Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

--- Update to the previous post...

Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.

What you fuel pressure like? (Idle & WOT) Of course before you had issues...

Was fuel GELLED? You still can't get it started? Do you have fuel pressure at the filter? Are you sure you have fuel(guage could be bad)? And no running 911 through to degell the fuel in an emergency did'nt fry your VP44

Well the pump seem OK (marginal at best). If it was me... I would disconnect the fuel line at the tank and blow the enitre system out. Drain the filter housing... Then reprime the entire system and see if it starts. If the truck is in a semi-heated garage then it should be just a matter of re-priming the system....

Well if it was me, and i had good fuel pressure at the filter,i'd start cracking fuel lines to get it primed and running.

I drained the filter again and reprimed/bled system via filter. My lift pump is putting out 16-17 psi when I bump starter to prime. Now my battery is draining so will have to recharge that, but still now start, and still no codes.

I drained the filter again and reprimed/bled system via filter. My lift pump is putting out 16-17 psi when I bump starter to prime. Now my battery is draining so will have to recharge that, but still now start, and still no codes.

Never did say whether fuel was gelled or not.

What is best way to check if VP44 is putting out pressure with truck not starting? Is this possible? Is it possible that the VP44 is damaged without throwing a code (i.e. The next most common MECHANICAL failure is that the rotor seizes in the distributor section of the pump. I should note here that all previous rotary style pumps have had this problem too, to varying degrees. The most common cause and most accepted reason for this failure on rotary pumps is lack of lubrication due to running out of fuel or the possible lower lubricity of the newer low sulphur fuels. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/injectionpumpfailures.html

Is it possible that the fuel starvation from gelled fuel could have done the above quoted stuff from blue chip? Thanks for all the continued support and guidance. There's a reason why I go here now instead of the other forums for straight talk.

I would be surprized if cranking dry for a short period would cause damage as this happens all the time with diesels. I would crack one injector (1,2,3,4 while 5&6 are too awkward) at a time while cranking and check for fuel with a piece of cardboard or paper towel with rubber gloves(not thin latex ones) and glasses over the eyes. That 25,000 psi fuel cuts skin easily so be careful to keep away from spray. There are some mechanical failures in the VP44 that will not throw a code. You can attach a pressure guage at the VP44 fuel inlet to check low pressure fuel system. This is after the filter right at the VP44 inlet so a plugged filter will show. A guage with proper schraeder fitting is about $40 or less. If you just bump the starter quickly the LP pump will activate for a full 30 seconds for checking pressure even though engine does not start. You could disconnect the return flow at the rubber splice in the metal line and use a fuel line hose into a jar to check return flow. The banjo fitting at the exit of the VP44 has a ball and spring pressure regulator plus a fixed bleed hole. I am not sure of the expected flow while cranking since the VP44 is noted for very low flow at idle. I thought that 911 had some lubricity additive in it to counter the dryness according to the label? I would just add some outboard two stroke oil rather than drain tank. Once you prove that you have fuel going to injectors you know you should start as long as compression is good. Have you downloaded the FSM in the download section on this site so you can read the VP44 troubleshooting section?

I'm getting ready to bleed my injector lines 3,4,5 per FSM. Couple quick questions:1. The FSM says to loosen lines 3,4,5 - how much is considered loose enough - 2. once they're loose is when I crank starter 30 seconds at a time until starts and runs.Never done this before so bear with my questions - just want to do this correctly.I didn't mess around with the truck at all yesterday as had family visiting for New Years, but ready to get on it again today.

I'm getting ready to bleed my injector lines 3,4,5 per FSM. Couple quick questions: 1. The FSM says to loosen lines 3,4,5 - how much is considered loose enough - 2. once they're loose is when I crank starter 30 seconds at a time until starts and runs. Never done this before so bear with my questions - just want to do this correctly. I didn't mess around with the truck at all yesterday as had family visiting for New Years, but ready to get on it again today.

yes no need to crank the engine was bumped the relay will latch and the lift pump will run for about 30 seconds and then just watch the lines until you get some decent amount of fuel running out of them.

Loosened, did several cranks with no luck, never really saw any fuel jetting out, about ready to give up, retightened, 10 second crank - coughed and started.Hopefully, she'll stay running -Appreciate all the support from everyone.

well good to hear man!

it is amazing how much trouble an engine has when it gets air in the fuel system!especially ours!

yes i agree a little bit of air goes a long way!!!