Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

Your pads have to be replaced as a set both sides at the same time! Are you replacing the caliper also? You might want to replace the brake fluid at this time as well. Myself I junked the factory rotors and bought a set of NAPA ultra premium brake rotors. The stock rotors were pitted and wrapped at 30K, I now have 84K on this set of rotors. When I replaced the rear pads I found them to be pitted also and they were replaced with the NAPA rotor as well. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=UBP880143_0129730924&An=599001+102004+50022+2022078+26346+4294945981

Sorry your NAPA link didn't hold up... (NAPA web site is known for this) Tell you the true if you can get your hand on a exhaust brake you'll get the mileage from your brakes. I'm at 181K miles and still never done a brake job. Rotors are in good condition not warped. Pads are wore down bout still very serviceable yet. I just might make it to 200K miles before doing a brake job. As for the stock caliper they are good design. Just that over time the brake fluid cakes up on the piston pucks and starts to bind up the pistons so the brakes drag. If you want to fix this problem it really cheap and easy. Just disassemble the calipers completely wash everything and blow dry all the parts. Replace your seals ($8 buck a piece from the dealer) Check your pucks for binding without seals in the caliper. If the piston falls to the bottom of the bore without pushing then the piston to bore is fine. But if it hangs up take some light sandpaper and sand the puck a little at a time you'll notice the brake fluid residue comes off. Once they fall to the bottom of the bore on there own you good... Just re-assemble them and bleed the system. Fresh rebuilt calipers for much less.

Yeh I think I could only get about 30k out of a good set of NAPA pads not even close to 180k. But as for the brake fluid what a brake tech told me is that the calipers are at the lowest point on the brake system and all the contaminates go to the lowest point he said that when you do a brake job clamp the brake hose and crack the bleeder and then push the piston back in. But also alot of the brake problems I see (sorry I manage a NAPA, so I see alot of problems) are slide pins sticking so make sure the caliper moves freely on the bracket you can lube it up but the tech said lube it with like syl-glide and wipe it back off so you dont need that much lube good luck:thumb1:

Yeh I think I could only get about 30k out of a good set of NAPA pads not even close to 180k. But as for the brake fluid what a brake tech told me is that the calipers are at the lowest point on the brake system and all the contaminates go to the lowest point he said that when you do a brake job clamp the brake hose and crack the bleeder and then push the piston back in. But also alot of the brake problems I see (sorry I manage a NAPA, so I see alot of problems) are slide pins sticking so make sure the caliper moves freely on the bracket you can lube it up but the tech said lube it with like syl-glide and wipe it back off so you dont need that much lube good luck:thumb1:

Yeah but like I found out this method doesn't work. Because now you've push the debris between the puck and the bore and it binds up. The only way to get the debris out really you just got to open the caliper and clean them. But when you got 100K miles on the caliper it not a bad idea to open them up and service them rather be safe than sorry... Got me there with the pins...

Well, I just checked my records and I've only got 13,500 (11/12/09) on my last brake job.New left rotorTurn right rotorNew padsNew synthetic fluidNew right caliperSo......it looks like I'll end up with 1 new rotor and hopefully just turn the other and a new caliper and new pads.I guess I'll have to check into the rebuild kit for the calipers but not this time, I need it up and running by Monday.

i am going to bury myself with all of regular maintnace guys here. i have 220k on my truck. i just put my 4th set of pads on the front while rebuilding the front end. still had a fair amount of wear left on the pads. just replaced them since i was in there. my rear pads are original. just about gone though. still have the original fluid. it is pretty ugly though. the whole point is if you are getting 13.5k out of a set of pads there is something wrong or you are getting pads not designed for a truck as heavy as you have. i'd check into that one. any way to sve a little face here, when i get back home i am going to replace my rear brakes and rebuild the calipers. while i am at it i will do the fronts too and bleed the whole system with NEW brake fluid.

dripley,My pads still look like new. The left caliper was sticking and left rotor metal on the pads for that side.If not for the caliper I wouldn't need need a new rotor,caliper, and pads. That's the luxury of owning something when chit happens and a $150 later.

Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor. I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads. So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

Unless there is an obvious design flaw always machine your rotors it is far cheaper and all the brakes need to function properly is a flat surface. There is no sense in replacing a perfectly good and meaty brake rotor for new one. Calipers are the biggest issue as is fluid. Rebuild the faulty caliper and replace and bleed the fluid and your brakes will keep you happy for years to come.

dripley, My pads still look like new. The left caliper was sticking and left rotor metal on the pads for that side. If not for the caliper I wouldn't need need a new rotor,caliper, and pads. That's the luxury of owning something when chit happens and a $150 later.

i have changed a few brake pads before. just never heard of rotor metal on the pads. i just bought a rebuild kit for my calipers and ther aint much to them. that will be one of my profects when i get home. only problem is i have 100days of projects and 7 days to get them done.

I did this when I first bought my truck. The previous owner had wore out the front brakes to the point that the disk ate into the caliper. Hard to buy a new caliper, rotor, and pads to get me going again. Now that I have the 17" rims on, I am planning on upgrading the front brakes to 2004 version, larger disks and pads.