New to this forum and need some assistance. Recently purchased 02 3500 truck with 188k miles on it. My understanding is the fuel pump should be changed out and relocated due to the heat from the engine. The truck runs fine, but don't won't to screw up the injector pump. What pumps are recommended for this fix and where do you get the best bang for the buck? What are the pros and cons of the kit from Dodge, other than it is too damn expensive? Has anyone had any luck at repairing the rear plastic fender wells with the types of epoxies on the market? Duramix? Automix? What about adding a fuel pressure gauge and where should it located? Thanks from Texas.

Howdie fellow texanI installed the Airdog 100 about a year ago they also make a 150 you really cant beat it just do a search on air dog and check it out.

A fuel pump from FASS called the DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pump) just became available late last year. I installed one in November on my 2001 HO. It is a gear rather than a vane pump like the originals and has a 4 year warranty. Mine delivers 18-20psi at idle. It also mounts to the factory bracket and the fuel fittings and power plug connect right up.

Wow, Amslube, that's really interesting. I'm still running the stock lift pump on my low mileage 01. A quality replacement pump would be really welcome.Russ

GDP http://www.glacierdieselpower.com sells some real nice lift pump systems also. And Richard is a super guy to deal with!!!

If you are not going to leave the engine stock mean moderate and up modifications, I recommend the Air Dog or FASS. If you are gonna leave the engine stock or conservative modifications, the Vulcan Big Line/Pump relocation kit and a modified Aertex E8845 pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... ps9804.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Airtex ... tx8845.htm Eric at Vulcan can modify the Aertex pump for you to accept 1/2 AN fittings. I have this very set up on my wifes truck which is stock and it is working very well. If you decide to go the Air Dog route, it is more involved on the install but worth the effort for a modified truck. Better hurry if you want an Air Dog, the price is going up soon Xtreme Diesel has them for $499 and free shipping. http://www.xtremediesel.com/pureflowtec ... fp150.aspx The kit from Dodge is expensive junk that does NOT work. The pressure is too low and it does not meet flow requirments for the injector pump. Regardless of what pump set up you have, a fuel pressure gauge is an absolute necessity. If you are going to add mods. I strongly recommend a boost and EGT gauge as well. The guages can be mounted on the A pillar if you choose to mount all three or you can mount them on the steering wheel colmn just behing the steering wheel. Other mounts use the dash. I have the Boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauges mounted on the A pillar and my wife's truck has the just the fuel pressure gauge mounted on the steering wheel column. This is the gauge mount I have in my truck: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-P ... p/tp05.htm This is the guage mount in the wife's truck: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-P ... -p/scp.htm The steering wheel mount is the easiest and simplest to install because you don't have to route the wires and lines up through the dash and to the A pillar. The A pillar gauges I think look a lot nicer and are easier to read if you have decent eye sight. LOL

Wow... LiveOak you really got into that post didn't you! LOL :thumbsup

Yeah.......I have been playing the fix the fuel pressure problem for almost 3 years. Figured I would pass along what I know that WORKS from personal experience so perhaps maybe someone else might benefit and NOT have to go through this EXPENSIVE process.

I wish I would of listem to most people out here soon and quit playing with Carter Campaign pumps and stock pumps... There completely garbage for a pump!

I wish I would of listem to most people out here soon and quit playing with Carter Campaign pumps and stock pumps... There completely garbage for a pump!

I did the exact same thing you did but I stock piled those BS campaign pumps at $60 a pop and bought 6. I am down to my last one now. They worked OK when they were working but you had to keep a close eye on them. The Vulcan big line kit was a great addition though.

A fuel pump from FASS called the DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pump) just became available late last year. I installed one in November on my 2001 HO. It is a gear rather than a vane pump like the originals and has a 4 year warranty. Mine delivers 18-20psi at idle. It also mounts to the factory bracket and the fuel fittings and power plug connect right up.

I'll be installing one of the FASS DDRP pumps on my truck next week...

Wish me luck.

- djb

I'm curious how it turns out and how it works... :thumbsup

Got the FASS DDRP installed tonight.

18 psi idling and 10-12 psi under "load." The only load I could get tonight was starting from low speed in high gear, then getting on it. I could get the pressure down to 10, but then it recovered to 12-14. Got a tall ship channel bridge to cross in the AM, will see if I can get it below 10 psi going up that.

- djb

Wow! That rather marginal... 8|

By marginal do you mean it's unimpressive performance for a new pump?

- djb

By marginal do you mean it's unimpressive performance for a new pump?

- djb

How about both... 8|

Minimum allowed fuel pressure by Cummins is 10 PSI... :wow

A pump that is up for the jobs doesn't drop more that 1-2 PSI... Pressure loss means the pump's ability to supply volume isn't enough to supply the demand...

Here is a good setup...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

In the table, what's the difference between engine "running" (10 psi) and "cranking" (7 psi)? Is "running" at idle? Does "cranking" mean under load (WOT)? As for an acceptable minimum pressure, I've read elsewhere that the VP44 fuel return line is set to release (return fuel) at 14 psi. If that's the case, would that mean there's no fuel being circulated when the supply pressure is less than 14 psi? If so, then shouldn't 14 psi be the minimum? A couple things I need to check is (1) the new fuel line between the LP and filter may be a tad too long which may put a kink in it, so it might need to be shortened, and (2) before I installed the new LP I know there was air in the line running to the pressure sending unit, but I never bled that line. It was late Tuesday evening when I got the install job done and I've not had time to look at it since... Prolly check those tomorrow. I wonder what increasing the fuel lines (i.e., Vulcan big line kit) would do for the FASS DDRP?- djb

Cranking is referring to while cranking the engine with the starter.

My truck doesn't crank long enough to get a pressure reading. When I hit the key, it starts! :thumbsup

edit: I see the cranking pressure reading can be obtained by removing the VP44 relay.

- djb

Yeap... Just did a short video of it last night...

Wanted to update my continuing fuel pressure prollem saga on this forum. On 27-Jan I installed a FASS DDRP. But a couple weeks after the install a problem developed - the fuel pressure was dropping with tank level, down to 8 psi. Then one day the pressure dropped down to nearly zero just cruising 55 MPH. I suspected a prollem in the stock draw system, so I babied it home, parked it, and ordered a Draw Straw II.When I dropped the fuel tank, I found the level float was disintegrating, and the stock draw system was caked with particles of disintegrated float. I replaced the sending unit (with float), and cleaned out the floating bucket as best I could. I also installed a Draw Straw II, but I wanted to have the stock draw system as a backup. Last night I finished installing the Draw Straw and a 3/8" line to the DDRP. And the truck passed the road test with flying colors! Fuel pressure now is 19-20 psi at idle, and the lowest I could get it down to was ~12 at WOT. So I'm a happy camper. :thumbsup The next test is to see how low I can draw the tank level before I start having fuel supply prollems. I'm carrying two 5-gal cans of diesel in the bed, gonna run it as low as I can.- djb