well this morning my check engine light came on so i cycled the key and came up with the P0122 and P01693 i know the 0122 code has to do with the TPS which would make sense as i was bugging moparman last night trying to trouble shoot my exhaust brake not working and started digging into the APPSi guess i could start by clearing the code and seeing if it comes back..correct? it may have thrown it when i was digging in the apps? or maybe i screwed something upalso.. mopar i forgot to mention maybe like 8 months ago i did have a dead pedal issue but i think it was a bad connection on my edge plug where it ties into the map sensor with the Y.this same time is also when it first started beeping the crazy speed warnings and it did it ALOT at that time i thought the edge was completely screwed up and i disconnected it to send it back and then decided to plug it back in to give it one more try and the dead pedal was gone...has worked ever since except once in awhile it yells at me that im doing 100+ mph when im doing like 30 maybe its not my edge though.... maybe its my ecm since the exhaust brake didnt work before the edge was put in and the wires all work properly except the red on going into the ecm

Ok... The P0122 code is from our testing last night so dis-regard the P0122 code because when you doing the voltage test with the APPS unplugged it trip that code. (Summary) Since we know the exhaust brake it triggered by a idle state of the APPS sensor it tells the ECM that the APPS is in idle state by grounding Pin 1 on the ECM this sets a timer in the ECM for about 3 seconds and then ground the pin for the exhaust brake causing it to enable. Cumminapart seems to have power and good connection on the exhaust brake wire but getting no trigger. His APPS is stock and the tag is .505 and measured a voltage of .3xx last night so it should show idle state ground. So where we stop was think of figuring out a way to trigger the exhaust brake without the ECM lead (Red Wire).

I think I would run my own ground wire and setup a switch of my own that trips when the APPS goes back to idle.

I think I would run my own ground wire and setup a switch of my own that trips when the APPS goes back to idle.

Great minds think alike... That was my parting conversation last night was use like a reed switch and place by the throttle arm so when the throttle is at a idle the exhaust brake would be set automatically. This would omit the ECM control. Now my problem is Jacob's Brake web site has now dump all their PDF documents on the Cummins exhaust brakes and can't seem to find a wiring diagram of it now... :banghead: I'm guessing the red lead to the ECM is going to be grounded to set the exhaust brake?

Great minds think alike... That was my parting conversation last night was use like a reed switch and place by the throttle arm so when the throttle is at a idle the exhaust brake would be set automatically. This would omit the ECM control. Now my problem is Jacob's Brake web site has now dump all their PDF documents on the Cummins exhaust brakes and can't seem to find a wiring diagram of it now... :banghead: I'm guessing the red lead to the ECM is going to be grounded to set the exhaust brake?

I would jumper that wire to ground with the engine running to see if the exhaust brake kicks on. Would definitely want to use a fused jumper wire incase there happens to be power there so you don't let the smoke out of something you can't put it back into. I'll dig around and see if I can find a diagram but that's what I would try without having a diagram.

ok i was kind of figuring that the 0122 came from the testing and will go away the check engine light was no longer on when i started up to drive back home nowafter getting back home both codes still there.. im assuming the 0122 will go away once the computer sees that everything is fine again a few timesthe 1693 code i believe came from me unplugging the wires that were left over from my old stock lift pumpwhile chasing wires last night i noticed them and decided to get them out of the waywhat i was thinking i might do is run the shift knob from geno's that has the switch built into it.. then i could run my wire into that and to ground rather than to ecmfirst i'll test to make sure that grounding the red wire actually makes the brake workalso.. with running my ground through a switch (so i would actually have two switches in order to activate the exhaust brake) could i just incorporate both the power and the ground into a double pole switch of course the downside to a system like this is that the brake wouldn't automatically disengage when i pressed the fuel pedal

well.... i tested my solenoid by straight connecting it to the battery.... it worksby completing ground bypassing the ecm it still didnt work.... i guess i didnt try touching the wire to the positive side of the battery but i decided why not just simply run my own wires straight to the solenoid and to the battery with a switch in between the power or ground side to complete the circuitfor added safety i could have a switch on both wires in order to not accidently hit the switch while cruising down the highway or something (cant imagine it being to good on things to hit the exhaust brake under throttle)

UPDATEim thinking maybe my solenoid is shot because though it clicks... thats all it ismaybe it should be louder?with the engine running and unplugging solenoid to go straight to the battery with two lead wires the exhaust brake doesnt kick in... the solenoid just clicksunless i just screwed it up by going straight to the battery :banghead:or maybe im dealing with a vacuum issue also?

