I've decided how I'm going to run the harnesses for my XZT+ & the IAT fooler. The mechanic was fussing about "all the extra wiring" under my dash while they were working on it. (Too bad he did not call me because there was the Trailer brake box & the Escort remote radar detector system... neither of which connects to the engine.) Well, I took the knee panel out. I had left the harnesses long & just zip tied them up & out of the way. Since I know I still have to have the dash pulled for the heater & AC repairs, I figured I'd create some slack to work with. (snip, snip, snip... zip ties out)So I started to install the 2 toggle switches for the XZT+ & the IAT (mpg) fooler. I decided I'd rather not install them in the knee panel but rather behind it sticking through (making the knee panel easier to remove in the future. I spotted my locations, I ran a drill through, & clearanced the dash (plastic & steel) behind the knee panel. I made a mounting plate for the switches & screwed it in. The last thing before I was to quit for the day, I bored the holes for the switch necks through the knee panel. The larger one chewed up tearing the surface of the knee panel in an unsightly manner. My bad. I should have stepped the hole up more gradually. I don't know what I can to to improve the appearance. I usually keep going just a little too long... I should quit when I begin to get tired.

I usually do the same thing, just tighten it a little more:doh: now its broken:cry:. I would check the local junk yards for a new panel.

I tend to get "tunnel vision" at times... The idea to mount the switches behind the panel is a great idea that did not go well. Really a failure. So I'm going to mount them directly in the knee panel. I'm going to see if I can find a washer for the bunged up hole to try to salvage this knee panel... nothing to loose. (If it doesn't work, I start hitting up junk yards.)

To make this panel easier to remove, I'm going to leave plenty of slack in the wires. I'm going to tape & then chafe protect the cut edge of the steel dash (and the wires) so the harnesses should slide out easily. Plan on dropping the switches out when the panel comes off in the future. I want to get this settled & get under the hood.

edit

I decided to use the ugly knee panel for now, rather than stopping the project. I had to carve out the knee panel backer with my trusty dremel cutter so the switch necks would reach (another reason the rear mounted switches were a failure... ) Got that done & I used short pieces of electrical tape to wrap the sharp edges of the dash cut out then slipped a piece of 1" split loom over it. I followed the leads where I ran my remote mount radar detector (years ago now) & was able to cut the grommet to admit the IAT fooler harness I made up. I had a terrible time locating, reaching, unplugging, plugging into harness & sender with the IAT harness under the hood. I couldn't see well enough into the dark hole with the bright sun outside... I struggled to get my arm in the right place & my fingers to hold onto & plug the d@gn thing in. But I did finally succeed & quit for the day (my legs were shot anyway & hadn't forked anything up yet). I'm going to test continuity on the IAT before I solder the leads to the switch.

I did use force & violence to remove another hunk of firewall insulation... it was hanging down in my way... When I yanked it, a couple of acorns rolled out. Sadly, I have no choice but to continually remove moouse habitat every time I find it.

I tried & failed to get the plug for the XZT+ through that grommet first but there's another one nearby & I think that may be the answer. I the MAP sensor I need was right there while I was doing the IAT but I have not spotted the data link yet. Hopefully it'll not be too hard to reach.

further addition

Upon reflecting on the IAT fooler harness install yesterday, if I was starting from scratch I'd pay better attention to make the leads come out to exact equal length because we're cutting the leads it's an extra detail. I'd also Y the splice joint rather than Ting the way I did. It would just make the end product slicker & the final dressing of the harness neater. I ran the harness up & over the brake to the gromet to keep it safe. When I'm done, I'm going to slide split loom over it & zip tie it to the other harness on the cowel edge along with the XZT+ harness. The only thing left to do is solder the switch in... Already soldered the 2.2K resistor to the switch. So IAT fooler install is almost complete.

I will run the IAT fooler alone, first, before using the XZT+ so that I can ~scientifically separate the effects.

Russ

P1388 - Auto Shutdown Relay Control Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit. I finshed up the IAT fooler. I used the IAT extension harness from Caspers to make it up. 3 wires into the cab & a 2.2K resistor... never turned it on yet. I installed the XZT+ (plugs into MAP & back into harness, plugs into data link plug). Never turned it on yet either. It was pretty tough for me to get to the harness plugs, either see or feel. I seated the plugs until I heard the retainer click. (Note: I didn't have the CEL when I brought the truck home... fresh install on the AD system.) Could there be a problem there. I had to move the AD harness (excess coil) to get to the firewall. I can hear the AD kick in when I turn the key on. Ideas where to look?

ASD (Automatic Shut Down) Relay in is in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood. I would check and see if the relay is lose or corroded up..

OK, I found the ASD relay under the hood. No reason it should have been disturbed sitting in the middle of the electrical box. I tried to pull it but only succeeded in rocking it some. Turned the key on & the CEL was out! I can't imagine the relay does anything but pull straight up. Are these relays expensive (are they all the same on one truck... maybe I need a spare). I need to secure the wiring now & take it for a ride. Thanks, MikeRuss

rocking it could've removed any corrosion that may have started, creating a good connection...It does pull straight up, just tight as hell.