck just in the case the tuner fails and takes something else out.

Although I’m curious to see it “woken up”. New trucks leave me in the dust and I’ve accepted it haha.

Edited Friday at 07:35 PM2 days by Mace

@Mace , I think you saying that your are at 442,000 kilometers (275,000 miles) on your truck, currently?

I know other people (not very many) that also have had the same long life on their injection pump.

I'm at 402,000 miles on the truck with 315,000 miles (507,000 kilometers) on a replacement injection pump. The first pump was replaced under warranty at 87,000 miles. Also, a new in-tank lift pump was installed under the same warranty, even though the original lift pump was still in good working order.

My replacement fuel injection pump operated with only 6 psi @ idle and 3 psi @ WOT from the in-tank pump for the first 150,000 miles. I replaced the in-tank lift pump with a used frame mounted FASS 65 gph lift pump - the in-tank pump was still fine, I just wanted the ability to do a road side repair if the lift pump failed. The used FASS pump is currently in use - 12 psi @ idle and 6 psi @ WOT.

My replacement fuel injection pump has never received any two-stroke oil, nor any fuel additives, nor any other special attention. I have run the Smarty tuner on a mild tune for 150,000 miles, and RV275 hp injectors for 150,000 miles.

• John

I’m sure there’s a lot of trucks with more miles than me. I’m pretty happy with 25 years. Even if it dies tomorrow I’m pleased it went this long.

I’m also sure things like the VP are built better today then when they came out.

3 hours ago, Mace said:

I’m also sure things like the VP are built better today then when they came out.

I agree.

• John

22 hours ago, Mace said:

I’m too nervous to program my truck just in the case the tuner fails and takes something else out.

Ahhh. Fear not! Quadzilla tuner is interception tuner. Basically the 2 pin CanBus connector allows access to live data. Quadzilla only changes the datastream and none of the ECM or PCM is altered or programmed. If you need stock just turn to level ZERO and all tuning stops but continues to display live data. This in not like Smarty which flashes the ECM EPROM and alters the physical ECM software.

Quadzilla is safe.

19 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Ahhh. Fear not! Quadzilla tuner is interception tuner. Basically the 2 pin CanBus connector allows access to live data. Quadzilla only changes the datastream and none of the ECM or PCM is altered or programmed. If you need stock just turn to level ZERO and all tuning stops but continues to display live data. This in not like Smarty which flashes the ECM EPROM and alters the physical ECM software.

Quadzilla is safe.

Then I may be interested. If you know a tune that’ll make it run better I’m all ears.