It should be a 12 volt solenoid so you shouldn't have done anything to hurt it by going straight to the battery. I checked the wiring diagram for a 2001 Dodge CTD, there is no wire in the Cummins diagram for exhaust brake control in the Dodge pickup. If you are concerned you have a vacuum problem also I would tee a vacuum gauge into the line at or as close to the exhaust brake as I could to see what the vacuum is there.

ah good to know... i'll have to start checkin it out tomorrow as far as the vacuum goesmaybe its possible the exhaust brake its self has seized up from not moving for an extended period of time?it hasn't worked for at least 2 yrs... yes i know. why fix it now? because its there and it should work and my pads and rotors could last alot longer

Well I know the solenoid could be purchased at a Dodge dealer yet.

aah finally some results!!:ahhh:i took out the jb 80 because i was going to take out the bolts on the brake and have a look at it... ended up spraying it up and the little arm that the actuator connects to...then got this bright idea to try move that by hand... nothingso i took a hammer and a long piece of rod and carefully tapped it (straight as to not bend anything and lightly)it broke free and moved in but stayed there well i worked it back and forth a bit then fired up the truckstraight connected the solenoid to my battery and was quite surprised to see the thing actually suck in and start working !!! now i just gotta wire up some sort of system :hyper:however there still was an electrical problem....

Well you could just put a pull knob switch on the stick and pull it out when every you want it... It be up to you to use your head and remember to let go of throttle before pulling the knob. Running the truck with the exhaust brake on will cause extremely high EGT's and extremely low power...

yep i just picked myself up a push pull switch from the local hardware store for 16 buckswas going to run the switch knob from geno's which would look real nice but decided against it because 50 bucks isnt worth it to serve the same purpose.. i'll be running the normal system wiring except rather than routing the red wire to the ecm i'll route it through my switch on the shifter and then to the battery...when i start the truck i'll keep the rocker switch on and then use the shifter switch as neededfor some reason the truck seems to be running alot smoother now.. it seems highly doubtful that the brake would have been sticking in a partially closed position though probably just in my headalso is it supposed to make a sucking sound or am i leaking my vacuum when it engagesim thinking its normal.. mostly i hear this if i engage it at a lower rpm

yep i just picked myself up a push pull switch from the local hardware store for 16 bucks was going to run the switch knob from geno's which would look real nice but decided against it because 50 bucks isnt worth it to serve the same purpose.. i'll be running the normal system wiring except rather than routing the red wire to the ecm i'll route it through my switch on the shifter and then to the battery... when i start the truck i'll keep the rocker switch on and then use the shifter switch as needed for some reason the truck seems to be running alot smoother now.. it seems highly doubtful that the brake would have been sticking in a partially closed position though probably just in my head also is it supposed to make a sucking sound or am i leaking my vacuum when it engages im thinking its normal.. mostly i hear this if i engage it at a lower rpm

Hopfully you tested the red wire (ECM trigger) to ground? It's possible the valve was jammed partial close... As for the exhaust brake it shouldn't be making a sucking sound the diaphragm unit might be damaged.

my eb comes on at every cold start and you here the exhaust gas hissing as it blows by the butterfly. could that be the noise you are hearing?

i guess it could be the noise im hearingi really have nothing to compare toso mike your brake doesn't make any kind of hissing or sucking sound at lower rpms?i am getting a decent enough effect out of using it but i guess its not really what i was expecting...under idle conditions if i engage it and run around to look the actuator is sucked in as far as it can go but yet there is the hissing soundto me if the actuator is sucked in completely then the exhaust brake should be fully functioning and the hissing sound whether it's normal or not should be having no effect on how well the brake is workingalso i believe the white wire going from the back of the cigarette lighter to the switch is solely there as a means of providing power to light up the switch to show that the switch is in the ON position (my original thought was that this is where the solenoid got its power from)

next time you got it running with the brake on see if the hissing is coming out of the tailpipe. thats where i hear it the best though you can here it standing on the drivers side also. i have a banks brake on mine and it is the only eb i have ever had any experience with

Yeah typically they hiss out the tailpipe...

man what a road.. that looks awesome out theredefinitely thinking that i've got some unnecessary obnoxious hissing going on from somewhere under the hood... at higher rpms i dont really notice itthe backed up exhaust doesn't seem to be as loud as yours either mikeso maybe im getting more hissing less braking but maybe tomorrow i'll have time to try and check it out a little bit------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------well i was just browsing into the PAC brake install thread and it sounds like mine is working to full potential but i still think i've got a bit of a leak somewhere making the excessive hissing noise

my hiss is at the tail pipe though youcan hear it anywhere arond the truck when it is idling. i do not hear t he hiss when it is in operation at cruising rpms slowing down. no hissing from under the hood either.